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tom_brennan
03:18:41 Fri
Dec 3 2004

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Outdoor Bumbly

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Climb popularity by grade

I was interested by Roger's comment in the What if you don't need the bolts? thread in the Rebolting forum. He said "I would that my fully ring bolted 23+ routes were as popular as the <16 ones!", which got me thinking.

Does anyone have any statistics (anecdotal - I'm sure there are no actual ones) on what grade of climbs are the most popular (by number of ascents).

I had a flick through the Pircher/Carter guide to get a rough indicator of grade popularity by number of climbs. I've used their grade groupings, but grouped the <14s in 3s for a more meaningful comparison.

Using their grade groupings, the clear winner was 21-23, with 18-20 nudging out 24-26 for second. 15-17 is next, followed by 12-14, 27-29, 9-11, 6-8 and 30-32. Not much point in going any further.

So for popularity by number of ascents, my guess would probably be

  • 15-17
  • 18-20
  • 12-14
  • 21-23
  • 9-11
and then the rest. But including commercial groups, I wouldn't be surprised if 12-14 and/or 9-11 were higher.

Which is why I think that Roger's development of some easier climbs is great. Because despite the number of 24+ climbs out there (based on the guide), I reckon most of the traffic is elsewhere.

Interested to know other people's thoughts.

cheers
Tom
PS: I'm aware that if I used the SRC Upper Blue Mountains guide I would possibly get a different distribution ... but it would have been a bugger to count!
----
tomb@ozultimate.com
Canyoning? try http://ozultimate.com/canyoning
Bushwalking? try http://ozultimate.com/bushwalking

  
shawkshaw
03:24:15 Fri
Dec 3 2004

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Re: Climb popularity by grade

from the crag.com tick of asutralia peak at grade 18. see attached image

edit: image doesn't have anything in it. doh. any way it is sort of like a bell curve although there is a marked jump up at grade 14 and it peaks at 18 then more or less constantly decreases with difficulty. go to the australia stats page of the crag and it will be there.
[1 edits; Last edit by shawkshaw at 03:26:26 Fri Dec 3 2004]



[ Attached File: climbprofile.gif - downloaded 10 times]
  
Goodvibes
03:49:11 Fri
Dec 3 2004

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roped joker

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Re: Climb popularity by grade

Interesting stuff. I always used to find myself scanning the guide for moderte/easy grade sport routes. There are not all that many around although that is changing somewhat due to the unselfish efforts of a few developers.

In regards to sport climbing it seems that in the Blueys when you can climb 23+ there are so many more options available. I guess there are quite a few from grade 18 and up but there is definetely a very small number in the lower grades. How many grade 14-16 routes in the Blueys do you know of that are really suitable for a beginner to lead??

Having a greater number of safe routes in the lower grades makes it so much easier for those starting climbing to move on to lead climbing much earlier than they would have done in the past.

  
Cragx
05:11:08 Fri
Dec 3 2004

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Post Mood: Adventurous

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Re: Climb popularity by grade

Basically you normally have been climbing for a few years before you develop sport routes (just how it normally works out). You tend to spy lines around your upper limit to bolt as they will give you a higher challenge/fun to cost ratio.

Lucky for a few, I climb like shit so my upper limit for new route is in the low moderate grades, but i think you'll find Im the exception to the rule.

Safest sport route in the mountains, The Anzac Spirit, Sahara point 27m of garde 13 juggy slab. I got a bit carried away with the drill that day:smile:

  
vwills
04:10:15 Thu
Dec 9 2004

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Soloer

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Re: Climb popularity by grade

Will we expect a spate of bolted 12-14s when you are finally allowed to use your shoulder again?

  
Cragx
04:17:56 Thu
Dec 9 2004

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Re: Climb popularity by grade

Nah they probably be to hard for me by then :sad:

  

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