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4 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 4 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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shawkshaw 23:45:56 Sun May 9 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
planning on heading back to cosmic soon ans was wondering what routes i should be focusing on. i have been there only once before so haqve done very little. what classics upto 25 should i get on first?
steve |
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Josh_C 01:01:56 Mon May 10 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
interstate 31 (17), id rather be sailing (19), clip or die(21), walking wounded(23), 80 minute hour(18), high angle dangle(22), fear in the western world(22), barbarossa(21), allied chemical news(17),
harder ones= letters to the editor, aesthetic images (both 25) let us know how you go (or if you're going this weekend you could invite me?:smash |
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shawkshaw 01:05:08 Mon May 10 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
any specific personal preferences on routes. thats what im after.
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Steve_M 02:13:05 Mon May 10 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer Reply |
I've been on I'd rather be sailing and Clip or Die. I thought they were okay, but they didn't excite me that much. Except for the lack of gear in the first half of i'd rather be sailing, that got me a bit excited.
After looking at Eighty minute hour and interstate 31 I thought i'd chosen the wrong climbs to do. |
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Chris_Y 02:18:44 Mon May 10 2004 Offline 102 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Steve,
There are great routes scattered all over the cliffs at Cosmic, certainly much of the better stuff is concentrated around the I'd Rather be Sailing / 80 min HR and interstate walls and environs... Just hope you like thin, crimpy, sustained walls either side of the vertical. Some highlights would have to include: Clip or Die / Colditz (typical cosmic wall / slab stuff) Building a better mouse trap (thin - well protected) 80 min Hour - awesome Mindblower (sport & trad all rolled into one) Walking Wounded (although best to preplace most of the gear as some bolts are badly positioned) - can be a frustrating climb as I have found In the flesh / 20 something link up (re-bolted) looks fantastic (have not done) - go down 1st decent gully (39 steps) Barbarossa - amazing wall and many more... Claws selected blueys guide is a really good reference and picks out the best stuff pretty well... also has some useful gear beta... It was a lovely day there on Sat... Chris |
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shawkshaw 02:23:57 Mon May 10 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
>Just hope you like thin, crimpy, sustained walls either >side of the vertical.
are you serious! you got me first shot. if that is the predomiant style then i will be in heaven! |
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Chris_Y 03:10:58 Mon May 10 2004 Offline 102 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
It's just up your alley then! Crimp away and don't forget a fair swag of bolt plates either
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Steve_M 03:19:44 Mon May 10 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer Reply |
I have only been there once so take this with a grain of salt, but I didn't really get into the place with it's ancient bolts and crimpy slabby black sandstone.
This was probably tainted by the fact I had been told it was "the best crag in the mountains". There are some notable exceptions but to me it was nowhere near as inspiring rock or lines as the main wall of shipley or classic piddo lines or lots of other crags about. |
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vwills 09:29:27 Mon May 10 2004 Offline 355 posts Soloer Reply |
Steve
Only been there once: Interstate 31 was the highlight even though I wouldn't consider myself a huge Crack climbing fan although I'm starting to enjoy them more. Easier than Eternity but just as nice. 80 minute hour was good especially as I got my L and R mixed up and traversed in from the R at about Gde 20 with no pro. I'd rather be Sailing is fun but its all in the start. (with dodgy pro) Didn't walk as far as Fear in the Western World but its on the next to do list. I thought it was pretty nice there. When are you going? |
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Duane_M 22:59:34 Mon May 10 2004 Offline 75 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Just to back up Chris Y, had a great day at Cosmic on Saturday. However, I was a bit cocky heading there after a week at Araps and ended up getting spat off Eighty Minute Hour before placing my first bit of pro (which is a fair way off the deck considering the bouldery start) This really undid me. Anyway ended up being a great day out. It's a beautiful spot, very quiet too. Defintely with a good number of days out to be had!
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Steve_M 01:13:48 Tue May 11 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer Reply |
Not all 18's can be as easy as skink I suppose duane.
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bundybear 01:33:40 Tue May 11 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
EMH has a very hard start...
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Duane_M 02:27:49 Tue May 11 2004 Offline 75 posts Lead Climber Reply |
No Steve, perhaps you should try the route the proper way (none of this traverse in bizo!). Are you suggesting that 18 is undergraded on Skink? hmmmm point of contention for such a iconic climb yes?
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Duane_M 02:55:23 Tue May 11 2004 Offline 75 posts Lead Climber Reply |
How was Medlow Bath on the w/end Steve M?
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Steve_M 03:51:25 Tue May 11 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer Reply |
Medlow's a great little crag. A great one if you've got some begginners with you to. Easily accessible and can be top roped
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Chris_Y 04:11:22 Tue May 11 2004 Offline 102 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
EMH does have a hard start... and doesn't seem to get any easier (even after having climbed the thing 3-4 times)...
Perhaps the grade shoud be V1-18 (V1 boulder problem for the 1st 5 metres, then lovely 18 climbing for the next 25m??)... be sure to start in the right place though folks... and no cheatin ya'all! |
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shawkshaw 22:55:14 Thu Jul 27 2006 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
reviving old topic. am hoping to head back here tomorrow. bring on the county!!!
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RJS 23:32:19 Thu Jul 27 2006 Offline 9 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Asthetic images 25 - absolute heaven
Alhelal 24 - just as good Gentleman's Drag 23 a ton of rock fell down over this ? maybe full of sand? Comfortably Numb - lovely bit of trad have fun !!! |
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shawkshaw 23:52:07 Thu Jul 27 2006 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
im keen to try one of the 25's out there. which one should i get on first
letter to the editor Asthetic Images or Toyland. they all look so good. |
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shawkshaw 23:02:32 Sun Jul 30 2006 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
we got on toyland. CLASSIC!!
i was to soft to finish it off but will be back to get back on this awesome piece of climbing. get down there and get on it. its quality climbing with a necky finish. |
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duncan_donuts 11:18:47 Mon Jul 31 2006 Offline 56 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Does I'd rather be sailing still have dust and rock from the avalanche above it?
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Onsight 13:29:21 Mon Jul 31 2006 Offline 48 posts Outdoor Climber Reply |
Yeah Toyland is awesome! Glad to hear you got on that one. Make sure you do the direct... Tried Letters once, didn't think it was as good as it looks. Haven't been on AI, I don't think anyway... |
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shawkshaw 22:29:14 Mon Jul 31 2006 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
the whole area above the id rather be sailing is covered in loose rocks etc. looks fairly unstable. certainly the cable between clip or die and id rather be sailing area is no longer useable.
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