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petey_w
09:01:33 Mon
Jan 25 2010

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Re: Jolls Bridge Rebolting?

Get on LW and SOAG both on Us + double U anchors and great climbs with safe falls and easy to dog. Just watch the weak rock on the first couple of moves (never broken any myself, but I reckon your shins would be stinging if you did). Also recommend not clipping the mantle bolt until you are above the ledge or use a long sling / plenty of slack - seen a rope needing a chop after zipping across the edge. Plenty of gold there if you are willing to work a little harder.

Teddy (18) [mixed] is also quite good, but I would recommend rap inspecting it as the middle slabby part was a little run out / dirty when I did it (nothing a long pre placed sling wouldn't fix.

Cracken up (22) [mixed] next door is a cracker. There is a big tree at the top where you can set up a rap rope and siege till your heart's content. Different to your standard face climbing.



  
vwills
05:08:32 Thu
Jan 28 2010

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Re: Jolls Bridge Rebolting?

Pete
I disagree to some extent. Getting on something several grades harder than you are at your limit on is likely to result in injury (even sports routes). And though I'm not the worlds best crack climber I found Crackn Up(22) way harder than the Hawkesbury connection(25) though its meant to be 3 grades easier! And Son of a Gun was the first soft Paul Riviere climb Ive ever done-its certainly not a 26.
It is easy to top rope/ headpoint routes around Bad Luck Silverback(19). Suggest this route, Natie Head(17), High Goose stepping action(21), Absolute Honey- though bolt at crux here a bit dodgy,(20). Biceps Femoris (21), and Biceps Brachii(21) are both on bolts. Corrosion Castle (19) all carrots. Be aware that the grades are all over the place.

  
petey_w
11:30:01 Thu
Jan 28 2010

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Re: Jolls Bridge Rebolting?

Listen to Vanessa she is wiser, better and bolder than me (everyone is bolder than me).
I rapped Corrosion Castle first and backed up nearly every bolt, when I did it. Really good gear except for the top where the bolts seem better and there is plenty of redundancy below but in retrospect there are probably only 2 bolts really to worry about - but then again I don't know anyone who has whipped on it yet...

  
Cragx
20:42:11 Thu
Jan 28 2010

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Re: Jolls Bridge Rebolting?

You didnt mention "she's older as well" or are you just not bold enough to say that as well.

  
vwills
01:57:43 Fri
Jan 29 2010

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Re: Jolls Bridge Rebolting?

Mr Crag X, I see you have returned from skiiing. Trying to get me back because I aired your smelly feet in public? At least I'm climbing well over half my age! :smile:

  
Cragx
20:37:46 Sun
Jan 31 2010

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Re: Jolls Bridge Rebolting?

Lol Ill pay that Ness,

Btw dude and I found out why leech bar is called leech bar in the rain yesterday.

  
lofty
01:37:04 Tue
Feb 2 2010

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Re: Jolls Bridge Rebolting?

Shnrub - Wall of Thighs is also worth a look. To date I've only done one climb there (Heaven and Hell), but liked it a lot. At first I thought it was very hard for a 22, but after sussing the moves it's probably about right and is a great climb.
The routes are bolted, but again it's very easy to top rope if your trying some of the harder climbs. No shame in top roping either.
I would also agree with Vanessa and suggest top roping around BLS, etc.

BTW - keep an eye out for the next Rock. There should be a bunch of photos of Jolls

  
adb
22:08:03 Thu
Feb 4 2010

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Re: Jolls Bridge Rebolting?

Hi Lofty,

My wife especially loved Heaven and Hell ... it was her first 22. I think it may have been the day we met you near the car park there.

  
shnrub
13:57:04 Wed
Feb 10 2010

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Indoor Bumbly

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Re: Jolls Bridge Rebolting?

Thanks lofty and thanks all for the tips. I'll head back out there soon. I've just got back from another NZ trip and got up my first 24 outdoors. Getting close to the tougher stuff after all. Is anyone keen to plan a bit of a day out up there?

  

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