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sloper_dan
10:09:49 Mon
Nov 14 2005

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bouldering

ok, bouldering is my thing and ive been doing it for a while now, with the odd climb here and there. But i wanna see if anyone knows any good spots other than the ones listed in the bouldering guides, and what are the best problems that you've done, easy or hard. I've gotta say that sloper dan milosevic and who killed the kennedys at the balkans are my 2 favorite.

  
wyt91t
12:32:28 Mon
Nov 14 2005

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Re: bouldering

i must controll my barndoor swings and maybe next time take a toothbrush it might help

  
Cragx
20:21:24 Mon
Nov 14 2005

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Re: bouldering

Hey sloper waht grads you after and where abouts in sydney ya want to go?

  
sloper_dan
23:07:04 Mon
Nov 14 2005

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Re: bouldering

any grade between 5 and 10, and anywhere in nsw

  
Cragx
23:24:39 Mon
Nov 14 2005

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Re: bouldering

Well you could try Mystery rocks and put up a few hardish routes and the wave has a couple, if you want directions to the wave let me know, both are around Castle Hill.

  
sloper_dan
00:06:11 Tue
Nov 15 2005

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Re: bouldering

ok sounds cool man, thatd be great

  
Cragx
02:55:37 Tue
Nov 15 2005

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Re: bouldering

Ill Pm you the details when i get time, also if you dont mind the walk and want hard grades think about Bungonia.....

  
Johan_Vonshizzle
04:07:52 Tue
Nov 15 2005

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Re: bouldering

Too hot for Bungonia but top winter spot for '06 - needs cool temps.
Summer is not the best time to be bouldering in OZ but if you want to, aim for early or late sessions to get OK conditions. Get your hands on the Sydney bouldering guide.

In Sydney, OK summer spots - Crumbly (needs a breeze), Fox Cave,
Villas (early), Wing Cave (early)...anywhere out of the sun with a good breeze and low humidity (very rare in summer).

  
Cragx
04:19:14 Tue
Nov 15 2005

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Re: bouldering

Quote:

if anyone knows any good spots other than the ones listed in the bouldering guides


Dr J, he was after spots not in the guides:smile:
[1 edits; Last edit by Cragx at 04:22:31 Tue Nov 15 2005]

  
Johan_Vonshizzle
04:31:09 Tue
Nov 15 2005

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Re: bouldering

D'oh. OK then.

Jessica's - guide can be found on australianbouldering.com (not in Syd Boulder guide)

OK...it's been a secret for awhile but a new crag has seen some development of late - about 30 problems so far with tonnes of potential for more.
It's called George's Gorge and it's located under the Pheasants Nest bridge on the banks of the Neapen river on the Hume Hwy. (not in Sydney proper but well worth the drive)

Problems ranging from V0-V11. some landings are a bit dodge so crash pads are essential - more the better. The problems are spread over a large area.

Access - Park in the little bay, follow the track down on the left, find the man made wooden stair case - take it down to the river bed. Most problems have been established on the west side across the river and on the east side (both sides of the river). No guide yet but a rough one will be out next winter.




  
bundybear
04:40:00 Tue
Nov 15 2005

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Re: bouldering

Went to 4X the other day. It looks good, but dont have any details of any of the problems. Does anyone have any details...

  
Cragx
05:52:27 Tue
Nov 15 2005

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Re: bouldering

Dr J, what are the cliff faces along there like, from what Ive seen from the hwy passing along they are quite high?...more the west side of the bridge than the east side...hard to tel though when you shoot past at 110km/hr.

  
StuartE
23:20:20 Tue
Nov 15 2005

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Re: bouldering

Quote: Johan_Vonshizzle at 04:31:09 Tue Nov 15 2005


OK...it's been a secret for awhile but a new crag has seen some development of late - about 30 problems so far with tonnes of potential for more.
It's called George's Gorge and it's located under the Pheasants Nest bridge on the banks of the Neapen river on the Hume Hwy. (not in Sydney proper but well worth the drive)


Always inspired for a new area and happy to put in the time cleaning stuff up. Whats it like there? Good size blocks? Rock quality? Nice spot etc.

Cheers

Stu

  
sloper_dan
11:00:33 Thu
Nov 24 2005

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Re: bouldering

hey im gonna go jump on pockets of resistance and milo and kofe at the balkans this sunday anyone care to join me

  
Johan_Vonshizzle
23:29:34 Thu
Nov 24 2005

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Re: bouldering

Stu_E,

coming into summer it's going to be getting too hot for the hard stuff (apart from one small high quality wall - called wave wall)

Rock quality is super - ranges from typical Nowra/Sydney sandstone to really bullet hard limestone like sandstone - There is a classic 8/9 long roof with a top out on this limestone like rock.

Good size blocks - oh yeah..some crazy high ball potential with

Setting - once you move away from the bridge (traffic noise), the gorge is a cool place to hang out. Bungonia is still the the king of kings but for easier access and better range of grades, this place will be a good spot for nexty winter.

I'll probably be getting down there over the Xmas/New Year break for a bit more exploration & cleaning so PM me and I can give you a tour at some stage.

cheers

J

  
Johan_Vonshizzle
23:31:26 Thu
Nov 24 2005

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Re: bouldering

CragX,
Have checked out the upper cliff lines on the western side yet but on the eastern side of the bridge on the north (syd side) side of the gorge, there might be some route potential on the upper 15-20 metre of cliff - some of it looks pretty good.

cheers

J

  
Cragx
23:44:11 Thu
Nov 24 2005

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Re: bouldering

Hmm sounds good, once the M7 orbital goes in could be worth a look....good for the shire men too eh bundy???

  
StuartE
00:16:32 Fri
Nov 25 2005

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Re: bouldering

Quote: Johan_Vonshizzle at 23:29:34 Thu Nov 24 2005

I'll probably be getting down there over the Xmas/New Year break for a bit more exploration & cleaning so PM me and I can give you a tour at some stage.

cheers

J


Thanks for that Johan,

I'll take you up on that offer at some point. Always nice to have potential new venues for the Winter, especially if theres new probs to be had. I'll be adding this onto the list along with Tarana.

Cheers

Stu

[1 edits; Last edit by StuartE at 00:17:09 Fri Nov 25 2005]

  
sloper_dan
00:54:14 Fri
Nov 25 2005

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Re: bouldering

hey guys if you need an extra cleaner or someone else to add a few problems ill be in, sounds like a great area

  
Johan_Vonshizzle
00:59:34 Fri
Nov 25 2005

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Re: bouldering

We'll have to organise a day in Dec/Jan to get a big posse together for a bit of a tour/cleaning/bouldering day...

  
sloper_dan
02:46:16 Fri
Nov 25 2005

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Re: bouldering

yeah for sure, ill be up for it

  
StuartE
03:57:48 Fri
Nov 25 2005

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Re: bouldering

Quote: Johan_Vonshizzle at 00:59:34 Fri Nov 25 2005

We'll have to organise a day in Dec/Jan to get a big posse together for a bit of a tour/cleaning/bouldering day...


Sounds good.

Is there much potential in the way of roofs or steep stuff there in the 8 and above range (apart from the one you mentioned)?

  
Johan_Vonshizzle
04:47:04 Fri
Nov 25 2005

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Re: bouldering

The Wave wall area is basically a small roof into a headwall that tops out. Definitely not Crumbly in size but they pack a punch - ranging from V2 right up to Chris Webb's two test pieces (9 & 11) plus a project throw that Joe Hodgeson has been working on.

My problem (Belle Noire 8/9) is about 12/14 moves long w top out.

One of the 1st bouldering that your come to from the walk in has a few problems in the 6-8 range.

But I have spotted a few other roof areas with easy and hard problems to go further down the east side.

The main thing about the place are some of the landings are a bit dodge so multiple pads are need. And because a bit of boulder hopping is required, it does take a while to negotiate your way down the gorge.

However, I haven't explored the west side that much and access does look a bit better that way.

It puts a bit of adventure in your day out.

The Sydney side of the gorge is pretty much in the shade for most of the day so maybe a good option for summer with a breeze.




  
StuartE
05:00:01 Fri
Nov 25 2005

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Re: bouldering

Right then - I think I'll be down there before xmas if we get any days with a nice big Southerly!

  
picko990
07:20:42 Mon
Aug 30 2010

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Indoor Bumbly

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Re: bouldering

g'day johan. just wondering if you ever got a guide together for georges gorge? driving down to nowra soon and wouldnt mind stopping and having a look.

  

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