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chris_coghill
09:27:51 Mon
Feb 27 2006

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Onsight Specialist

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Re: Zig Zag

I agree... fantastic bit of history!

  
Glenn_Short
09:57:02 Mon
Feb 27 2006

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Outdoor Climber

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Re: Zig Zag

Mark Ashmore,

What's with you and the chipping suspicions?? Splat Matt told me you reckoned I chipped ALL those routes at Medlow - The bloody thing would have fallen on me if I removed any more rock than fell off it!! (Pam does, however, have a great photo of me in a cloud of dust wielding a broom! Ok, they're not classics, I admit.) Take another look at the route next to 327 - it's a very unlikely little edge, obviously not enhanced. A pox on you and your chickens!

327 is written up as being exactly halfway between where I did the newish route (Mr. Poopypants 19/20???) There is a bolt hole there and a tree - I'm sure you have a tapemeasure on your boltboy utility belt, go and measure it - I did. Everybody I spoke to thought the route went up there. (a reasonable assumption, I reckon) the rest of the route goes nowhere near 327 - the old pin and the crack above shows where it goes. Unfortunately I eventually tracked Wilbur down over another atrocity I committed and sorted it out.

Turns out Greg Mortimer climbed it where I put the new start. Sans gear. they didn't use the tree (which is now dead). Pretty amazing lead, if you try it with no bolts and no gear. Greg checked it, and agreed he did it there. I offered to remove the bolts, they said to leave them. Something about it's nice to be able to climb extra routes. Very civilized, very sensible, ethically compromised yet somehow wholesome. Wilbur and Greg still speak to me and Wilbur even has offered to buy me a Wuzukstani old at the Mt. Vic pub.

I think it's quite nice and am glad that there was no hassle over it.

Which brings me back to my point - we get to climb because people put up new routes. We all depend on it. In return, we normally respect other people's efforts, even if we don't agree with their methods. Disregard this and the goodwill goes out the window - the boltchopping starts and that is always bad. Anyone who doesn't think so either hasn't been climbing long or has a short memory.

Bundy - Don't listen to that wussy sport-climbing foo-foo of a girly-man. How can you trust a man who posts to this site? Dinner plates?? He's never been to Narrow Neck. Chester and Jean is a fun outing. Take a set of cams, there are biners on the ledge so you can rap off after pitch 2 if you want. The crux is only short but steep with FHs and the rest easy climbing (15?/17?)Lots of bolts, too. Will clean up with more ascents.

I'm off to chip some wire placements at Wave Wall.

G.








  
Ashy
22:47:09 Mon
Feb 27 2006

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Lead Climber

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Re: Zig Zag

Hi Glenn,

Its definitely good to have your contributions and a decent discussion on the forum, much better than the usual mindless chatter that goes on here, but your not supposed to use my real name, you’ve blown my cover. We all like to hide behind our aliases so we can make outrageous statements and not be held accountable.

Anyway here are a couple of points in reply to your post.

1) Chipping at Medlow Bath.
Actually I never minded this little area and I guess you, Pam, Paula and me are probably the only ones that have done most of the routes there. With regards to the chipping, I am sure you remember when I did the harder 22/23 climb in the middle I asked you at the time had the unusual pocket at the crux been enhanced. You said no, that answered my question … end of story. So I am afraid Matt must have miss interpreted any comments I made to him. All the other climbs there are relatively easy and have holds all over the place, so no I never questioned any of them.

2) Chipped first hold on Mr. Poopypants.
Like you said it’s a very unusual hold. A large blunt, rounded featureless flake with only one hold at a convenient height that is discoloured compared to the surrounding rock. It does look suspicious and it was actually my climbing partner on the day that made the comment “Hello, hello, what’s been going on here”. I think a lot of people who see that hold may question its origin, anyway I asked the question (provocatively I must agree) and you have provided the answer, it’s a naturally occurring rock scar … end of story.

3) Mr. Poopypants vs Fashion TV
I did Mr. Poopypants and it was not to bad. A little runout at the top for me, but you described me as a "wussy sport-climbing foo-foo of a girly-man". I am comfortable with that description ... I couldn't agree more.

My whole point regarding this climb was to highlight what appeared to be double standards. In both instances we have climbs that have encroached upon and altered the protection available on an existing climb. In the instance of Mr Poopypants the consensus was “no harm done, nice to be able to climb extra routes” and yet in the instance of Fashion TV those responsible are considered irresponsible retro bolting scum. They get no pat on the back for rebolting 2 old dilapidated routes, no "nice to able to climb extra routes" for them, no, the consensus is lets just run them out of town.

I also totally agree with some of your other comments, we do only get to climb as a result of the work put in by others, most climbers contribute very little if nothing to the climbing community and I find it very disappointing when those who do try to contribute are shot down in flames. Undoubtedly more consultation regarding Fashion TV should have occurred and hopefully we have all learnt a lesson from this incident and we will be a little more considerate when putting up new routes or rebolting, but there will always be grey areas and mistakes will be made. Given the rebolting and new routes that have gone up at Zig Zag I would recommend it to those as a good alternative to Bardens and the Mt York Mezzaluna areas.

4) Chester and Jean
I love you like a brother Glenn, but I just can't bring myself to recommend that route. Perhaps Bundy should do it and give us an unbiased 3rd opinion.

Cheers ... and keep up the good work.

PS: Please don't wish a pox upon my chickens, I am very worried with all of this talk about bird flu as it is.

  
bundybear
23:24:28 Mon
Feb 27 2006

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Net addict - someone take me climbing


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Re: Zig Zag

4. Chester and Jean.

Oh well. Looks like I will have to give it shot. Now just need to find someone to climb it with.

.. Back to ZZ.

Is there any climbs, or has anyone looked or touched the nice orange overhanging wall under 4X bouldering area. It looks so Gold - but quite hard. I was thinking about bolting some routes down there, but now I am bit concerned. What should I do ??

I thought I better check with Bolting Police 1st !! HELP...

  
bundybear
23:33:55 Mon
Feb 27 2006

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Reply
Re: Zig Zag

Here is a piccy of the area discussed.




[ Attached File: ZigZagSuperPumpSector.jpg - downloaded 35 times]
  
jungle_jim
02:47:14 Tue
Feb 28 2006

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14 posts
Outdoor Bumbly

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Re: Zig Zag

oooohh!! Ashy honey everythings ok. I just got my green shoes on today and there tellin me the land needs some healin. Dont destroy the earth is what there tellin me, and its not me you will have to answer to so pilling shit on me does you no good.. Its nice to see the lovely ferns at the bottom of Firebug enjoying a dose of growth.. Lots of love Jungle Jim xx

  
madtaffy
06:38:15 Tue
Feb 28 2006

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467 posts
Gym Bunny Spray Lord

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Re: Zig Zag

I couldn't find "the tree" as described in the route description of 327! Did it fall out? I saw the old pin so I guess that's where the climb once went. I think 327 is an archived climb now the new route is there. It probably never had many ascents anyway so not much lost there. Hard men can always use the bolted cairn start and follow the line up through the pin placement.
Make it Nylons can still be done without the aid of the bolts.
If I got run out of town the Mt Vic pub would go broke.

  
chris_coghill
07:34:06 Tue
Feb 28 2006

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278 posts
Onsight Specialist

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Re: Zig Zag

Hey Bundy-have you walked to the base of that wall....unfortunately quite a lot of choss and unpassable blankness at the start, and routes would be difficult to get going, though there's allways the "Boronia" option..... 8 routes, one start!!

  
bundybear
08:49:19 Tue
Feb 28 2006

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Re: Zig Zag

Yeah Chris. I did have a look, and yep maybe they would all start from the same spot in the corner. Some would go straight up, and all the other just traverse further to the right then up. But the wall just looks so good, and the rock all looks good as well. Maybe the shipley option and climb a pole to the start of the climb...

I dont know, maybe its all just too hard !

Hey Tony, Did you guys check this out ?

  
jungle_jim
09:49:25 Tue
Feb 28 2006

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Outdoor Bumbly

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Re: Zig Zag

yer, i dont want to get into argumizing about bolts but i have an opinion. it ties in with more general belief patterns and issues. but i dont have to voice them here. just say that two bolts on a wall, one was short, one was tall, one was put in well the other had a bad smell. i dont know who put up browntown, i stumblecd on the area whilst on discovery mission. the area is one of my favorites. i learnt later thro friends that the place is called browntown. i havnt read tjhe guide on the spot. but there is one root that doesnt look done. natural gear and obvious line. probly the pick, i think there is a couple of routes there. anyway im gunna clean it up a bit and leave sometyhin that decent

  
Cragx
20:23:16 Tue
Feb 28 2006

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Mood Now: Jamming
Post Mood: Jamming

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Re: Zig Zag

You want to borrow my drill Jungle Jim :smile:

  
madtaffy
20:23:41 Tue
Feb 28 2006

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467 posts
Gym Bunny Spray Lord

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Re: Zig Zag

That crack at the far left of Browntown looks good-go for it Jungle Jim. Some fossil will probably have claimed the FA 30 years ago but never wrote it up. I haven't been to Browntown since a whole ledge collapsed on me a few years ago.

  
jungle_jim
01:57:44 Thu
Mar 2 2006

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Outdoor Bumbly

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Re: Zig Zag

yer, um theres now a decent reason for checkin out Browntown, well almost. i just got to throw in a couple bolts and chip a couple holds to get past a couple hard bits and it should go around 12M2... left of the first ring about waist height off the ground, stick clip the next bolt, then traverse left on a couple nicelly created jambs and clip the forth bolt on the next route...............
Um yer sorry actually theres really is a decent reason for checkin tthe place out. just gimme couple days.

  
bundybear
08:34:41 Thu
Mar 2 2006

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Net addict - someone take me climbing


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Re: Zig Zag

Is Jungle Jim DOD's mate ??

  
jungle_jim
06:28:01 Mon
Mar 6 2006

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14 posts
Outdoor Bumbly

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Re: Zig Zag

nope dont know DOD.
now i know you been waitin for this with baited breath, so it gives me great pleasure to give you new climb at Browntown. called To Cool For School. grade 16 start down from the fixed rope bout 15m at obvious line. boulder start into flake then ledge then all the way with laybackin, bridgin and chimney.bomber pro, classic climin up to ledge. maybe i might put a couple bolts here for the perfect belay... move up a bit higher then out left up cleft then up wall past bolt hole on good rock, great position. take a couple big cams( blue camalot) for belay. Jungle jim, G Banger March 06. take your own bolt for second pitch as i was thinkin of intensifying bolting debate by askin for second opinion just in case my judgment aint so good. if any one could be f--kd gettin out there and doin it send us some feedback. i think it some good stuff..Now i need to ask Crag x to borrow drill to finish obvious line up from ledge. its abit harder. the route is tagged,(well i didnt put a tag on it but you know wat i mean) i just goin to the bungles for couple days...

  
Cragx
06:53:48 Mon
Mar 6 2006

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Mood Now: Jamming
Post Mood: Jamming

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Re: Zig Zag

nice work Jungle, bundy is always up there, grab his drill he puts up nothing useful with it...I dont leave the sydney basin ...I would get altitude sickness.

  
Chris_Y
05:23:23 Mon
Apr 3 2006

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102 posts
Flash Specialist

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Re: Zig Zag

Had a lovely day at Zig Zag yesterday, partly to check out some of the new developments for myself and because its a fantastic warm sunny crag for those colder days.
Anyway, there appear to be even more developments to those that have been mentioned through this thread... perhaps its time for a Zig Zag update or mini guide???

New route (white initials ZO or 20?) on the back of the Ethel Ard block. Rings to lower off. Or is this just a re-bolted version of Just Go For It????

New route between upper section of Toads and Giggles. Obiously starts as for Giggles then heads up wall above break between Toads and Giggles (carrots, FH's and cams up to Giggles rap point)? Name / Grade.
This one may cop some flack as it seems a bit squezed in!

Its been in a while but what is the new route on rings that goes up the buttress between Groovy and Possession? Rings all the way up thin wall to tough looking roof then headwall etc. Name / Grade??

Also it's nice to see some new carrots in Dress Rehersal Rag and a new 2 bolt belay

Happy Crankin!


  
bundybear
23:32:12 Mon
Apr 3 2006

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Net addict - someone take me climbing


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Re: Zig Zag

Hey Chris,

I think these details can be downloaded from the Sydney Rockies site.

Bundy

  
Chris_Y
23:50:53 Mon
Apr 3 2006

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102 posts
Flash Specialist

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Re: Zig Zag

Bundy,

All of these things are far more recent than Rob and Ivan's routes. The route sandwiched between Toads and Giggles has apparently only been in about a month!
You locals should be keeping an eye on developments down there!

Chris

  
bundybear
01:04:31 Tue
Apr 4 2006

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Net addict - someone take me climbing


Reply
Re: Zig Zag

I have not been down there for ages. Maybe "Stumpy Ed" has been drilling agin...

  
madtaffy
13:34:34 Fri
Apr 7 2006

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467 posts
Gym Bunny Spray Lord

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Re: Zig Zag

Ever since The Stumps and me had a bit of a falling out cos he brpught a dicksplash from the gym(steroid drug abusing gym) who had no previous abseiling experience, no climbing experience(ever), no belay/abseiling device, no climbing shoes at the top of a rap in?!and sttooopid ED had a 40m rope for a day at Mt Boyce and got a bit upset when I told him to F#$K OFF YTOU ARE A CHEEKY c... because if I wanted to go guiding for the day I would have got a day's paid wage. The little wanker F#$Ked off quick smart and avoided the mad taff challenge outside the boozer on the same night. Mate That's his retrobolted Simo Carter death route from way back. Stumps is an Olympic wrestler/ex army killer.....I think he's a gay pussy. Bring it on Stumps! Any Time

  

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