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5 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 5 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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mikepatt 23:19:45 Wed Nov 10 2004 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
I've recent visited (for the first time) Keira West face and was amazed at the number and variety of the bolts! It looks as if there's been a lot of retro bolting but I'm a bit concerned about the use of expansion bolts.. are they appropriate/safe?
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Dr_Johan_Vonshag 03:27:58 Thu Nov 11 2004 Offline 9 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Mike,
Most of the routes that were bolted up at Keira were done well before the development of Nowra and the ring bolt revolution. Most of the routes are at least 10 yrs old, some up to 20yrs old. I haven't been up there for about 6 months but from when i was climbing/bouldering up there several years ago the climbs that are in good shape (RB's)are; Blossom, Putain the Puddin, Tear along the dotted line, book'm danno murder one, one blank wall, goober grease, space trucken, crawdad, hernia, turkeys take off, pig, extra terrestrial turkey. The fixer is one to avoid as the 3rd bracket (over lip over roof) got pulled off years ago and still hasn't been replaced. The south and north face also has some quality routes (travail, sex haunt, fascination) on rings. There has been talk locally (the 'Gong) of rebolting all the classic routes that are on carrots/brackets with rings but unfortunately with Nowra so close, it's been put on the back burner. If you are unsure, most routes have top rope anchors, pre inspection may be a good option. cheers Johan |
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mikepatt 03:45:02 Thu Nov 11 2004 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Cheers Johan,
I climbed Short Legs which has a few extra expansion bolts (as well as the (looks like) original carrot. I could see the paper label around the sleeve of one of the bolts which suggested it wasn't particularly well placed. I usually onsite, and climb well within my limits (so don't expect to fall off and test the bolts!) but are more concerned for beginners hangdogging easy stuff. |
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trentsadventures 04:37:02 Thu Nov 11 2004 Offline 97 posts Lead Climber Reply |
were the hangers on the expansion bolts proper fixed hangers or were they removable bolt plates captured underneath a washer?
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bundybear 05:00:10 Thu Nov 11 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
The Hard climbs on the northface are on Rings Too, except Wallyard Arete which is on Hangers, but the bolts seem rusty.
Oher goods ones on the south face on rings are: Brain Snapper Variant, Mind Games, the 2nd Pitch of down and going. There is serveral random ring bolts up the top near Jaunt as well. Sex Haunt, only has one ring lower off as well, there is old carrot way back (2-3m) that you can use as well, but the you need to pick it up on the way back to the car. |
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Josh_C 07:29:21 Mon Nov 15 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
he carries a drill up the route with him in case he gets into trouble??
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Dirty_D 09:09:24 Tue Nov 16 2004 Offline 7 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Sorry Josh C, I deleted my post as I tried to word it better , then forgot. Basically I meet a guy at Keira, who had placed a bolt off on the right of "One Blank Wall" as he had got into trouble. The placement was not needed as It was next to a excellent cam placement and the bolt was a Dyna bolt that I could twist with my fingers and almost remove. We shook our heads . I hope he doesn't get into trouble too often or the crags are going to be "Swiss Cheese".
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bundybear 10:56:55 Tue Nov 16 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
Hey Dirty D,
Is that you, I have met you out at Fish Boulders, and you spend a bit of time down the snow. Bundy |
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Dirty_D 08:34:42 Wed Nov 17 2004 Offline 7 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Bundy, we could well have met. I used to/ still do spend alot of time bouldering at the Fishys and I do also ski a heap over the year.
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