Jun 17 2010
I took friday off headed down early...
Was going to have a climb in Mitagong at Mt Gibraltor, there's a cool short 3 pitch 23 bolted on the granite walls... but when we stuck our heads over the lookout at 9.30am the icy windchill factor was enough to make us push on for Berry.
Didnt get to Thompsons pt untill sometime after11am,
and went straight to "Day at the Beach" 21, classic warm up...
After the tick, me and Piper went and played in the Grease Cave...
Jase made up a new line "blowing on the kitten" as he had intended to do "blowing on the ceiling", but somehow crossed the lines with "sex kitten"... it's prob about a long 27 roof anyway...
I had 2 shots at "Inflatey Katey" 26, a short bouldery roof climb. I now have some killer beta for the crux sequence but no tick, from ledge big reach, dropping into an undercling, heaps of body tention, a heel hook then toe hook at the arete, then changing it to a heal/toe cam, and several cross overs later getting back to good holds and body position... so next time im in the cave should be doable.
Retired back to the pub, and finaly the beach house at culburra for recovery.
Day 2, had a bigger crew together and headed out to Rosies and Cheesedale...
I climbed with Shaz & Dools mostly...
Warmed up on a few good 19's which Dools ticked, and I ticked a nice 23 wall climb 'jock itch' up a nice orange section of cliff. It wondered a fair bit, and was fairly crimpy, but the odd good break allowed for recovery.
Then we marched round to cheesedale, and I onsighted "uncertanty pleasure", and awsome 22 roof that was very long and pumpy (aprox 14m of roofing). Dools made it to the 1st set of anchors and clipped, but was too trashed to put together the last 5m of upside down jugging.
Shaz struggled a bit with reach, made it out to the 1st anchors with a rest for her head... then i topropped and cleaned...
all up a good day of cranking, and enough juice left in the tank for the next day which was...
Sunday, Thompsons Point...
Wamed up on Korca 18 with Dools & Mel. Classic wallclimb and arete.
Then a 2nd warmup at pocketwall, on the 20 Je Baise Ma Fraigne ... which Dools didnt find much of a warmup, more of a project!!
Anyway, then I volunteered to get back the draws from "the Hustler", which basically blasts off into outerspace up the righ hand side of pocket wall near electro rooter, then follows a juggy roof flake back accross the wall for about 8m, then straight back out thru the main roof of pocket wall for another 8m, then gets a rest in a cave at the headwall... then a few hard moves and another cave rest, then a few more hard moves b4 the anchor a third of the way up the awsome headwall.... 30m of climbing, half of that thru a roof and it only gets 24...
Anyway, by now Dools had had enough of falling off the 20, and was reminded of last nowra trip the call he had made to lead "mosquito slap and put the draws on!!", so off he went well outside his comfort zone, but put in a huge effort for the tick l8tr in the day...
Meanwhile I had joined in the fun seiging "butts of beef" 25, left side of pocket wall, out thru the steep bulge and almost non stop bouldering to the top...
My 1st redpoint I almost ticked, but didnt put the last sequence of moves together, and my 2nd redpoint (3rd burn), i stuffed the 1st crux so have another proj to do at thommos...
Cooled down on Meaty Mesmo, linked into top of Murdoch 22...
Usual recovery shenaniganes took place, mostly in the form of chinese banquet food at the local bowling club, a few too many beers and wines, and a few hrs of random climbing vids.
4th day on was at Highlands lookout, which has a real adventure feel to it... 30m walls and slabs a plenty, more lines than u can poke a stickclip at, and just really cool climbing...
Warmed up on "the establishment" an easy 21 jug haul up an overhanging arete.
Dools played on some easier wall climbs... and a bit later on belayed me on a tough 21 "busted-arse ol coot", basically 30m of crimping almost every move grade 20+, but it was a great climb, and no stopper move, just made u think alot...
Then Bundy chucked me on an even more sandbagged? 23 "piggy in the middle", which spat me off the last few moves (a crazy sequence that i could not work out, throwing a heel up over a the steep top section, and somehow getting an undercling layback... then even if u could do that reachy as all hell to get to the anchor...)
Finished up in the cave working a m8's proj, a rad 10m steep bouldery climb... I recon it's only 25 and that I could get it next time... all in all a fun trip!!
Jun 17 2010
Nice picture... I ticked the project that has the draws on to right of your picture
Lap dance for a lazy libido.. grade wise soft 25 or hard 24
Looks awesome in the sun and this cave is going to be super fun
Someone else threw themselves at the project today and still a project he climbs quiet hard so grade is undetermined
Jun 18 2010
When I had a play on "Lap dance for a lazy libido", I'd think hard 24 is a fair grade as it's a short bouldery climb.
Haha, I'm prob heading down to grotto 2moz, so dont think i will get back on the proj for a while...
Jun 18 2010
This is starting to get fun...
New rules are if you onsight it, you get to keep the money at the bottom
Jun 21 2010
Nah dude. There must be $30 down there now. Enuf for 2 new classics in the cave.
Jun 21 2010
I will use the cash to bolt a line right of John's Project, which is right of my project but to the left of Willz project and this can be your project....
Sooo you can project this while i project my project next to the project i just finished projecting...
Jun 21 2010
Sweet, lets hope there is a few more $$ there after this weekend.
Jun 21 2010
went back to Nowra last saturday super good conditions for the grotto, temps were low all day!!
warm up was a mega classic 18 - depleted gonad circumference, a rad exciting arete that starts high off a ramp...
then did word on a wing 21 face climb next to it, that has 1 v solid move for the grade, undercling to match a pretty bad slope then a fair big move of that hold to higherground.
next was metail rain 25m 24, with sustained sharp thin crimps all the way thru to the crux at 2/3 height where the slab turns steep and u have a long move off crimps to a crimp dish, left hand crimps and right hand crosses thru for a side pull, then a long move to another crimp and move off this and a few more moves it's a easier territory to the top. flashed this!! and it was still only about 11am, and fingers were just thawing out...
asked Willis if he wanted the draws on anything, 'belgium tourist' 25m 24 if ur keen...
anyway, really cool sequence and moves on great rock upto a tough crux at about 2/3 height... small crimping at the top of a flake and u end up on opposing crimps and highstep a left foot, bump lefthand into and undercling, step right foot up on flake, then if ur still on bring ur right hand onto the sloper, then grab the jug and clip... should be able to get to the top from here.
took 2 falls to unlock the beta and 10mins of recovery on the rope, but i sent it 1st redpoint attempt...
Willis ticked, bundy had an epic, and we bailed early to get back for the rugby.
prob go back to the grotto again saturday as nowra season is on!! rock out!!
Jun 23 2010
All those climbs at the Grotto are fantastic...enjoy