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AK_Au_diver Offline 271 posts Reply |
I'm interested in doing a retrofit on my house, removing the T1-11 firing out the wall with 2x2s for the new wall using 4"x12" pieces of 1/2" plywood or board to keep regular spacing. Then I would blow in cellulose at 3.5 lbs/cu-ft. Then replace the T1-11. Framing out the windows somehow. The following articles describe what I'm interested in doing. As a retrofit, I'm interesting in using Insulweb as a way to help keep the cellulose in place while I blow in the cellulose, and to help ensure I get proper density in the cavity. Any ideas on where to get the Insulweb in Alaska? Any other suggestions? http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/SolarHomes/LarsenTruss/LarsenTrussPics.htm http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Conservation/MooneyWall/MooneyWall.htm |
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AK_Au_diver Offline 271 posts Reply |
Just a follow up, I found that Thermo-Kool of Alaska sells the insulweb mesh. They are not really a retail place, but will sell that, since no one else in the State carries it. http://www.thermo-koolofalaska.com/ I did find that it might have been better for my wall to just use 9' of mesh. My wall is a daylight basement (4') full story (8+') and gable (0' to 4'). Fur out the walls, then staple the mesh where the full story T1-11 goes, then replace the daylight basement and gable T1-11, then blow in the cellulose, then replace the full sheet T1-11. Saves on time, staples, and mesh; with the same result. |
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Jim_Alaska Offline 4394 posts Admin  Reply |
You might consider using blown in fiberglass instead of cellulose. The reason being that cellulose tends to settle and compact badly with time. fiberglass won't do that.
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AK_Au_diver Offline 271 posts Reply |
Dense pack cellulose doesn't settle when properly installed at 3.5lbs/cu-ft. Infiltration is also much less than fiberglass batts. I don't know about the infiltration of blow in fiberglass. I generally try to avoid fiberglass. Personal preference. As far as inexpensive DIY projects, with the proper tools and know-how, cellulose is better and safer. Ideally spray foam would be superior than either, but is much more expensive. |
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Fleng Offline 54 posts  Reply |
Neither fiberglass nor cellulose by itself will stop drafts. One nice thing about roll insulation is that you can staple it to your studs and form a vapor barrier. If you use R15 or better you can save lots in heating cost. I don't like using a whole lot of spray foam as it outgases formaldehyde a known carcinogen.
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