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7 people online in the last 15 minutes - 1 members, 0 anon and 6 guests. (Most ever was 44 at 07:48:50 Tue Oct 9 2007) pezz |
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bundybear 21:29:10 Tue Dec 21 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
Last night at the crag we were discussing the ethics of Soloing.
If you use a bouldering mat or a spotter can the climb still be claimed as a solo (is this is protection), or, is a solo only valid where there are no mats, spotters, or protection of any other sort.. |
hatman  21:52:43 Tue Dec 21 2004 Offline 563 posts Rock God  Mood Now:  Reply |
Me thinks the word solo means by ones self - individualy - with out others, there for a spoter would be concidered an aid. If a mat is present then realy your probably bouldering as a fall from a decent solo climb would buger you up mat or not, unless you are just starting up it.
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Nick_Clow 22:02:31 Tue Dec 21 2004 Offline 180 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Hey Bundy
In my (not very) humble opinion if you use a mat (or spotter I guess) then you haven't soloed it. Personally speaking, anything I regard as having soloed (and have put on thecrag as a 'solo') is without a mat. In the UK where some solos are of ambiguous height (ie. route or highball?) then 'SWM' ie. 'soloed with mat' is sometimes used in guidebooks etc to distinguish this style of ascent from a true solo. |
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Goodvibes 22:44:46 Tue Dec 21 2004 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now:  Reply |
I have posted this elswhere but I think it is a reasonable definition.
If you are prepared to fall it is bouldering. If you are not prepared to fall then it is soloing. Simple as that. |
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Steve_M 23:55:49 Tue Dec 21 2004 Offline 421 posts Onsight Soloer  Reply |
Nice to meet you last night Nick (good to see some of you new routing on the bouldering wall :rotflmao
 There needs to be a distinction between unprotected climbing and just climbing by yourself. Both are solo climbing but very different styles. Matheson soloed those two routes in a day up Buffalo aid and lead climbing, it's definitely solo (by one's self). For pure unprotected climbing, mats have to be considered some sort of pro, or else I could have one of those massive stunt mats that they fall out of buildings onto(how good would that be), under a climb and still think it's solo. |
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Nick_Clow 04:16:24 Wed Dec 22 2004 Offline 180 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Har har
and quality 'routes' they are (not).... I dunno about yr defn, Goodvibes, plenty of bouldering (in the modern idiom) is non-falloffable. Take some of the bouldering at the Fear Factory for example..... |
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Cragx 04:24:00 Wed Dec 22 2004 Offline 2020 posts Administrator  Mood Now:  Post Mood:  Reply |
Im never prepared to fall, its somthing that just happens (alot)...personally I blame gravity |
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Goodvibes 04:48:36 Wed Dec 22 2004 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now: Reply |
The boundary is always blury, perhaps those kind of problems could also be described as mini routes. With bouldering you plan on falling, you generally have mats, spotters etc, you may not want to fall but you take it into consideration, with soloing it is completely out of the equation.
It is up to the individual. One persons highball is another persons free solo. |
wyt91t  15:56:56 Wed Dec 22 2004 Offline 657 posts boulder hound Reply |
well today i saw on fox the first solo on a climb called old man by some woman cant remember exact where it was or by who but thiis lady was 3 months pregnant and her father was there filming if that helps jog somones memory. solos the first and i think second then shes pulls a rope out of her pack along with a gri-gri she has modifyed onto a chest harness belaing her climbas she goes then the last pitch was done with no rope she was on a 100meter climb it was also near water . to me she did not acheive her first solo record of that climb that was just plan cheating allthough she thinks different.
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Goodvibes 20:55:01 Wed Dec 22 2004 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now: Reply |
Was she claiming a free solo or rope solo?
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wyt91t 11:20:22 Thu Dec 23 2004 Offline 657 posts boulder hound Reply |
a free solo
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DangerLaef 23:00:38 Mon Jan 10 2005 Offline 19 posts Outdoor Bumbly Mood Now:  Post Mood: Reply |
"a climb called old man"
Old Man of Hoy, off the Orkney Islands of Scotland, a gigantic sea stack rising 450 feet straight out of the ocean. "by some woman" Catherine Destivelle - Google is your friend. I seriously doubt Ms Destivelle would claim a roped solo as a free-solo, with video evidence to the contrary being broadcast round the globe. Catherine Destivelle, known as the world best female climber between 1985 and 1988, has also climbed the first free ascent of Nameless Tower in Pakistan and has solo climbed the North Faces of the Matterhorn and the Eiger in winter, so she does have a smidgen of credibility. Other achievements: 1986: 1st female 8a+ 1986 1988: repeated 5.13c in 1988 1990: 1st female solo ascent, Bonatti pillar in the Drus in 4 hour 1993: winter solo of the North Face of the Grandes Jorasse |
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Goodvibes 23:11:55 Mon Jan 10 2005 Offline 799 posts roped joker Mood Now: Reply |
If there was any confusion as to any of the claims being made it would no doubt be due to the usual cluelessness of the media when it comes to climbing. As pointed out above, Catherine Destiville is a hugely accomplished and respected all around climber. No need for her to claim any bogus ascents.
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