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1 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 1 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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bundybear 03:53:19 Fri Apr 30 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
Not a very busy day on the forum, everybody must be out climbing...
Whats the best 21 and 22 sport climbs in the mountains. I need to tick a few more good ones b4 the nowra season. |
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shawkshaw 05:24:14 Fri Apr 30 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator  Reply |
ok,
shipley weak as i am 22, these people are sandwiches 22 porters pass chasing ami 21 so said the king 21 the glen jaws 21 woodpeaker (name??) 22 boyce spoilt brats and gash attacks 21 mt york the go between 22 exhibition wall 21 bardens lady stardust 22 hunky dory 22 low 21 starman 21 hold onto yourself 22 zap 3 21s next to each other in sector 1 renitz pass shamless plug trad exterminator 21 renegade ways 21 plenty more. you at shipley tomorrow? |
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Cragx 06:29:08 Fri Apr 30 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator  Mood Now:  Post Mood:  Reply |
Ruin
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bundybear 07:31:00 Fri Apr 30 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
Thanks Steve,
Yep, Shipley tomorrow at about 9am. Should be a good weekend for climbing, nice and dry. Rod, You did not need to reply to this post, I already knew you your Answer. |
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burroughs 10:00:53 Fri Apr 30 2004 Offline 93 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Shipley will be 'blown out'!! Good places to go in this sort of wind are New York or Atlantis - Atlantis will get hot.
If you go to New York try 'Spanking De Sade' or 'Moan Groan Dial Tone'. If you go to Atlantis only do the stuff on the ledges. Forget the stars - they're wrong!! Dont forget all grades are +/- 1. There will be 23's you'll find easier than some 21's. |
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Cragx 22:47:27 Fri Apr 30 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
I actually dont think Ruin is that great just said it to stir you up.
I reckon War Babies 22 is the pick at Shipley (though my sample of 21 -22's is pretty small) |
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burroughs 08:16:54 Sat May 1 2004 Offline 93 posts Lead Climber Reply |
War Babies is CRAP!
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Cragx 10:07:29 Sat May 1 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Lol, each to there own, I liked it, its got a nice sequence through the crux.
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Cragx 10:16:30 Sat May 1 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Also Mitch, poeple on thecrag.com disagree with ya
war babies Quality Score: 4.9 (out of 7) Moan Groan Dial Tone Quality Score: 4.8 (out of 7) Spanking De Sade Quality Score: 4.7 (out of 7) |
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bundybear 01:21:09 Sun May 2 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
Anyway it was too windy to climb at Shipley on Saturday, I went down anyway to find Josh, but he was not there. (Did u make it Josh). So War Babies will live another day.
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Cragx 01:44:10 Sun May 2 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Nah he had to work, he's up there today though.
Rod |
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bundybear 10:54:44 Sun May 2 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
He's a slack ass, why work when you can climb...
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Steve_M 08:10:29 Mon May 3 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer  Reply |
I'd have too say that these people are sandwiches is all over war babies as a climb. Lardy Ladies Lats is another classic at about the same difficulty.
I don't know if it was just me but weak as I am seemed very tough. |
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WingYing 11:08:40 Mon May 3 2004 Offline 100 posts Lead Climber Reply |
I don't think it's just you. I found "Weak as I am" quite tough on the traverse, then it's crimpers on a good stand repeatedly. And I think "Hot Flyer" is much better than "Lardy's". Lardy's really should be 22 compared to "Weak as I am", and what about "Mental Mantle"?
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burroughs 21:45:53 Mon May 3 2004 Offline 93 posts Lead Climber Reply |
My apologies for the 'crap' outburst! Even the crap climbs at Shipley are good. What I meant was you dont go to Shipley to get on climbs like 'war babies' etc when the whole rest of the wall is looking down on you. Do you?
With regard to thecrag.com, I notice a hell of a lot of mistakes there. Mainly grades! We need to protect the integrity of our grading system - way too many climbs are being overgraded these days. Everyone wants a soft tick. Whatever happened to 'working' for the grade? How good is it sitting in the pub knowing the 'redpoint' you got today was true 23 - hard even, and not some soft overgraded ego booster 21. |
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shawkshaw 22:46:05 Mon May 3 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
i didn't think weak as i 22 was hard. a little pumpy at the anchors but other than one or two crimpy moves at half height ?
er on the side of sand bag i say |
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Steve_M 00:43:59 Tue May 4 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer Reply |
I got on Weak as I am at the end of the day so maybe I didn't have the best judgement on how hard it is.
I have to agree about the soft grades, I don't find it particularly satisfying ticking a climb with wildly inflated grade. If you know it's about 21 what does it matter if someone gave it 23, you know in yourself how hard it was. It seems like one of the consequences of thecrag.com is going to be a massive increase in the popularity of climbs that are overgraded. |
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shawkshaw 00:53:30 Tue May 4 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
you can recify the grades on the crag. i think it is a great website
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trentsadventures 01:19:36 Tue May 4 2004 Offline 97 posts Lead Climber Reply |
i agree. thecrag.com is a great motivator. i strongly support the input of second, third, forth etc ascentionists for a climbs grading. quite a few of the climbs ive established have had the grade changed (raised or lowered) after repeat ascents, the most recent being The Stairs of Cirith Ungol at Glenrock which was down graded from 23 to 22 after repeats saw an edge appear that was covered by lichen during the first ascent. I would prefer my climbs be true to there grade and attract repeats due to good moves rather than have hordes of punters get on it that are just chasing a soft tick. Grades are always going to be subjective. chasing out the soft ticks is going to look good on your ticklist (and im guilty of looking for a softie every now and then) but in the end i want to test myself and there is nothing more satisfying than sending a test piece, true to its grade at your highest limit.
keep crankin' |
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Steve_M 01:40:33 Tue May 4 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer Reply |
Back to an earlier question what about mental mantle ? Those who've got on it, quality ? Difficulty ?
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shawkshaw 02:25:57 Tue May 4 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
apparently its easy for the grade as the crag tells me that 100% of ticks are onsights (haha).
havn't done it but its on the list. |
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bundybear 05:04:44 Tue May 4 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
So SteveM, did you finish Weak as I am. I want to climb at Shipley with Shaun and Lozz on friday, but dont want to waste all day working on one route (I can only climb 21/22). There are so many other classics there.
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Steve_M 07:57:06 Tue May 4 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer Reply |
I got up weak as I am but with a rest. I would say knowing your style it may be one of the harder ones. Lardy Ladies or these people are sandwiches would be better.
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Chris_Y 01:49:56 Wed May 5 2004 Offline 102 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Just to add my, (possibly useless), 10 cents worth, but have to suggest that Weak as I an is really 23 (not 22) as suggested by others and the guide. Myself and many of my climbing companions, fairly solid at this level, all tend to agree on this one.
In relation to the grade thing in the blueys, not accounting for the role thecrag.com perhaps plays these days, much of the wide span of difficulty across single grades is due to Martins bloody guide book. There are many cargs / areas / climbs where he seems to have taken considerable editorial liberties and made the numbers up to suit himself! Examples being - many of Lloyds routes at Big Top... given grades by the first ascentionist and then seemingly amended by Martin. Also some of the routes put up by Martin himself - at some crags the grades are reasonable and others the sandbag factor comes in to play. So at the end of the day those using the current guide only, or those without a sense of history or knowing the characters involved, are left to scratch their heads in confusion. What actually constitutes grade XX now anyway... it wont be until you have clocked up enough of these around the Mountains (varying in style at different crags) to make some sort of judgement... Then you can move on to the next level of confusion... |
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bundybear 02:53:59 Wed May 5 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
Yeah I agree Chris,
Martin's book does seem to favour his own routes or his mates routes. Gives 3 stars to his(mates) routes and other climbs that are classics get none. So Lardys is a hard 22 and Weak as I am is a soft 23??? |
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