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5 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 5 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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bundybear 10:06:49 Mon Mar 8 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Post Mood:  Reply |
bought a pair of these shoes about 6 months ago. Within a month of climbing with them half the rubber on the left toe had peeled off. I was a bit pissed off but thought it must have just been me dragging my foot or something. 2 weeks ago I noticed after lowering off a climb the heel has a huge tear thru the rubber near pull-on loops.
Has any one had any similar experirence with these shoes?? Do any climbing have warranty?? Is there anything I can do other than take them to big John to get fixed... http://www.fiveten.com/products/index.php?action=item&id=8 |
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Cragx 21:29:34 Mon Mar 8 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator  Mood Now:  Post Mood:  Reply |
Hey Bundy,
Ive owed a few five tens in my day and while very good shoes for climbing, they are very very fragile. It spretty well known that five tens are poorly made and come apart pretty easy, six months is about teh average of things going wrong. you could try five ten, but id say they tell you politely your outta luck. |
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bundybear 23:59:46 Mon Mar 8 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Post Mood:  Reply |
Hey Rod,
Thanks for the input.. Jason |
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Chris_Y 03:44:44 Tue Mar 9 2004 Offline 102 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Gotta be careful of the dodgy Five-Tens. The ones available on the local market are manufactured in SE Asia (China / Vietnam?) and are crap quality. Ones purchased in the US / Europe or over the net from these palces are hugly superior. A mate of mine has two pairs of Five-Ten slippers (the red ones?) of similar age. One was bought here and the other over the net from the US... the difference in quality is staggering!
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Cragx 04:19:08 Tue Mar 9 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Yep first pair I bought was while in the US, really good shoe, excpet my bumbly style blew the toes out...my fault not the shoe manufacturer....next pair was from Oz store, different style but a lot more fragile. Goes with what chris says I suppose.
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bundybear 11:06:45 Tue Mar 9 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Post Mood: Reply |
Well they are under the kind care of big john now.
Lets see what magic he can do.. |
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AaronL 15:06:30 Thu Jun 24 2004 Offline 5 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
It isn't true that the Euro / US versions are better quality - the ones over here are just as bad. Been through 3 pairs of Dragons and 1 pair of V10s in 9 months (bought in Oz, UK and US). To be fair I do have my shoes mega-tight. I have noticed that some batches of shoes are slightly different. This made by older stock or they have made minor changes. If you have a pair that don't fall apart - count yourself lucky.
FiveTens perform mainly because stealth rubber is noticeably stickier. The sizing is also inconsistent and most people put up with this poor quality because of the better performing rubber. I have heard good things about mad rock - they don't last either but they don't overcharge you for the privilige - haven't had a chance to try a pair for myself yet but heard the rubber is as good / as sticky as FiveTen |
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Josh_C 22:10:35 Thu Jun 24 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
everything ive heard about madrock says theyre throw away shoes- for the price i guess they can afford to be, but they dont charge any more for triop and IMHO theyre a far better shoe.(thankn god that there SOMETHINGgood about workin at a gym- $140 for dominator V's)
The rubberon madrocks issposed to be really soft, so it gives you the sticky, but wears down in double time |
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bundybear 00:21:21 Fri Jun 25 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
The Anasazi's are back from Big John now, but the heel is nearly cracked off. So I am in the market for some new shoes soon. Any Suggestions??
I just get pissed off with 5.10, I love climbing with them but they just fall to bits. My 1st pair of shoes I bought a couple of years ago were Scarpas, I have climbed on them heaps got them resoled several times and still use them as a backup when the 5.10s are being repaired are still going strong and no signs off falling to bits, but just dont give me the same performance. |
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Goodvibes 00:29:32 Fri Jun 25 2004 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now:  Reply |
I can recomend Sportivas, at least Miuras and Cobras anyway. I have had both for a fair while now and both have had a resole and are still going strong. Can't say I noticed a great deal of difference from the Sportiva rubber to the Stealth after the resole. Anyway, they have been good, trusty shoes for me, the Miura laces fell to bits after a long while but hey, it's not hard to replace them. Expensive yes, but no more than 5.10's.
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Josh_C 02:04:20 Fri Jun 25 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
yeh ive heard a lot of good things about both miuras and katanas- thinking about getting fitted in some when i save up enough...
what are the differences in fit/sizes between scarpa and sportiva? |
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Cragx 02:30:44 Fri Jun 25 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Favourite shoes and still going strong after many a resole are my Boreal Lasers (dont make em anymore), shame they are pink.
Ive owned 5:10's , sportivas, scarpas, boreals and I reckon the boreals are the best made, but the 5:10's feel the best on the feet for the two weeks they stay together. |
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Goodvibes 04:05:07 Fri Jun 25 2004 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now: Reply |
Just admit it, you only bought them bacause of the colour didn't you.
I have never worn Scarpa's but I have quite wide feet and Sportivas seem to fit me quite well. It's hard to say though because often it varies not just between manufactuers but between models as well. |
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vwills 06:34:16 Fri Jun 25 2004 Offline 355 posts Soloer Reply |
"Strong" being the operative word eh Rod?
Very very happy with my latest shoes- Sportiva Mythos" for anything other than thin edging and toe jams. Other pair is Scarpa Dominatrix (3rd resole still doing fine) and Mammut Blast (2nd resole, great for multipitch and easy trad). |
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AaronL 09:48:24 Fri Jun 25 2004 Offline 5 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
I guess its always going to be trade-off between wear and perfomance - it's just a shame that with FiveTen the definition of 'wear' extends beyond just the rubber.
I have to agree that scarpa makes the best shoe - but unfortunately the rubber is crap and for a while i used to have to get them resoled in stealth as soon as i got them. I have Sportiva, Boreal et al. and they all use vibram or similar so there really isn't that much difference between them. At the end of the day it comes down to what you want out of a shoe. If its performance you crave then your choices are somewhat limited - you will have to probably have to put up with FiveTen - (maybe mad rocks if the rubber is stickier) unless you none of the models fit you at all. |
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Steve_M 03:15:25 Thu Jul 1 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer  Reply |
I have had my miura's for two years of regular climbing. lost count of how many resoles and they are still going strong. They are the best made shoe I have ever had.
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krankedjj 10:00:47 Mon Aug 2 2004 Offline 78 posts Lead Climber  Mood Now:  Reply |
For what's its worth I have a pair and they're awesome. I have had Muiras, Latest Dominators, Mocusyms, Aces. These are the best so far, but not for a thrasher gym pair. The Muira's have been the hardest wearing and a very good all rounder.
The Ana's are more for hard redpoint attempts, not gym or warm up's. They just won't last if if treat em mean. I think most people have a gym/warm up pair and a good repointing pair. I have just ordered a pair of Ana's from the States, so it will be good to see if there is any 'quality' difference. Hope this helps JJ |
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krankedjj 04:20:22 Tue Aug 24 2004 Offline 78 posts Lead Climber Mood Now: Reply |
I now have my new pair of Anasazi's that were purchased from MEC in Canada.
Underneath the size tag, both pairs have the same info: Upper made in Korea, rubber and assembled in the USA. Is there any visible difference? Who knows, can't pick it. The only difference I can see is that it costs $140 CAN for the shoes as opposed to $250 AUD +- JJ |
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