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madtaffy
21:58:50 Sat
Dec 20 2008

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Gym Bunny Spray Lord

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The Phoenix

Climbed The Phoenix in the Megalong yesterday. Been looking at it for a while when driving down the hill. Here's my additions to the Blueys guide that may help if you are interested in doing it and make it a bit less scary and safer than when I did it!
1. Bushbash up the hill from the Coachwood Glen trail about 25 mins. There's no real track now.
2. Take about 10 cams from 1/2" to 1" for the finger locking on the slab and above the offwidth. Green/yellow aliens and blue/green HB quadcam size.
3. A #5 cam may even be useful on the offwidth. A #4 just fits but you have to clean a fair bit of dirt out to get a good placemant. Even two #4's might make it a bit more easy on the mind! keep the big cam for the offwidth, don't use it lower down!
4. Don't get lulled into thinking it's a pushover when looking up from the bottom and doing the initial crack!
5. Make sure your ropes are at least 50m long.
6. Try not to drink 10 schooners the night before.
7. Classic old style route. Fair bit of grass and dirt in the crack but not really where the gear is going and where the holds are.
8. Sheltered from the wind, shady in the morning, sun in the arvo.
I bet you sport climbers are just chomping at the bit to go give it a go!
Little Drummer Boy and Firefly are worth doing while up there.

  
Nick_Kaz
22:50:47 Sun
Dec 21 2008

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584 posts
Rock God


Mood Now: Bored
Post Mood: Bored

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Re: The Phoenix

VW said it was shit.

  
Cragx
00:05:57 Mon
Dec 22 2008

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Mood Now: Jamming
Post Mood: Jamming

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Re: The Phoenix

Shes just getting soft.

  
bundybear
02:59:21 Mon
Dec 22 2008

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1322 posts
Net addict - someone take me climbing


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Re: The Phoenix

Quote: madtaffy at 21:58:50 Sat Dec 20 2008

6. Try not to drink 10 schooners the night before.


Sounds Awesome !

  
vwills
05:59:35 Tue
Dec 23 2008

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355 posts
Soloer

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Re: The Phoenix

9. Make sure climbing partner is still stupefied by booze and thinks vegetated dirty line in soft crumbly rock looks attractive. Let him lead. (Guaranteed to cure hangover).

Actually parts of the route were quite nice (about 15 metres of it) but vegetation has regrown a lot and was kind of in the way....


  
madtaffy
08:54:19 Tue
Dec 23 2008

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467 posts
Gym Bunny Spray Lord

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Re: The Phoenix

It was actually 4 schooners a middy and a six pack. Think I would have fallen off if I had upgraded that middy to a scooby.

  
junglejim
04:54:04 Fri
Nov 14 2014

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14 posts
Outdoor Bumbly

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Re: The Phoenix

All past usedbydate

  

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