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shawkshaw
23:45:56 Sun
May 9 2004

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must do routes at cosmic

planning on heading back to cosmic soon ans was wondering what routes i should be focusing on. i have been there only once before so haqve done very little. what classics upto 25 should i get on first?

steve

  
Josh_C
01:01:56 Mon
May 10 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

interstate 31 (17), id rather be sailing (19), clip or die(21), walking wounded(23), 80 minute hour(18), high angle dangle(22), fear in the western world(22), barbarossa(21), allied chemical news(17),

harder ones= letters to the editor, aesthetic images (both 25)
let us know how you go (or if you're going this weekend you could invite me?:smash:smile:

  
shawkshaw
01:05:08 Mon
May 10 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

any specific personal preferences on routes. thats what im after.

  
Steve_M
02:13:05 Mon
May 10 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

I've been on I'd rather be sailing and Clip or Die. I thought they were okay, but they didn't excite me that much. Except for the lack of gear in the first half of i'd rather be sailing, that got me a bit excited.

After looking at Eighty minute hour and interstate 31 I thought i'd chosen the wrong climbs to do.

  
Chris_Y
02:18:44 Mon
May 10 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

Steve,

There are great routes scattered all over the cliffs at Cosmic, certainly much of the better stuff is concentrated around the I'd Rather be Sailing / 80 min HR and interstate walls and environs...
Just hope you like thin, crimpy, sustained walls either side of the vertical.
Some highlights would have to include:
Clip or Die / Colditz (typical cosmic wall / slab stuff)
Building a better mouse trap (thin - well protected)
80 min Hour - awesome
Mindblower (sport & trad all rolled into one)
Walking Wounded (although best to preplace most of the gear as some bolts are badly positioned) - can be a frustrating climb as I have found
In the flesh / 20 something link up (re-bolted) looks fantastic (have not done) - go down 1st decent gully (39 steps)
Barbarossa - amazing wall
and many more...

Claws selected blueys guide is a really good reference and picks out the best stuff pretty well... also has some useful gear beta...
It was a lovely day there on Sat...

Chris

  
shawkshaw
02:23:57 Mon
May 10 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

>Just hope you like thin, crimpy, sustained walls either >side of the vertical.

are you serious! you got me first shot. if that is the predomiant style then i will be in heaven!

  
Chris_Y
03:10:58 Mon
May 10 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

It's just up your alley then! Crimp away and don't forget a fair swag of bolt plates either

  
Steve_M
03:19:44 Mon
May 10 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

I have only been there once so take this with a grain of salt, but I didn't really get into the place with it's ancient bolts and crimpy slabby black sandstone.

This was probably tainted by the fact I had been told it was "the best crag in the mountains". There are some notable exceptions but to me it was nowhere near as inspiring rock or lines as the main wall of shipley or classic piddo lines or lots of other crags about.


  
vwills
09:29:27 Mon
May 10 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

Steve
Only been there once:
Interstate 31 was the highlight even though I wouldn't consider myself a huge Crack climbing fan although I'm starting to enjoy them more. Easier than Eternity but just as nice.
80 minute hour was good especially as I got my L and R mixed up and traversed in from the R at about Gde 20 with no pro.
I'd rather be Sailing is fun but its all in the start. (with dodgy pro)
Didn't walk as far as Fear in the Western World but its on the next to do list.
I thought it was pretty nice there. When are you going?

  
Duane_M
22:59:34 Mon
May 10 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

Just to back up Chris Y, had a great day at Cosmic on Saturday. However, I was a bit cocky heading there after a week at Araps and ended up getting spat off Eighty Minute Hour before placing my first bit of pro (which is a fair way off the deck considering the bouldery start) This really undid me. Anyway ended up being a great day out. It's a beautiful spot, very quiet too. Defintely with a good number of days out to be had!

  
Steve_M
01:13:48 Tue
May 11 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

Not all 18's can be as easy as skink I suppose duane.

  
bundybear
01:33:40 Tue
May 11 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

EMH has a very hard start...
[1 edits; Last edit by bundybear at 01:34:08 Tue May 11 2004]

  
Duane_M
02:27:49 Tue
May 11 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

No Steve, perhaps you should try the route the proper way (none of this traverse in bizo!). Are you suggesting that 18 is undergraded on Skink? hmmmm point of contention for such a iconic climb yes?

  
Duane_M
02:55:23 Tue
May 11 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

How was Medlow Bath on the w/end Steve M?

  
Steve_M
03:51:25 Tue
May 11 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

Medlow's a great little crag. A great one if you've got some begginners with you to. Easily accessible and can be top roped

  
Chris_Y
04:11:22 Tue
May 11 2004

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

EMH does have a hard start... and doesn't seem to get any easier (even after having climbed the thing 3-4 times)...
Perhaps the grade shoud be V1-18 (V1 boulder problem for the 1st 5 metres, then lovely 18 climbing for the next 25m??)... be sure to start in the right place though folks... and no cheatin ya'all!

  
shawkshaw
22:55:14 Thu
Jul 27 2006

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

reviving old topic. am hoping to head back here tomorrow. bring on the county!!!


  
RJS
23:32:19 Thu
Jul 27 2006

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

Asthetic images 25 - absolute heaven

Alhelal 24 - just as good

Gentleman's Drag 23
a ton of rock fell down over this ? maybe full of sand?

Comfortably Numb - lovely bit of trad

have fun !!!

  
shawkshaw
23:52:07 Thu
Jul 27 2006

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

im keen to try one of the 25's out there. which one should i get on first

letter to the editor
Asthetic Images or
Toyland.

they all look so good.


  
shawkshaw
23:02:32 Sun
Jul 30 2006

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

we got on toyland. CLASSIC!!

i was to soft to finish it off but will be back to get back on this awesome piece of climbing. get down there and get on it. its quality climbing with a necky finish.

  
duncan_donuts
11:18:47 Mon
Jul 31 2006

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

Does I'd rather be sailing still have dust and rock from the avalanche above it?

  
Onsight
13:29:21 Mon
Jul 31 2006

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

Quote: shawkshaw at 23:02:32 Sun Jul 30 2006

we got on toyland. CLASSIC!!


Yeah Toyland is awesome! Glad to hear you got on that one. Make sure you do the direct...

Tried Letters once, didn't think it was as good as it looks. Haven't been on AI, I don't think anyway...

  
shawkshaw
22:29:14 Mon
Jul 31 2006

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Re: must do routes at cosmic

the whole area above the id rather be sailing is covered in loose rocks etc. looks fairly unstable. certainly the cable between clip or die and id rather be sailing area is no longer useable.

  

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