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2 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 2 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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Cragx 09:28:25 Fri Apr 29 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator  Mood Now:  Post Mood:  Reply |
Okay lets start the ball rolloing rather than making a broad question let stick to sydney basin (we can do blueys later or other grade later), whats the best climb at this grade?
Marsupial smear is my pick a mighty fine 18 as long as you stick to going over the bulge. |
wyt91t  09:41:19 Fri Apr 29 2005 Offline 657 posts boulder hound Reply |
wheres that
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Cragx 12:23:05 Fri Apr 29 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Barengoey
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mpage 01:36:12 Sat Apr 30 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
For grade 16 I love the variety of moves on proffesor wigginsworth and it has a spectacular view from the top. Or possibly Ag Science.
17 always seems to be a strange grade, their aren't that many out their, but I do like Manic at Narrabeen and would love to get on the fear one day when I'm willing to lose my gear. Marsupial smearer is a great climb at 18, and you get the bonus of being able to run up liquid insanity without moving your rope tarp more than two meters. Don't know about 19 though, if I'd been able to convince Jo to stop at Berowra on the way back from hunter last weekend I would probably say ladder of gloom, but haven't had a chance to jump on it yet. Haven't ventured down the southern suburbs though so not sure what classics lurk in the much talked up shire region? |
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bundybear 04:18:59 Sat Apr 30 2005 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
16 - Sparky - BlueBell
17 - Ozone Action - Catherdral 18 - Captain Underpants and the Attack of the Wicked Wedgie Woman - MtK 19 - Ladder of Gloom - Berowra Mt Alex at Mittagong has the best climbs around 17==>20 grade, its not really in Sydney, but its closer to home than Berowra. Get there !! |
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Cragx 07:36:57 Sat Apr 30 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Ag science over professor wiggs as it only realy got one hard move were ag science is sustained all the way, from what I hear The Fear would have to be up there for best 18 but never been on it so dont really know, and yep agree with ladder of gloom...Chronic at The Stables is a fun 19 a shame its to short
Ill have to venture to the shire and Mt A to check out these alleged classics...have been to the Cathedral but was turned off by the mankyness of the place at the time which probably clouded my judgement. |
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JJDisco 00:26:34 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 48 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
Best 16 : Professor Wigginsworth... (barrenjoey)
Best 17 : Ozone Action (Cathedral) Best 18 : The Fear (without a doubt - have done it twice!! - though when I did it it was only a 17) (North Head) Best 19 : Ladder of Gloom (Berowra) I agree with Bundybear, great stuff at the gong (mitta) |
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mpage 01:16:03 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Has anyone (discretely) been on the fear in the last 18 mths or so, has the pro rotted away yet?
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JJDisco 02:57:20 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 48 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
From memory the only fixed gear worth speaking of was the belay station and 2 or 3 bolts above it. The bolts lower down were really cosmetic only. One bolt I cliped on the traverse low down is actually on "The Bolt Ladder" and you needed a wire over it. Anyway the bolts from the belay upwards were all really good quality SS bolts, they were shiny! so I doubt that they have rusted out. Perhaps the rock fell out, but thats a different story. It'd be great if you could actually rap into the belay, as the 2nd pitch is fantastic, the 1st serves as a means to get you there.
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Steve_M 03:27:38 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer  Reply |
The fear (17) tops the quality list on thecrag.com. Followed by central pillar of mordor(19), followed by captain under pants(18) at Mt K.
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Cragx 05:02:31 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Shows you how bogus thecrag stats are eh?
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mpage 06:18:07 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Should their be an age factor in determining those rankings or should a 'mega classic' transcend time?
One tick in 18mths suggests a bit of nostalgia attached to peoples ratings, of which most have probably been loaded on since climbing was banned at Nth Head, for ascents made years before. Doesn't change the fact that I'd love to get on it though. |
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Cragx 06:43:22 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
I was actualy talking about Captain underpants, its had to few ascents to make any comparison with others. Any of thoise type of stats should stick to climbs with at least 20 ascents as that when you would get a proper "average" of what poeple think.
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mpage 07:02:57 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 88 posts Lead Climber Reply |
A prophecy then?
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chris_coghill 07:57:13 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 278 posts Onsight Specialist Reply |
How about some of the good short solos at Lindfield, like the overhang or some of the cracks? I reckon a solo of the overhang or some of the good walls rates well over a crappy bolted slab at barrenjoey any day.
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Cragx 08:39:41 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Yeah they are good but do you classify then as climbs or boulder problems?
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Duncan101 09:46:44 Mon May 2 2005 Offline 52 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Very true. The Blank Wall and the Tourist Route both spring to mind, as well as the Overhang. She Oak Crack isn't half bad either. As for the bouldering vs solo, problem vs route debate, please can we not? |
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JJDisco 00:28:24 Tue May 3 2005 Offline 48 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
See I think that Sydney just has too few good routes in general. Almost all the "best" ones are mediocre compared to bluey's and even Nowra. They are really just too short to have that kind of pull. That's why I really loved the two climbs i've done at North Head (the Fear and WW3 - even though this gets no stars in the guide, the rock is pretty good, ie gear actually may save a fall).
With many sydney climbs, even those stated above (noted above for eg prof wiggensworth) there is a crux and a doddle, or the otherway around (been to bangor west?) This is where I believe that length (not width) really does count. (Incidently has anyone been to Lost World? Has it been rebolted yet and have the projects been finished? It looked like it had some great potential). Enough of a ramble. I actually enjoy climbing around sydney (it's close!), especially now with new crags going up (eg Mt K - where I had a great time last weekend), bolts are no longer the frightening things they were, and chipped routes are becoming the exception rather than the rule to good climbs (eg gloucester buckets at Diamond Bay). So perhaps there is hope for some good routes to come about for eg "The Memory Cathedral" at Mt K looks to be an fantastic route. Enough crap from an reminiscent old fart.:rolleyes: |
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shawkshaw 07:42:46 Tue May 3 2005 Offline 1343 posts Administrator  Reply |
vitruvian man is the original and the best on that wall
 incidently ive been to the lost world with the intention of rebolting it but got so confused by bolts nad the guide that i gave up. i think the best remedy for that place is to remove all existing fixed protection and start agin as there are some nice loking lines if they had bolts in the right places. |
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Cragx 08:42:34 Tue May 3 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Cant argue with you ther Hawkman, one of these day I'Il drag my large arse up it (or attempt to)......
Sydney climbing is very different to the blueys, everything is short and compact so you cant cmpare (nor would you want to)...but for a major city we have a lot of diversity for us climbers that have other commitments that make long drives to crag a little hard. I like climbing in around sydney...to be hoenst I just love climbing and the fact i can go 5 minutes and jump on rock is a bonus. add on top of that that evn now i can go for a walk, find a new crag and develop it in the radius of a city with 3.5 million people...where else can you do that??? |
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Nick_Kaz 09:13:00 Tue May 3 2005 Offline 584 posts Rock God  Mood Now:  Reply |
Yes steve That is definitly the best 19 at Mt K, maby even sydney!  |
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Romfrantic 00:40:20 Wed May 4 2005 Offline 60 posts Lead Climber Reply |
central pillar of mordor (19) is certainly up there as one of my favs 19.
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shawkshaw 02:19:39 Wed May 4 2005 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
your obviously a harder climber than us mere mortals nick!
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Cragx 06:10:59 Wed May 4 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Dont dish/downgrade hawkmans Vman Kaz, them fighting words...its the only half decent cimb hes ever put up...you'll break the poor fellas heart...
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Nick_Kaz 07:29:27 Wed May 4 2005 Offline 584 posts Rock God Mood Now: Reply |
 And dont you forget it! If i climbed a bit more in sydney id have a better idea, but i enjoyed: 18:Muscoviet Mosquito 19: Ladder of gloom cant think of any 16/17 thats stood out |
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