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2 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 2 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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wyt91t  14:17:46 Sun Apr 17 2005 Offline 657 posts boulder hound Reply |
what a great place i jumped on
the tube 10m 24 and couldn't pull off the four and a half moves a managed three then would peel off. hang five 15m 21 very soft i thought. off the lip 12m 23 went up to the over hang and had three shots at it got to the match ontop of the overhang but peeled off twice. (that was my warm up for the day) jaws 11m 21 this was my 2nd climb for the day peeled off twice at the top trying to clip the last draw. first time by staying on the crimps and not seeing the big right hand jug,and the second my hand slid off the jugg just as i had the rope on the gate of the crab and fell a good 5 metres.i scared the shit out off my belayer dougy the poor guy was shaking |
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wyt91t 15:40:51 Sun Apr 17 2005 Offline 657 posts boulder hound Reply |
ohh another thing too i forgot write about i got
Mad Rock LOCOS for me b'day as a present he he |
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bundybear 00:03:34 Mon Apr 18 2005 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
Christain,
Thats sounds like a good couple of days. You got some cool birthday presents. I got a new rope the other day, but haven't used it yet. Bundy |
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wyt91t 11:46:10 Tue Apr 19 2005 Offline 657 posts boulder hound Reply |
if you dont want it i'll have it.
what did you get |
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Cragx 22:59:44 Tue Apr 19 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator  Mood Now:  Post Mood:  Reply |
And you dont get to use it today either bundy...where did this rain come from?????
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mpage 23:11:24 Tue Apr 19 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Not too fussed where it came from ... but where is it going, hope its not still here for the long weekend. Rod, you still heading up to Mt K?
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Cragx 23:41:54 Tue Apr 19 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
was hoping to on sudnay, you still going away or will you be around? could always hit The stables to do thise projects (and add a few more at otherland)
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mpage 00:21:37 Wed Apr 20 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Depends on the weather, if it looks clear for Sun and Mon I'll probably head up to the hunter for wine and climbing (maybe not in that order though), If I stick around I'll PM you, otherwise the next weekend for the stables?
Anyone else heading out? |
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Cragx 00:28:10 Wed Apr 20 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Nah not yet, kevs away so wont find out from him until thursday, log ya in for following week stables anyway.
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wyt91t 11:32:25 Wed Apr 20 2005 Offline 657 posts boulder hound Reply |
hopefully on monday dont know where
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mpage 03:23:15 Tue Apr 26 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Rod, did you unearth any new gems at Mt K on Sunday?
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Cragx 03:44:32 Tue Apr 26 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Nah didnt go everyone deseerted me for far off distant crags. Went to the Trenches instead for a boulder, 1st time there and had lots of fun...had the place to myself too....how was up north...you hit the crags and winneries?
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mpage 04:40:40 Tue Apr 26 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
A little bit of both, but the wine was the cheaper bottlo variety unfortunently ...
Headed back to Monkey Face to get on the lines that I was planning on hitting a couple of months ago when Jo had an accident on the warmup climb. I think their is some sort of monkey curse on her though after her run in with a couple of dozen leaches and two snakes on this trip though. Rapping off 'Without A Lead' a 1.5m snake crawled out of the crack just to the right of her at about 8m up and then crawled straight up the slab to where I was standing on the belay ledge waiting to head down. Fortunently it was trying to get away from us so it didn't cause any problems but was a bit off putting. Ended up doing a few of really good lines and one nasty pile of choss that I shouldn't have headed up in the first place. Oh well back to the sport climbing of Stables on Sunday heh? |
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Cragx 06:22:26 Tue Apr 26 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Yeah sounds good
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trentsadventures 23:05:21 Tue Apr 26 2005 Offline 97 posts Lead Climber Reply |
What other routes did you climb at monkey face mpage?
I had a nice incident on the three pitch sand bag 17 RS on the Big Banana Buttress when I slotted my hand into a sinker jam at the top of the last pitch to see a brown bellied tree snake (thats apparently what it was called) who was rather annoyed at being aroused from his sunbaking session. |
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mpage 01:59:21 Wed Apr 27 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
I think all the routes up there are probably sandbags, I'm sure I was told once that its assumed you'll add 3 or 4 grades to anything put up pre 2000.
Started on Chutney (12m 12 Trad), its in the corner to the left of RS, liebacking up the small corner crack for about 5m then jugging up the rest. A nice climb with good pro, probably not worth 2 stars but I suppose its all relative to the location. Next got onto Stopper (35M 11/13 Trad) on the upper cliffline to the right of RS. Has a really nice first pitch up the corner then out and around the flake, pitty about the thrutchy and hard to protect second pitch which I couldn't convince my partner to follow me on forcing me to clean on rap afterwards. Without a lead (?12M 14? Sport) is on the slabs to the right of stopper, a really nice balancy climb with not a lot for the hands to purchase on for the middle 6/7m. Not too sure what sort of snake it was that we encountered here but it was a hell of a climber, most of the wall it headed straight up the blank face to the right of the crack, at one point the angle increased to a couple of degrees of vert and it just followed a small weaknesses and weaved to the top. It was a yellowy green colour without any mottling / bands and very skinny ... any specialists out there? I was planning on heading up Apple Arete (?30M 15 Mixed) next but could not convince my partner to follow and didn't think my rope would make the rap / loweroff to clean it. Instead headed up Connie (25M 14 Trad) which was a fun bouldery start for the first 6m over the flake / mantle section but a horrible pile of choss for the rest of the climb with very sandy and weak placements. I'll head back there one day but I think I'll need to take a different climbing partner next time after her injury on the first trip and snake encounter on the second. There are certainly a few nice lines in between a lot of average ones. Only problem is that the grading is a bit bruising on the ego. *Probably should have posted this in trip reports -- sorry about that.* |
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trentsadventures 03:57:50 Wed Apr 27 2005 Offline 97 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Apple Arete is probably the best line at Monkey Face although the crux at the first bolt is probably more like a 19 move. best done as one pitch as opposed to two like the guide says. From the anchors on the pedestal a doubled 50m rope will get you to the high ledge where RS and apple arete start, then its and easy 5m scramble to the ground. some of the best grade 15 moves around. You can continue up to the top of the butress via Dire Straits 18 (more like 20) which begins at the chains for Apple Arete and heads left around the arete then up via 5 U bolts (this route was rebolted in 2002). Thin face climbing in the most exposed position at monkey face.
Other good routes are colour card (20) and Visage 17(restored to original condition after some tool retro bolted it by adding 4 expansion bolts to it) Joes Climb 21 (the first 21 in the Hunter), Profanity (21) and Bereska (19) are all great lines too. Bereska has double UB lower-offs at the top. Good to hear you had a good time. |
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mpage 06:11:55 Wed Apr 27 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Trent,
Are all those routes graded in the same hunter style? Thanks for the suggestions, looks like another trip up there will need to be done sooner than planned. |
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Nick_Kaz 06:39:50 Wed Apr 27 2005 Offline 584 posts Rock God  Mood Now:  Reply |
mpage, yeah i think those climbs are all graded in similar monkeyface fassion, i also recomend smear to oblivion(20) and jear to delerium(17) on the smear slabs as well.
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mpage 06:57:53 Wed Apr 27 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Thanks Nick, I was planning on hitting both of those, they looked like nice lines from without a lead... but the snake incident put us off those slabs for the rest of the afternoon for some reason ...
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thesimplepilot 10:30:03 Wed Apr 27 2005 Offline 244 posts Onsight Specialist  Reply |
from the description the snake was probably a green tree snake(Dendrelaphis punctulatus). they're not poisonus.
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wyt91t 05:46:38 Thu Oct 12 2006 Offline 657 posts boulder hound Reply |
jumped on the tube a couple days ago and ticked it.
finally.this was after my two atempts on rubber lover now this is my new nemises. |
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sloper_dan 09:38:36 Thu Oct 12 2006 Offline 169 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
ill be on the tube and split wave on sunday i hope i get em
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wyt91t 13:39:35 Thu Oct 12 2006 Offline 657 posts boulder hound Reply |
F#$Kin girl go point perp with me
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sloper_dan 01:24:41 Sat Oct 14 2006 Offline 169 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
haha, na im going to centennial, hopefully the weather is cooler by then, cos its been bloody hot over the last 2 days
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