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nmonteith
06:50:22 Wed
Sep 24 2008

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Earlwood Rebolting

Now that I am a inner-west local I've been spending a bit of time at the mini crag at Earlwood. Some good fun routes, problems and solos to be sure! Some of the bolts are dodgy, or just plain missing so I have begun the slow process of rebolting them. Today I began with...

The Count (19) - Removed three bash in carrots and recycled holes using stainless U-bolts. Added lower-off at top of slab finish. Bolts were very loose in the holes, a few twists of a spanner and they plopped out. They were not filed in anyway.

Warm It Up (20) - Replaced the single carrot bolt that was still in place with a U-bolt. Was there originally a bolt lower than this one ? Or above it?

Whistling in the Dark (21) - Removed first bolt (easily) but ran out of glue to replace it.

In the next week or so I plan to add a few more U-bolts along the top ledge to use as lower-offs and top-rope anchors + rebolt Fascination Street, Transfixed, B and Whistling in the Dark. The rest of the routes seem to be in ok shape at the moment.



  
nmonteith
03:42:37 Thu
Sep 25 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

2nd day on the job...

Rebolted Whistling in the Dark (3 U-bolts), and Meat Puppets (2 U-bolts). Also fixed anchor above these (now 2 Ubolts and chain). Also added two new glue in carrots above Cornered Again.

  
shawkshaw
08:21:28 Thu
Sep 25 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

nice work. in the city less than a month and already sorting out the crags!

  
tnd
08:06:01 Sun
Sep 28 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Warm it Up originally had two bolts. If you look the hole should be there somewhere - up high I seem to remember.

  
nmonteith
09:51:06 Wed
Oct 8 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Transfixed (25) has been fixed (well the first three bolts anyway) as has Fascination Street (25) - three bolts. Also added a good belay bolt above Fascination Street for top-rope purposes. Sweet! There is lots of mozzies after dark....

  
petey_w
01:40:16 Thu
Oct 9 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Hi Neil,

If you get bored with Earlwood. Joll's Bridge up our way could do with a retro bolt, plenty of mozzies there if you like that sort of thing :smile:

Keep up the good work (even though I am unlikely to ever visit the inner city suburban crags...)

Pete.

  
Trinity333
10:04:40 Fri
Oct 10 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

>"plenty of mozzies"<

The one and only time i went there there sure were alot of mozzies, and also about 3 ticks for everyone of them!


  
Nick_Kaz
11:59:48 Fri
Oct 10 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

three ticks isn't a bad day out. better than three dogs...

  
nmonteith
10:06:04 Mon
Oct 13 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

I appears someone else has been doing some rebolting (retro-bolting) down at Earlwood in the last week. There are three new rings up the right side of the arete Warm It Up (grade 20?). I soloed this a few months back, as I imagine lots of others have in the past. On the wall left of Transfixed there is now a line of 4 rings and a lower-off (low 20s I presume?). Ramset 101 glue. More disturbingly over at the bouldering area there appears to be some nasty tree removal cleaning on the right side of the slab with the bolts. There is now the remnants of a tree stump halfway up the cliff. Not pretty! I'm about to update the guide with photo topos ect so it would be good to get the route descriptions for these new routes!

  
nmonteith
05:01:19 Tue
Oct 14 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Topos online at ACA - not sure if I should add descriptions. The Sydney online guide seems pretty out of date and missing at least a third of the routes (and the boulder problems). Are the boulder problems in print anywhere - i see a few names on thecrag.com but have no idea what they refer to...
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=1341

  
rabbitoh
06:22:36 Tue
Oct 14 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

The Sydney online guide has a page for adding new routes and another for adding new crags. You just fill it in and hit enter.

If people use this function, the guide wont be out of date.

  
nmonteith
06:40:12 Tue
Oct 14 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

The entry page isn't very useful for corrections though. An email to Peter Monks is probably best. I sent him one a month ago but I don't think he updates the guide more than once a year by the looks of previous 'news' on that site.

  
glebechris
10:12:58 Tue
Oct 14 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Neil... is there any other access apart from via Fauna street. I know it isn't much of a walk in but since you are virtually adjacent to roads to the north can you make it in from there.

  
nmonteith
10:39:00 Tue
Oct 14 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Funny you should ask! I thought it must be easier to get in as well so armed with a print-out from Google Earth I went looking yesterday. The answer is no. It's all private property with no public access on the northern edge of that park. Every driveway that looked promising had a 'private property - killer dog' sign. I even tried walking from the crag directly up to the road - but you hit a line of large fences and more private property signs. I tried coming in from the small road called "The Walk" but that involved a little used steep downhill scramble - it didn't save any time. Fauna Road is the way to go - its less than 10 minutes anyway.

  
glebechris
10:45:08 Tue
Oct 14 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Neil... is there any other access apart from via Fauna street. I know it isn't much of a walk in but since you are virtually adjacent to roads to the north can you make it in from there.

  
nmonteith
11:37:01 Tue
Oct 14 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Read above!

  
TonyB
23:16:28 Sun
Nov 9 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

It would be worth having a local ask the local council to remove all the graffiti that pathetic morons have scrawed over the walls.

  
Cragx
01:33:42 Mon
Nov 10 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

All the new chalk should cover it as the hordes flock to the new rebolted mega crag.

  
Trinity333
10:21:33 Mon
Nov 10 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

That's some top work out there at Earlwood, Neil.

Forget about Jolls Bridge, for your next project you should get out and fix up the Railway Cliffs. I think it's a sorely overlooked summertime destination that urgently needs a heap of rings.

  
oldandbroken
22:20:13 Mon
Nov 10 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

I think contacting the council re. graffiti could be a bad idea. Firstly authority generally does not like rockclimbing unless it makes money out of it. Secondly, cragx jokingly refered to this, is that in a non-climbers eyes chalk and bolts could very well be seen as graffiti.

  
bundybear
22:28:23 Mon
Nov 10 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Quote: nmonteith at 06:40:12 Tue Oct 14 2008

The entry page isn't very useful for corrections though. An email to Peter Monks is probably best. I sent him one a month ago but I don't think he updates the guide more than once a year by the looks of previous 'news' on that site.


I find this quite frustrating, I have sent heaps of emails on new updates to climbs in the shire (both new climbs and rebolting) but the website is never updated. I thought the whole idea of having this info on the web is so that it can be easily and quickly updated. This is not the case with sydneyclimbing.com so i have just given up on it and added the details the climb.org.au.

Even the front page of the website states "The reasons for deciding to put the guide online are pretty obvious: it's easy to keep the information up to date".

Lets get the details correct and keep it updated, its such a shame to waste a great resource.


  
Cragx
00:32:54 Tue
Nov 11 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

I think hes still in the USA and does an update every six months or so...ie when he has time. Its not on a database so it would be pretty time consuming to keep updated...maybe just add your crag to the aca website, being a public database its way easier to keep updated.

  
bundybear
01:42:24 Tue
Nov 11 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Yes - Indeed Rod.

The last update was dated 10th March 2007, friggen 18 months ago.

They say that 1 computer year = 20 human years, so that makes the site, 30 years old.

Lets get it updated !!!


  
TonyB
19:54:51 Tue
Nov 11 2008

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Re: Earlwood Rebolting

Quote:

Firstly authority generally does not like rockclimbing unless it makes money out of it.

I think it's more about power than money.
... but the power brokers don't like graffiti either ... the penalty is now 3 months jail for owning a spray can with intent and 6 months jail for using it on walls.

  

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