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3 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 3 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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Duncan101 10:13:18 Wed Mar 30 2005 Offline 52 posts Lead Climber Reply |
I was looking over some old copies of Rock, and found Peter Chaly's article "On a platter: a selection of the best middle grade NSW climbs". Here is his list:
Crackle, 16, Mt York, Trad Mezzaluna, 16, Mt York, Sport Sloth, 16, Thompson's Pt, sport Flake Crack, 17, Piddo, trad Grey Mist, 17, Point Perp, Trad Allied Chemical News, 17, Cosmic, trad Hang On, 17, Thompsons Pt, sport Interstate 31, 17, Cosmic, trad Psycopath, 17, Piddo, trad Vanderholics, 18, Thompsons Pt, sport Lexical Density, 18, Mt York, sport Flight of the phoenix, 18, warrumbungles, trad Depleted gonad circumference, 18, the grotto, sport The eternity, 18, Piddo, trad Schwing, 18, Medlow Bath, sport 80 minute hour, 18, Cosmic, trad Central pillar of mordor, 19, Barrenjoey, trad Auntie Jack, 19, Mt York, trad Ladder of Gloom, 19, Berowra, sport Spinning blades of steel, 20, the grotto, sport A day at the beach, 21, thompsons pt, sport Exhibition wall, 21, Mt York, sport West face of the mirrorball, 22, pierces pass, sport Murdoch the horseF#$Ker, 22, Thompsons Pt, sport My comments: I don't agree with crackle, although I've only done it on tr, and that was some time ago. I can't think of anything to replace it with though. Allied Chemical News - haven't done it yet, but I've heard mixed reports. Anyone like to clear this up? Schwing - what? The only appeal is the fact that its 2 pitches and has a little roof, its definitely not in the same league as the other 18's... Ladder of Gloom - also don't agree, both Alien Space Monsters and Gun Barrel Highway at Nowra are better, as is I'd rather be sailing at Cosmic. Only one 20, but I can't immediately think of any classic 20's - that mixed thing at New York who's name escapes me is pretty good though: suggestions? 21's: Look's poxable, if we must have a climb from Berowra, Like a cut snake at Medlow Bath - any other's 22's: If weak as I am at Shipley is considered 22, then surely it'd have to be a contender. Any other's? Then we could consider adding act climbs... |
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mikepatt 21:55:47 Wed Mar 30 2005 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Like most lists it's a good basis to start from. You can get a quick overview of the "contenders" from thecrag.com ; chose classic climbs from NSW and the grade. 16 is an interesting grade; I'd suggest maybe Giggles at Zig Zag (IMHO more interesting and neckier than Mezzaluna), Tol at Narrow Neck, or The Spartan at Piddo, however some of the climbing or rock quality may not be to everyone's tastes. Alternatively the Wolgan Valley could supply classic contenders for all the grades. What do you reckon, Nick?
On a similar note there's an increasing trend for instant ** & *** bolt ups, which do indeed prove popular with the masses but are, again in my opinion far from "classic". Perhaps we could buy and relocate Araps to say, Mudgee, then we could have a much better selection of classics a lot closer to home.. I'd also bring the bungles and Kaputar a bit closer and what the hell, let's buy Boorooba and place it next to Tarana.. |
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bundybear 01:19:13 Thu Mar 31 2005 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
Istanbul (Not Constantinople) at MtK is Gold. The best 16 anywhere..
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mikepatt 03:47:07 Thu Mar 31 2005 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Are we talking climbs or boulder problems? Obviously I've been prevented from getting on Istanbul by the queues of interstate and international visitors. Hopefully when I get there I'll find it a mightier line than Watchtower Crack or more delicate than Brolga... or is it merely "good" as the crag.com tickers rate it?
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Nick_Kaz 04:48:04 Thu Mar 31 2005 Offline 584 posts Rock God  Mood Now:  Reply |
From the wolgan? nothing good out there
 From what i have done 22- how about lardy ladies at shipley? spinning blades is average how about khe san 20 the coalmines The Knuckle 19 cokeovens or moniter madness cola mines are both better than gun barrel and ASM Although i havent done it Excaliber 17 on old baldy looks like it would walk all over flake crack. Crackle? Didn't think it was that great anyone here done mayday mayday 16 petries gully? or High seas at Eagle rock? As far as easy climbs how about: Fuddy Duddy 15 narrowneck is awesome at the grade. sweet dreams 14 trinity 13 12? uncle ud fuddy 11 endevour face is the best 10 I have ever done |
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Goodvibes 01:55:05 Fri Apr 1 2005 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now:  Reply |
Hey Duncan, I think the route at New York you are talking about is Nudity, a fantastic route that is for sure, nice moves on great rock does it for me.
I think you must be kidding to have anything at Berowra on the list, it may be nice if you live nearby but is hardly a travelling destination. The Allied Chemical News is a bit overrated as far as I'm concerned. I do recall it being fun but not all that inspiring. I'd Rather be Sailing would have made the list if it was still there. As for some that deserve to be on the list, what about Billy Bunter at the Glen, awesome. Just a few more to add to the list: Who Killed Bambi 22 at Bardens Abso Effing Lewdly 21 at Big Top Chasing Ami 21 Porters Pass Ernest the Lady 20 at The Glen, absolute Megaclassic Corrosion Castle 19 at Jolls Bridge, if it is still there. |
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adski 03:09:43 Fri Apr 1 2005 Unavailable 187 posts Flash Specialist Mood Now:  Reply |
ah yes i second monitor madness. a 50m single pitch 19 up an arete has to be good. on the Allied Chemical News, perhaps the fact that it's short, hardish for the grade, has a longish walk in, and requires a scramble up puts people off.
Two trips to Petries Gully and I still haven't got on Mayday Mayday. Must be something wrong with me. Mr McGlue (18) at Zap Crag is very pleasurable also. |
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thesimplepilot 03:37:47 Fri Apr 1 2005 Offline 244 posts Onsight Specialist  Reply |
you could probably put together another 2 or 3 lists, none with the same climbs and none with the ones chaly used.
when i first read the list i thought it was rushed together just to fill space in the mag. i didn't take it seriously. |
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Goodvibes 04:31:09 Fri Apr 1 2005 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now: Reply |
Come on simpleton, this is deadly serious. What could possibly be more important.
Mr McGlue may be pleasurable but from memory is hardly a classic. Each to their own though I guess. |
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Duncan101 06:54:28 Sun Apr 3 2005 Offline 52 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Goodvibes: re Berowra, I agree totally. Not sure why Ladder of Gloom made it, but if a Berowra route was necessary then I think looks poxable is better.
Anyone have any thoughts on "The Fear"? Should it be on there? Also, can someone tell me where the coal mines are? |
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Nick_Kaz 10:07:29 Sun Apr 3 2005 Offline 584 posts Rock God Mood Now: Reply |
The coalmines are in the Wolgan valley, Are you in the SRC? If not join up and get a guide book and get out there!
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Duncan101 09:56:57 Mon Apr 4 2005 Offline 52 posts Lead Climber Reply |
I'm not a member of SRC, but I have a friend who's been pestering me for a while about getting out to the Wolgan. Thanks for the reccomendations!
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thesimplepilot 10:04:32 Mon Apr 4 2005 Offline 244 posts Onsight Specialist Reply |
oh, i'm sorry, i should have made myself a bit clearer. i totally agree with you, goodvibes. i meant that you could put together 2 or 3 lists of comparable quality to chalys. with all due respect, his list is pretty crap and shows at best,a real lack of thought. for example he included Lexical Density but not Electric Blue. where's spoilt brats and gash attacks? make no mistake, i take this very seriously, which is why i choose to dismiss it as impertinent rubbish.
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Goodvibes 22:04:44 Mon Apr 4 2005 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now: Reply |
Thats better simpleton, the internet is no place for joking around.
I have always had difficulty trying to figure out what is so good about lexical density. Sure there are a few nice moves I guess but nothing all that special. Maybe if the wall went all the way to the ground instead of the 6 or so metres of choss up to the big ledge. It is always going to be subjective though, everyone has their own opinion, it is just that most of those opinions different to mine are obviously wrong. If anything, at least his list gets you thinking. Seems everyone raves about Spoilt Brats, I will have to get back to Boyce sometime soon and get on it I guess, and get to work on some of the new stuff that has been going on up there. It's just that The Glen is oh so convenient. |
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bundybear 22:17:26 Mon Apr 4 2005 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
Go the Simple Dude. If your serious - come to St Peters at 6 this arvo. Also Mr Simpleton, how did you get your name. It Rocks !!
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mikepatt 01:12:49 Tue Apr 5 2005 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
(Is that how you do the quote thing???) Yes, Endeavor Face is a good climb, but it's definately 14, unless you're thinking of Vertigo.. grade 10 Oh, & I was hoping Nick CLOW would drop in wiith a few Wolgan Favourites |
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adski 03:59:38 Tue Apr 5 2005 Unavailable 187 posts Flash Specialist Mood Now: Reply |
Don't worry Nick KAZ, you're still my favourite Nick. especially now you're 21 - HAPPY BIRTHDAY BUDDY!!
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Nick_Kaz 11:08:33 Tue Apr 5 2005 Offline 584 posts Rock God Mood Now: Reply |
Heart broken!
Cheers Mate! |
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Duncan101 12:14:16 Tue Apr 5 2005 Offline 52 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Yep. |
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mikepatt 03:02:23 Tue May 17 2005 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
After a recent trip to Tarana I'd add "Up the Nose of Love" as a classic (granite) contender. I doesn't get any stars in the Rock guide and gets one star plus an upgrade (to 17) in the SRC guide. Personally I reckon it's only 16, but probably gets the upgrade due to it's runout nature and the fact that some "interesting" moves are well away from the bolts. You could definately take a cheese grater slide and then hit the deck from quite a height before you reach the second bolt. But that's what makes it memorable. 2 or 3 starts in my book.
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Goodvibes 03:20:18 Tue May 17 2005 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now: Reply |
Nothing like a few character building run outs to add a few stars is there.
I have been out to Tarana a few times but am yet to rope up, can't get past all the boulders down the bottom. I will have to try some of the routes eventually though. I scoped most of them out a while back by myself, certainly lots of great lines, even if they are slabs. From all reports I don't think "Up the Nose of Love" is alone in being a little on the runout side of things. Bit of a change from the Glen thats for sure. |
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mikepatt 04:58:14 Tue May 17 2005 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
The bolting at Tarana is very inconsistent, with the climbs of around 12-15m having anything from NO bolts to 4 bolts. The grading is also a little inconsistent with climbs such as Jonestown 19 an easy well protected affair unlike some of the longer, lower graded stuff.
Most of the bolt protected climbs aren't sports climbs as such and on quite a few you may as well be soloing or bouldering.. There's also some "interesting" bolts, such as the first fixed hanger on Jailbreak.. which looks like it's held on with an elastoplast or some old fingertape... |
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Romfrantic 05:16:34 Tue May 17 2005 Offline 60 posts Lead Climber Reply |
I'd have to agree with you there mikepatt, "Up the Nose of Love" at Evans Crown is a nice one! ...I'd rate it a 16 too, the Rock guide rates it as 16 as well...."Pass the Lentils" (17?) is also one of my favs, but is short and not much to it other than some wicked moves to get started....A Tarana classic, Fuzzy Navel (18), is quite run-out, I find, but the 2-star rating is there for a reason - pretty cool & scary at the same time.
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Steve_M 06:47:06 Tue May 17 2005 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer  Reply |
I wouldn't pick fuzzy navel as all that run out. There is about 10-11 bolts on the top 40m pitch and the bottom pitch has relatively good gear. Try some of the 20-21's on the right side of googleplex, 4 bolts in 40m. I think nearly everything at Tarana no matter stars or grade is about 19-20 and deserves at least one to two stars.
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Duncan101 09:38:55 Tue May 17 2005 Offline 52 posts Lead Climber Reply |
How is Tarana in Winter?
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