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3 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 3 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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PSD 22:31:35 Mon Oct 8 2007 Offline 22 posts Outdoor Bumbly Reply |
Thanks Bundy - my wife Jo is the one who takes the good shots. Tarana is indeed awesome - more people should get out there.
It would be great to meet up for a climb, I'll be at araps for a couple of weeks but maybe November? |
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dwebster 00:57:38 Tue Oct 9 2007 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
I totally agree about tarana. I was out there on the long weekend monday. Not another climber there on a beautiful day!
Did a whole swag of wonderful routes. How good is 6 days on the toad!? I wouldn't mind it if someone stuck a few more bolts in some places though! And replaced some too! I'd love to do fuzzy navel, but it looks totally run out! Like 15m between bolts (which aren't great either!). |
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PSD 02:14:55 Tue Oct 9 2007 Offline 22 posts Outdoor Bumbly Reply |
Six days on the toad would have to be one of my favourite ever routes. Stunning arete.
I presume you're kidding about new bolts of course! You would hate it if someone cut-out those classic run-outs! I did Fuzzy Navel last time I was out there. It is massively full-on but absolutely sensational. On the second pitch (the bolted arete) not only are the bolts run-out but they are located just above the top of each undulation (to prevent rope drag I guess) so that every time you reach a steep bit the next bolt is well and truly out of reach and the last one is waaaaay below you. The trad first pitch and the belay were also memorable. I loved it but it may take some time before I repeat it ... |
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adski 02:47:27 Tue Oct 9 2007 Unavailable 187 posts Flash Specialist Mood Now:  Post Mood: Reply |
My buddy Jesse dragged me out to Tarana last week, how awesome is it!! I don't remember the first pitch of Fuzzy Navel having a bolt on it a decade ago, it's well protected with gear all the way! And nice when split into three pitches too.
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PSD 02:59:27 Tue Oct 9 2007 Offline 22 posts Outdoor Bumbly Reply |
Does the first pitch have a bolt now? I don't remember it having one last year? But maybe subsequent events blotted it from my memory ... I also thought the 1st pitch was adequately protected.
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rabbitoh 05:09:03 Tue Oct 9 2007 Offline 202 posts Onsight Specialist Mood Now:  Reply |
I don't remember the 2nd pitch of Fuzzy Navel being that runout but it was a while ago and I do remember being in a bit of a zone of concentration when I lead it, so it probably is.
I remember forgetting my bolt brackets and having to use stoppers and when my partner followed he unclipped the draws from the stoppers and left the stoppers there. I was not very impressed and had to rap down to get them. Tarana is great. I want to go back. |
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bundybear 06:22:58 Tue Oct 9 2007 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
Fuzzy Navel is hyper rad. I remember its above the tree's and i thought i was going to die. The guide talks about a tree at the 1st belay. This was gone a few years ago when i did it. I dont think its grown back ??
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PSD 06:53:39 Tue Oct 9 2007 Offline 22 posts Outdoor Bumbly Reply |
Yeah that's right the tree is history - you need [insert whatever number makes you feel safe] of 4+ size cams for the belay. You could just about body belay though, that belay stance is just the right size to jam your arse in (if your arse is as wide as mine anyway). I held a fall on the first pitch without weighting the anchors.
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rabbitoh 07:06:43 Tue Oct 9 2007 Offline 202 posts Onsight Specialist Mood Now: Reply |
There used to be a chockstone wedged into the wide flaired crack at or near the first belay. You wouldn't belay off it alone but I rapped off it when I had to get my stoppers off the 2nd pitch.
It held. |
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rabbitoh 08:08:17 Tue Oct 9 2007 Offline 202 posts Onsight Specialist Mood Now: Reply |
Nice piccys of Firebug, PSD. That's certainly a photogenic route.
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PSD 22:20:39 Wed Oct 10 2007 Offline 22 posts Outdoor Bumbly Reply |
Thanks Rabbitoh - it's my wife Jo who should take the credit but it is a stunning line, great rock, great backdrop - sensational.
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