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5 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 5 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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nmonteith 06:50:22 Wed Sep 24 2008 Offline 118 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Now that I am a inner-west local I've been spending a bit of time at the mini crag at Earlwood. Some good fun routes, problems and solos to be sure! Some of the bolts are dodgy, or just plain missing so I have begun the slow process of rebolting them. Today I began with...
The Count (19) - Removed three bash in carrots and recycled holes using stainless U-bolts. Added lower-off at top of slab finish. Bolts were very loose in the holes, a few twists of a spanner and they plopped out. They were not filed in anyway. Warm It Up (20) - Replaced the single carrot bolt that was still in place with a U-bolt. Was there originally a bolt lower than this one ? Or above it? Whistling in the Dark (21) - Removed first bolt (easily) but ran out of glue to replace it. In the next week or so I plan to add a few more U-bolts along the top ledge to use as lower-offs and top-rope anchors + rebolt Fascination Street, Transfixed, B and Whistling in the Dark. The rest of the routes seem to be in ok shape at the moment. |
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nmonteith 03:42:37 Thu Sep 25 2008 Offline 118 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
2nd day on the job...
Rebolted Whistling in the Dark (3 U-bolts), and Meat Puppets (2 U-bolts). Also fixed anchor above these (now 2 Ubolts and chain). Also added two new glue in carrots above Cornered Again. |
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shawkshaw 08:21:28 Thu Sep 25 2008 Offline 1343 posts Administrator  Reply |
nice work. in the city less than a month and already sorting out the crags!
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tnd 08:06:01 Sun Sep 28 2008 Offline 61 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Warm it Up originally had two bolts. If you look the hole should be there somewhere - up high I seem to remember.
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nmonteith 09:51:06 Wed Oct 8 2008 Offline 118 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Transfixed (25) has been fixed (well the first three bolts anyway) as has Fascination Street (25) - three bolts. Also added a good belay bolt above Fascination Street for top-rope purposes. Sweet! There is lots of mozzies after dark....
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petey_w 01:40:16 Thu Oct 9 2008 Offline 127 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Hi Neil,
If you get bored with Earlwood. Joll's Bridge up our way could do with a retro bolt, plenty of mozzies there if you like that sort of thing  Keep up the good work (even though I am unlikely to ever visit the inner city suburban crags...) Pete. |
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Trinity333 10:04:40 Fri Oct 10 2008 Offline 75 posts Lead Climber Reply |
>"plenty of mozzies"<
The one and only time i went there there sure were alot of mozzies, and also about 3 ticks for everyone of them! |
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Nick_Kaz 11:59:48 Fri Oct 10 2008 Offline 584 posts Rock God  Mood Now:  Post Mood: Reply |
three ticks isn't a bad day out. better than three dogs...
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nmonteith 10:06:04 Mon Oct 13 2008 Offline 118 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
I appears someone else has been doing some rebolting (retro-bolting) down at Earlwood in the last week. There are three new rings up the right side of the arete Warm It Up (grade 20?). I soloed this a few months back, as I imagine lots of others have in the past. On the wall left of Transfixed there is now a line of 4 rings and a lower-off (low 20s I presume?). Ramset 101 glue. More disturbingly over at the bouldering area there appears to be some nasty tree removal cleaning on the right side of the slab with the bolts. There is now the remnants of a tree stump halfway up the cliff. Not pretty! I'm about to update the guide with photo topos ect so it would be good to get the route descriptions for these new routes!
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nmonteith 05:01:19 Tue Oct 14 2008 Offline 118 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Topos online at ACA - not sure if I should add descriptions. The Sydney online guide seems pretty out of date and missing at least a third of the routes (and the boulder problems). Are the boulder problems in print anywhere - i see a few names on thecrag.com but have no idea what they refer to...
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=1341 |
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rabbitoh 06:22:36 Tue Oct 14 2008 Offline 202 posts Onsight Specialist Mood Now:  Post Mood: Reply |
The Sydney online guide has a page for adding new routes and another for adding new crags. You just fill it in and hit enter.
If people use this function, the guide wont be out of date. |
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nmonteith 06:40:12 Tue Oct 14 2008 Offline 118 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
The entry page isn't very useful for corrections though. An email to Peter Monks is probably best. I sent him one a month ago but I don't think he updates the guide more than once a year by the looks of previous 'news' on that site.
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glebechris 10:12:58 Tue Oct 14 2008 Offline 3 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Neil... is there any other access apart from via Fauna street. I know it isn't much of a walk in but since you are virtually adjacent to roads to the north can you make it in from there.
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nmonteith 10:39:00 Tue Oct 14 2008 Offline 118 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Funny you should ask! I thought it must be easier to get in as well so armed with a print-out from Google Earth I went looking yesterday. The answer is no. It's all private property with no public access on the northern edge of that park. Every driveway that looked promising had a 'private property - killer dog' sign. I even tried walking from the crag directly up to the road - but you hit a line of large fences and more private property signs. I tried coming in from the small road called "The Walk" but that involved a little used steep downhill scramble - it didn't save any time. Fauna Road is the way to go - its less than 10 minutes anyway.
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glebechris 10:45:08 Tue Oct 14 2008 Offline 3 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Neil... is there any other access apart from via Fauna street. I know it isn't much of a walk in but since you are virtually adjacent to roads to the north can you make it in from there.
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nmonteith 11:37:01 Tue Oct 14 2008 Offline 118 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Read above!
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TonyB 23:16:28 Sun Nov 9 2008 Offline 83 posts Lead Climber Reply |
It would be worth having a local ask the local council to remove all the graffiti that pathetic morons have scrawed over the walls.
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Cragx 01:33:42 Mon Nov 10 2008 Offline 2051 posts Administrator  Mood Now:  Post Mood: Reply |
All the new chalk should cover it as the hordes flock to the new rebolted mega crag.
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Trinity333 10:21:33 Mon Nov 10 2008 Offline 75 posts Lead Climber Reply |
That's some top work out there at Earlwood, Neil.
Forget about Jolls Bridge, for your next project you should get out and fix up the Railway Cliffs. I think it's a sorely overlooked summertime destination that urgently needs a heap of rings. |
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oldandbroken 22:20:13 Mon Nov 10 2008 Offline 432 posts Onsight Soloer Reply |
I think contacting the council re. graffiti could be a bad idea. Firstly authority generally does not like rockclimbing unless it makes money out of it. Secondly, cragx jokingly refered to this, is that in a non-climbers eyes chalk and bolts could very well be seen as graffiti.
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bundybear 22:28:23 Mon Nov 10 2008 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
I find this quite frustrating, I have sent heaps of emails on new updates to climbs in the shire (both new climbs and rebolting) but the website is never updated. I thought the whole idea of having this info on the web is so that it can be easily and quickly updated. This is not the case with sydneyclimbing.com so i have just given up on it and added the details the climb.org.au. Even the front page of the website states "The reasons for deciding to put the guide online are pretty obvious: it's easy to keep the information up to date". Lets get the details correct and keep it updated, its such a shame to waste a great resource. |
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Cragx 00:32:54 Tue Nov 11 2008 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
I think hes still in the USA and does an update every six months or so...ie when he has time. Its not on a database so it would be pretty time consuming to keep updated...maybe just add your crag to the aca website, being a public database its way easier to keep updated.
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bundybear 01:42:24 Tue Nov 11 2008 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
Yes - Indeed Rod.
The last update was dated 10th March 2007, friggen 18 months ago. They say that 1 computer year = 20 human years, so that makes the site, 30 years old. Lets get it updated !!! |
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TonyB 19:54:51 Tue Nov 11 2008 Offline 83 posts Lead Climber Reply |
I think it's more about power than money. ... but the power brokers don't like graffiti either ... the penalty is now 3 months jail for owning a spray can with intent and 6 months jail for using it on walls. |
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