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LGJ 11:53:44 Thu Sep 21 2006 |
Lets compare: Orca is a *** 18, Korca is a **18 starting 2mR of Orca, and they join up 10m or so up the arete. Orcas first flip is a carrot bolt I'd say a full 5m up from a 1m wide ledge. If you were climbing Korca, you'd have clipped TWO ring bolts before you even got to the height of Orca's first bolt. From there, it's run out enough that if you fell from the next clip (which is the ring bolt on the arete where the route joins back with Korca) I RECKON it would be a ground fall - or maybe if you jumped out you'd fall into the space off the ledge! I climbed it like this- I headed up Korca clipping it's first two bolts, then reached out and clipped Orca's carrot, then lowered down and unclipped the first draw from Korca. This way I was protected at the start and thouroughly enjoyed it. Heading past the first bolt, I chose to stretch right out and clip the ring bolt on Korca before the next Orca ring bolt, because I thought it was too run out. Yeah they were basic moves on jugs to get up to the next one but... What are peoples thoughts? Yeah you could always say i'm soft cock, but in relative terms it didn't seem right. I mean, 3 star classic 18's at Nowra are highly travelled right? How come Orca has such a run out first clip? To compar, what about samurai pizza cats being retrobolted with rings, from carrots? Maybe in the bluies or somehwhere a route bolted like Orca may be common place, but I think that an extra carrot at the start, and maybe even one in between the current one and the ring on the arete would be a good thing. Not that I'm volunteering, it's an 8hr drive for me =) |
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Nick_Kaz 12:31:43 Thu Sep 21 2006 |
On the one hand it is comparitivly easy climbing up the runout bit and once you clip the bolt on the arette its all fine so leave it as it is, on the otherhand it's not in character with the other routes in the area so retro it. But does the character of route around it need to be concidered, it gets plenty of action as it is and there is always the option of doing it your way? If someone does go all retro bolty around there why not throw a few in the 24 corner to the left, from what I have herd its smashing but it doesn't get climbed because you need a rack, im all for wigglies but getting a second is going to be a hardie! |
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Cragx 22:02:55 Thu Sep 21 2006 |
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Nick_Kaz 22:41:17 Thu Sep 21 2006 |
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Cragx 00:02:56 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
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Ashy 00:28:45 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
Nowadays, no one but the odd confused Mexican lugs trad to the crag so I totally agree that Orca needs to be rebolted, just make sure you get the FA's permission (Ant Prehn). Another climb that could do with another bolt is Psycho Hose Beast on Mortein Wall, there's a very long runout between the 2nd & 3rd bolt, which is supposed to be protected by a cam. |
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bundybear 00:47:59 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
If you supply some $$ for new bolts, I will check with the FA and replace the carrots and add extra bolt(s). What do you think ? Click here ==> http://www.climbinganchors.com/Donate.htm |
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Cragx 01:04:49 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
Bundy get some bolts off Hawkman from my stash and he can take em off my bill. |
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shawkshaw 01:20:16 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
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LGJ 02:08:55 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
I'd be willing to donate if it's needed. I've still got to pay the balance for my double ropes when they arrive, so I can add a few bucks on top of that if you want Steve. The doubles are of course for the next time at Nowra - have to remember to take the trad rack too...! (actually the first time i was down there one party member lugged the rack over in the canoe just to climb Barbie Twins - maybe not worth the effort for one climb only but it's a pretty nice climb!) |
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bundybear 02:36:19 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
I could complete on the long weekend. Is there enough in the Kitty ?? |
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shawkshaw 02:58:26 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
girls in the hood is no prob though |
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oldandbroken 04:14:28 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
Appology for Pleasure: Fiirst climbed by Mike Ellims, later recleaned and had bolts/pins? added by the later claiming first ascentionist. Still Life in a Chalk Bag: Lower part ringed and a lower off anchor whacked in on the ledge. Killer Boas: Fully bolted and an anchor put in a body length below the tree on the sandy ledge. Broken and Barbed: Originally on carrots and friends to the top. To my knowledge none of these progressions to the routes character and style was ever forwarded or asked of the first ascentionist. Now I have opened my mouth one of you should hit me for some $ for your fund. These are examples. |
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shawkshaw 04:53:31 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
by the way i believe the anchors on turn your eyes insane were renewed last year.. |
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oldandbroken 05:12:08 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
Who put new anchors in Turn Your Eyes Insane? C0nts. People keep doing this stuff and climbing might end up fun! |
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oldandbroken 05:13:35 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
Who put new anchors in Turn Your Eyes Insane? C0nts. People keep doing this stuff and climbing might end up fun! That long since I did Orca I dont have an opinion. I do believe first ascenionists dont own the crag. |
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Cragx 05:32:27 Fri Sep 22 2006 |
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