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4 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 4 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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rogerb 11:30:37 Sun Jul 1 2007 Offline 151 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Does anbody know who's is the "project" at Heathcliff shown on the phototopo in the new guidebook (up the black streak. Route #12 if I remember correctly)? It appears to have not been bolted at all (and its not a trad line). Does anybody think that a rap bolt in the top of a cliff constitutes a project? I dont, but I'm prepared (for a short time) to listen to argument.
There seem to be a quite few new ring bolted routes here that are not in the new guide. |
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julianA 22:48:04 Sun Jul 1 2007 Offline 13 posts Outdoor Bumbly Reply |
I think it's fair game Roger.
Maybe Ivan scribbled it in as something he wanted to do, but never got round to it ? |
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ivanv 08:33:42 Mon Jul 2 2007 Offline 2 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Hi there Roger and Julian,
I have put up the new routes in Heathcliffe that aren't in the guide. I have put bolts at the top of the cliff the whole way along, as I have been down the lines and drilled holes for rebelays for bolting. We have done alot of work installing rap bolts and have top roped the lines.Some of the lines are fully drilled and just require me to find the time and money to complete them. Time is presently a challenge for me as I have a new baby and find it hard to get time to climb, let alone bolting! However I was there today and managed to install the bolts on another line. I will be finishing as soon as possible and am happy to discuss the routes that I am working on to complete, Ivan |
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rogerb 11:19:57 Mon Jul 2 2007 Offline 151 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Hi Ivan
Maybe you can say what lines you are interested in and are definitely going to bolt in the very near fiuture. I rapped off two carrots about 10m left (facing cliff) of the long black streak marked as "project" in the book. BTW. You are not the only bolter with kids and a shortage of money. Cheers Roger |
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ivanv 09:56:01 Tue Jul 3 2007 Offline 2 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Hi Roger,Have drilled all holes and belays for the route at the extreme left end of the cliff (facing cliff) near a crack in the lower terrace.Hope to do this one next and soon.The black streak route starts up the prominant flake pinacle on the tier above the walking track.cheers ivan
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rogerb 12:07:20 Tue Jul 3 2007 Offline 151 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Cool. Thanks Ivan. There doesnt seem to be any conflict of interest then. I like to look of the routes you've done so far. Cheers, Roger.
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tnd 13:47:53 Thu Jul 12 2007 Offline 61 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Hey Roger, get back to Boyce you troublemaker.
Congrats on the bub Ivan. Just spent five days in Norway, only got one day's climbing due to rain, leaving me a lot of time to drink beer at $11 per half-litre. I'm in the UK and poor now as well... Niall |
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DODmister 10:49:23 Tue Jul 17 2007 Offline 1071 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Mood Now:  Post Mood:  Reply |
oh dear....another Norweign horror story.
looks like you just have to go their for chicks and pingers! |
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chris_coghill 10:22:49 Wed Jul 18 2007 Offline 278 posts Onsight Specialist Reply |
Hey, we went for a walk around there today.... nice work guys, this crag looks great! Better get in and bolt all the goodies before the word gets out!!!
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rogerb 12:11:04 Wed Jul 18 2007 Offline 151 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Nah! It's crap really. Either totally blank or cheesy white muck. Ivan and Glenn Short have bolted everything that isn't minus 2 stars.
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rogerb 03:16:18 Tue Sep 4 2007 Offline 151 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Hey Chris. I heard you went to try the new route at Heathcliff. It took Ducko and I about 100 attempts to work out how to get over the first bulge. Did you enjoy the last move and clipping the anchors? |
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chris_coghill 07:49:35 Tue Sep 4 2007 Offline 278 posts Onsight Specialist Reply |
Nice one rog! I ended up pulling on the first draw!... missed the pocket, but still hard. Got very scared climbing up to the next ring after unclipping the first draw from above and not having a bolt plate on me, but then really enjoyed it until I realized that I had to do a nasty mantle to the anchors!!
I think the whole cliff heard me calling out ..... "That bloody sneaky bastard..." just before I finally got the courage to climb up to the anchors! Great route though. Lots of very funky rock and lots of nice air! I think you definitely need to bolt yourself a proj at the Farside.... I've convinced Loyd to bolt one, and Andy and I need some more belayers. It's going to take us the next 10 years to get up our projects. |
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rogerb 08:14:25 Tue Sep 4 2007 Offline 151 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Glad you got a bit of excitement Chris. Sorry if you thought I was being stingey putting a carrot in there but it seemed OTT to put a U in for a grade 10 slab (plus the battery was running down). You are supposed to just put the tape of a draw on the carrot if you dont have a bolt plate.
The way to do the start is to ignore the letterboxes. |
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chris_coghill 12:55:15 Tue Sep 4 2007 Offline 278 posts Onsight Specialist Reply |
Thanks rog... maybe we've got to kick Ivan into action to finish his line out there... the wall just right of the black streak looks great.
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adski 13:48:08 Tue Sep 4 2007 Unavailable 187 posts Flash Specialist Mood Now:  Post Mood: Reply |
You paint a pretty picture Dr C
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rogerb 22:39:22 Tue Sep 4 2007 Offline 151 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
The black streak "project" looked kind of blank to me. More suitable for mike law than ivan?
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Fool_in_the_Rain 22:59:08 Tue Sep 4 2007 Offline 36 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
Dunno if Ivan's doing anything. Including answering emails.
Went to Boyce to have a look at one of his new sports routes; 'Little Jonny'. All I could see was one carrot about 2 metres up. No visible hangers or rings. Is it a mixed routes or just another unfinished project? Also some friends had a look at Shorties route 'Boadicea' and backed off the start which seemed very stiff for 15. Anybody else been on it? m. |
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rogerb 05:54:21 Wed Sep 5 2007 Offline 151 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Is little johnny the route on the arete right of Goldstar? That has several carrots (and was originally done with less carrots by Glenn Robins). In which case Little Research might be a better name.
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Fool_in_the_Rain 21:13:37 Wed Sep 5 2007 Offline 36 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
No Roger.
That sounds like 'My Mate Matey' which I haven't looked at. Little Jonny is further left (or at least should be) and should start 'as for pitch 1 of VHRD/Thruxton/Velocete. Standing at the base of Thruxton (which looks nice) I could seen one carrot on the slab a couple of metres off the deck. In the new guide it reads 'up slab and arete past 9 bolts to join last bolt on Air2Spare'. However the hieght is only supposed to be 30m, and considering it starts BELOW Air2Spare, which is supposedly 35m.. it just doesn't quite add up. m. m. |
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rogerb 23:44:32 Wed Sep 5 2007 Offline 151 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Maybe you are supposed to rap in as for air2spare? (Despite the "start as for VHRD" etc.). This is another area where there are very old carrots. I kept away from it when bolting A2S because I'm one of those old farts that believes in retaining some history. Whatever "new" crag or line you think you've found there's always that curly white haired man who's been there before. All you ever do is bolt things he never got round to, or worse still, he tells you it was done 20 years ago. More people should consult him before getting excited about a new discovery.
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Glenn_Short 08:50:35 Sat Sep 8 2007 Offline 48 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
Hey, That's no way to pick on Crunch!
G. |
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Glenn_Short 06:59:39 Sun Sep 9 2007 Offline 48 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
Ahh, Foolish:
Boadicea wasn't finished when the guide went to press but somehow it made it in, anyway. The start might be 20??? But only for a few moves then it is about 14/15/16?? Bolts all the way. I put the first bolts close together so anybody wanting to use it to exit the crag with a pack can just pull up on them and cruise to the top. The 2nd pitch up the arete is only about 12?? Nicely airy. Did it with Warwick Williams. Not great rock but nice positions, lots of air. The variant top pitch out right is realllllllyyyyyy easy, but I must have had a meltdown on the jumars, many many bolts. Need to go back and remove a few. Not classics, but I liked them anyway. g. |
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Fool_in_the_Rain 07:16:24 Mon Sep 10 2007 Offline 36 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
Cheers Glen.
You're not the first new router that I've talked too who's admitted to uncompleted routes in the new guide. I guess we should just all take grades and descriptions with a pinch of salt. So what grade is the 'really easy' variant pich to Boadicea? m. |
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Glenn_Short 14:12:51 Mon Sep 10 2007 Offline 48 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
G'day Fool!! (gotta get me one of these fancy internet names!!)
I'm embarassed to say about 12-13??? When I rapped in I had to redirect a fair bit and thought it looked harder, must have been suffering from the heat, 'cause the bolts looked spaced out further, too. Warwick and I went to do it expecting a 19/20!!! Still, a fun day out. Don't pull too hard on some of it! Good to see the guide is already out of date and Roger is maintaining his 70s sandbagging stylin'! Next he'll grow a porno moustache and start wearing tank tops (again). G. |
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Fool_in_the_Rain 07:10:47 Tue Sep 11 2007 Offline 36 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
Hasn't Warwick got a porno mo'?
We should all grow one. Here's my attempt. |
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