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3 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 3 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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The_Katana_Kid 07:10:19 Thu Nov 17 2005 Offline 110 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
I think its up to however invests the time and money on creating the route. If its previously unclimbed and your putting the time and effort in the route, do what you want with it. chip it, chalk it, reinforce it, glue stuff on, put gym holds on it if you want. Its up to you.
So long as its not chipping an existing route. thats not right. Take the french for example. Lot of limestone in southern france has been "enhanced" |
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The_Katana_Kid 07:14:28 Thu Nov 17 2005 Offline 110 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Glouster Buckets by the way.
Fantastic climbing. created by an accomplished "rock technician" |
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Josh_C 21:35:27 Thu Nov 17 2005 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
"I think its up to however invests the time and money on creating the route."
i take it ya trollin, but anyhowzys...you dont CREATE the route dumdum, you PROTECT the route |
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Josh_C 21:37:59 Thu Nov 17 2005 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
and for me its gotta be 1800traverse after i went and knocked all the holds off and filled in the ledges and made it a perfect 2fingewr pocket traverse into the crack on the left
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Cragx 21:52:37 Thu Nov 17 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator  Mood Now:  Post Mood: Reply |
Is that before or after you fell off it??
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Josh_C 21:58:59 Thu Nov 17 2005 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
shhhh
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The_Katana_Kid 02:02:41 Fri Nov 18 2005 Offline 110 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Josh C is wrong. I'm sure you wont mind if I quote from the dictionary "dumdum"
cre·ate ( P ) Pronunciation Key (kr-t) tr.v. cre·at·ed, cre·at·ing, cre·ates To cause to exist; bring into being. See Synonyms at found1. To give rise to; produce: That remark created a stir. To invest with an office or title; appoint. To produce through artistic or imaginative effort: create a poem; create a role. gee, that sounds alot like what someone does when they "create a climb" doesnt it????, or is it your implication that no creativity is used in the process of FA. p.s 1800 traverse is soft and so are you. |
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Josh_C 02:31:48 Fri Nov 18 2005 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
im not saying that, i know that creativity IS used in the process of the FA-
but mummy naytcha has done the creative bit for us, so for me i think the FA SHOULD be just EQUIPPING the line thats there already- anything further is CONTRIVING ps. 1800traverse is awesome pps. im soft ppps. guess what? your mad and im not |
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Josh_C 04:01:14 Fri Nov 18 2005 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
sick shots btw kaz
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bundybear 09:18:59 Fri Nov 18 2005 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
I have heard the 1800 Traverse is the softest 18 in the Blueys. I have not been on it, but rumour's suggust it could be downgraded to 16.
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The_Katana_Kid 20:15:46 Sun Nov 20 2005 Offline 110 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
yeah,
that hawkman sure does give away some nice softies! |
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Cragx 20:52:00 Sun Nov 20 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Thats because crimpshaws hands are so big, what are crimps to him are jugs to us normal human beings...since he's away lets finally tell the truth...hawkdude is just soft and so are his grades.
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Nick_Kaz 06:33:02 Mon Nov 21 2005 Offline 584 posts Rock God  Mood Now:  Reply |
You should be cruising vitruvian man the rod, its soft as butter!
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Cragx 07:44:30 Mon Nov 21 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
I refuse to climb it until he gives it a proper lower grade
...thats my story and im sticking to it. |
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Josh_C 08:46:31 Mon Nov 21 2005 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
well if you come and belay me on the crack around the corner i promise to think about downgrading vitruvian man :P
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Cragx 11:11:04 Mon Nov 21 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
If you promise to get up it and maybe I will.
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Josh_C 12:30:30 Mon Nov 21 2005 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
ok, i promise! :P
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shawkshaw 05:41:39 Tue Nov 22 2005 Offline 1343 posts Administrator  Reply |
axis of evil is really 23 so get on it while the inflated grading stays around
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bundybear 06:27:09 Tue Nov 22 2005 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
Somebody told me today that "Invisible Fist" is soft at 6, and maby be possibly chipped as well. Oh Dear !!
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The_Katana_Kid 06:41:27 Thu Nov 24 2005 Offline 110 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Don't tell the Mexicans that. They might cry.
They think all their rock is pure. Delivered straight from the hand of god. |
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shawkshaw 08:36:25 Sat Nov 26 2005 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
do not talk ill of the fist. it is a golden route. pure joy.
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Dalai 00:29:18 Wed Dec 7 2005 Offline 3 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
To think that many problems or climbs haven't had some enhancement is very naive. A high percentage of routes will have had some form of alteration. Be it excessive cleaning, comfortising, prising loose flakes, gluing loose flakes, to chipping and drilling! You will very likely already been on routes or boulder problems where this has been done, and probably raved about it afterwards! Unless you only climb first ascents. I am not condoning the above activities, but to say such a blanket statement without knowing the facts... these are routes in all the states of Australia (and not just something in other countries!!) As to the original topic question - probably couldn't list just one, many of the routes in question were really good. Both here and overseas. |
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Goodvibes 00:54:25 Wed Dec 7 2005 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now:  Reply |
So true Dalai, some of the craftspeople out there are highly skilled at their work and their subtle enhancements often go unnoticed by the massess of punters in their rush to repeat the route. Some however are not so shy, take the route Fabricator at Shipley, no mystery there.
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sloper_dan 04:30:56 Wed Dec 7 2005 Offline 169 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
to break off a loose hold to prevent danger is one thing but to alter a natural surface just for the sake of climbing it is not on. Fair enough we already destroy all the bush and over growth under and on the rock to make the surface climable, then bolts are placed in the cliff, which is another safety precaution, but to change a climb just to knock a few grades off, or to make it "better", shouldnt happen. Reality is that it does happen, what i dont see wont hurt me, as long as the climbs that are already there dont get changed. It would be like going up to one of garth millers project and taking a chunk out of it just cos its not "nice", but by chipping the climb its disrespecting the person who founded it. But hey ive only been climbing 7 years what would i know.
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The_Katana_Kid 04:40:27 Wed Dec 7 2005 Offline 110 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
What about all the holds that were knocked off Mechanical Animals after the 1st ascent?
is this right or wrong?? |
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