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MattyB
02:54:49 Fri
Jul 16 2004

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Blue Mountains - Where to climb

I'll be heading the Blue Mtns in September, staying at BlackHeath, and wondering where to climb.

As we will have kids with us we need it to be relatively easy access, single pitch stuff (I'll be mainly top roping)
Looking fo a mix of grades of between 12 and 21.

The suggestion from Chockstone is MT York.
I read a write up from Rock 53 and they seem to suggest a few good climbs there as well...

Anywhere else worth a look...

What's the recomended guide book..the OSP one by Simon Carter?


Cheers

Matty


  
shawkshaw
03:07:03 Fri
Jul 16 2004

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Re: Blue Mountains - Where to climb

yeah get the simon carter guide its the best one to get first. Mount York is not bad but its not great either. i would recomend,

Bardens lookout- mainly sport grades from 12- 24 and a few either side- although not easy to top rope.

New york- mainly sport with heaps of climbs in your grade bracket. you wil lneed removable hangers for this crag. - top roping is possible.


Dam Cliffs- easy access, child friendly and lots of easy climbs and a few harder ones thrown in to. Sport with removable hangers required.- very easy to top rope.

Cosmic County- 30 min walk in/out awesome climbing. trad/sport

how old are your children?

if you do top rope please don't thread directly into the anchors as it will wear them out. this is becoming a problem at popular areas. use a couple of quickdraws or locking carabiners and clean them when your finished.

steve
[1 edits; Last edit by shawkshaw at 03:09:39 Fri Jul 16 2004]

  
Cragx
03:23:36 Fri
Jul 16 2004

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Re: Blue Mountains - Where to climb

Just to give it a plug, Sahara Pt is good for top roping to, especially the newer area's, and very much in the grades you want ie 12-21...need to have a 4wd though to lessen the walk in by 1km...and best of all no crowds so top roping wont pis anyone else off.

Cosmic isn't the easiest to top rope from memory , but I agree with steve re Mt york...better places to go.
[1 edits; Last edit by Cragx at 05:03:55 Fri Jul 16 2004]

  
Goodvibes
03:28:29 Fri
Jul 16 2004

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Re: Blue Mountains - Where to climb

Have to agree with all of Steve's recommendations.

The Carter/Pircher guide is by far the best available so best to grab yourself a copy.

If you can, it would be best to avoid places like Mt York on the weekends. The often large number of people there (abseiling/rockclimbing courses) can make the place a bit of a circus. There is also the problem of people knocking crap off the top of the crag when setting up/scoping out etc, so be carefull.




  
chris_coghill
07:26:44 Fri
Jul 16 2004

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Re: Blue Mountains - Where to climb

A few other ideas..
Medlow Bath Sunbath area... easy to set up topropes, lower grades, easy access, good view
Shipley Upper Black slab area... great view, easy access, atmospheric climbs, but a bit crowded. A really beautiful area with some inspiring walls and lots of climbers to watch.
Dams Cliffs..I agree, this has to be the most family friendly area in the moutains, especially with new top anchors on a lot of the climbs, so topropes are easy to set up. A bit like a sport version of Summer Day Valley in the Grrampians.
Zig Zag..... a great little cliff with loads of easy grades in a great setting with very easy access. It's not usually crowded, and there's a mix of sport and trad routes, especially in the lower grades, with some easy to set up topropes. There's also a cool "Bushrangers cave" to take kids exploring in.

Cosmic County is great, but there'll be a lot of the "are we there yet" factor if you take kids.
Hope that gives you a little bit of help. The consensus seems to be that those bloody Victorians don't know what they're talking about, and there's quite a few crags better than Mt. York!! (only teasing!)

  
MattyB
02:33:06 Mon
Jul 19 2004

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Re: Blue Mountains - Where to climb

It's True, we are Mexicans :smile:

Thanks for the suggestions everyone - I'll be off to get myself a guide and avoiding Mt York as suggested.

Mt York sounds a bit like SummerDay Valley at the gramps as far as the crowds go.

  

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