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4 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 4 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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Cragx 23:21:47 Wed Oct 27 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator  Mood Now:  Post Mood:  Reply |
We need a new moderator, you want to step up to the glory job?
Rod |
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Nick_Clow 23:25:50 Wed Oct 27 2004 Offline 180 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
> (myself and a few others) are planning on looking after rebolting issues and funds in the future.
Mr K, in view of your comments/opinions (v. early in the thread) about Cosmic that sounds very encouraging. Whilst I am not prepared to donate money to Mitch so he can retro-bolt (oh sorry - 'renew') climbs, I would be prepared to chip in for anger-management classes for him. |
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Josh_C 23:43:22 Wed Oct 27 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
i would offer my services but i dont want to give up the 'rock god' title....while you may not appreciate the work that mitch does, or the way he expresses opinions about that work, he has some good points- the reason bolts were placed in the first instance was to make a fall safe, and if it has been determined that these original bolts are not longer up to the job (whether they've seen accidents in the past or not!) then they need replacing- ok i think we all agree on that...but heres an illustration for ya (oh i llov illustrations)
you buy a new WRX but while heading up the mountains it has an overheating problem that causs substantial engine wear (hey steve how's the baby?) so when the engine get toward the end of its working life, you go and trade it in, but make sure its another one with an overheating problem, because on the way up to the mountains this problem has been cause for many memorable epics which you dont want to change.... |
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Josh_C 23:47:20 Wed Oct 27 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
i see where you're coming from nick, i do understand what you're saying...i havent climbed at the county so obviously you have a better idea of whats what, but is it true that there a some bolts where the position makes them dangerous?
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Cragx 00:03:07 Thu Oct 28 2004 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
One mans dangerous clip is another man bold run out, depends were you are coming from Josh.
Gotta say, all Mitch was trying to do was organise a proper re-bolting effort, and I for one I thank him for it. You might not have agreed with it, but I certainly don’t think anything he did was bad for climbing, where as, if a bolt fails it definitely will be. Not only was he re-bolting, but he was actively involved with liasing with the council, going to meetings, while most people sat on their arses hoping for things to happen. One of the reasons I tend to develop new areas, rather than put up routes in existing areas is because I just don’t want to get involved in the grubby, snippy local politics’ that is prevalent through out the Australian climbing seen. Be it caused by tall poppy syndrome, rebelling against authority or just plain stubbornness, I’d rather distance myself and enjoy climbing for what it is... a fun sport... and not some pissing contest over wether a bolt should be placed here or 1 metre to the right. Thanks Mitch for your work in the past and anything you do in the future, and to anyone else that bothers to spend there own time and/or money trying to fix past wrongs, make a bolt safer or simply add a new climb for other to enjoys. It’s a thankless task, not ego driven, but very much appreciated by a majority of the climbing community in general. |
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Josh_C 00:06:31 Thu Oct 28 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
ay ay!
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shawkshaw 00:47:19 Thu Oct 28 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator  Reply |
Kyle what ever form the new look rebolting fund take climbing anchors has some donations and some climbing anchor contributions that will be avaliable.
sorry to hear your leaving mitch. |
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jono_g 01:42:32 Thu Oct 28 2004 Offline 1 posts Climber Wannabe Reply |
Hi all
I have been following this thread and thought I would have an input. Cosmic is an awesome crag and I have had some of my best experiences there. I have also been humbled on numerous occasions and been forced to back off on a carrot. To me this is part of cosmics appeal, many routes require a certain commitment. I can't climb harder than 21 so I dont think I can comment on the harder routes. But I dont find clipping carrots on routes such as Clip or Die to be that difficult as its not steep. My feeling is that ringbolts on the climbs that are not overhung will affect the atmosphere at Cosmic. Although my opinions may be different to the majority of the people doing the work. I recognize the value of the rebolting which is being done, keep up the good work, but remember not all climbers prefer to clip ring bolts. When I wished to do some bolting Mitch was happy to pass on his knowledge and also lend me his glue gun. It is a shame that someone who has given up so much of his time to make climbs safer and be an activist for access, has not recived the appreciation he desereves. Good work Mitch Thanks CragX for the opportunity to put my veiws forward Jono |
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chris_coghill 03:40:11 Thu Oct 28 2004 Offline 278 posts Onsight Specialist Reply |
Somebody just posted a photo of a rockfall at Cosmic yestereday over I'd Rather Be Sailing.... possibly wiping out one of the classic aretes of the mountains, as well as Hollow Men, Toyland, Gentleman's Drag!
Is this a bad omen? Maybe we're all going to hell! Maybe just some disgruntled old trad climbers deciding that there'll be no rings or no climb at all! On the plus side, there's a new wall at cosmic county just dying to be gridbolted! (only joking). |
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Nick_Clow 05:32:17 Thu Oct 28 2004 Offline 180 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
 Chris, Quite, how er..ironic is it?!? God is angry with us for our stupid bickering and has taken away our cliff and climbs to teach us a lesson. The lesson is: we need to learn to love each other and be friends. (Grrrrrr...) |
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Mrkyle 22:50:45 Thu Oct 28 2004 Offline 82 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Sorry, moderation is not my thing.
Thanks for the offer Steve. Will be in touch in due course. |
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WingYing 00:30:13 Fri Oct 29 2004 Offline 100 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Whilst I am not prepared to donate money to Mitch so he can retro-bolt (oh sorry - 'renew') climbs, I would be prepared to chip in for anger-management classes for him. [/quote]
Nick, why are you associating Mitch with reto-bolting. He's not the only one in the Mtns who's done "rebolting". Chris Coghill and a few others have done some too. Now that Mitch quits, does that mean you would put more support in rebolting? If you have put your time and effort into something that you really believe in doing and people around you just sit and watch, or even doing nothing but criticise, I think you would be angry too, Nick. I'm surprised that Mitch did what he was doing for that long. For the 2 years that I've been with him, I've tried to help out whatever I could financially. So to be blunt, I own some of the bolts that were put in for rebolting. And I'm glad people are clipping them, instead of some tatty old carrots/ half worn down rings from toproping. I'm not saying that all carrots are dangerous, but some of them are F#$Ked. I never get involved in discussions about too many bolts at Shipley, trad/ sports, etc ... And I'm not taking sides either, however, when I looked at my credit card statement for the past 2 years, I've put in quite a bit for rebolting. And I get quite offended when people who doesn't contribute anything, but complain and criticise. Yet they all clip the bloody bolts!!! :ohwell: And I'm not the only one who had contributed financially, Chris Coghill, Nathan, to name a few. Yes, Mitch is infamous and doesn't have much PR skills. (sorry Mitch, just a personal opinion) But the guy did do some good work in attending council meetings, keep the climbing community informed about access issues, etc ... Be the information he provided was accurate/ inaccurate at times, at least in the process the climbing community becomes more aware. The work that he emphasised in doing is the vital part, not him. He could get run over by a car tomorrow and there'll be no more Mitch Warren, however the issues of access, etc will still be there. But WHAT ARE WE DOING ABOUT THEM? How are you contributing to the issues? If it took landslides to destroy the climbs that the climbing community cherished, to make us realise that we need some sort of unity and to do something, then so be it. Destroy all of them, I'd say. The whinging Chinese/ Asian Jess/ Wing-Ying |
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hipdos 01:54:36 Sat Oct 30 2004 Offline 84 posts Lead Climber Reply |
> as i can tell no one has ever raised the idea of installing new bolts to replace existing gear placements.
This is a good point! Are people getting hot under the collar here because they think gear placements are going to be bolted? I hope not. This thread is all about whether rings should replace carrots, and whether some relatively minor adjustments to the bolt placements are warranted. 90 % of this discussion has been thoughtful and worthwhile, let's not get caught up in the 10 % that has not... |
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mikepatt 22:00:41 Tue Jun 21 2005 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Now the dust of the rockfall and frantic keyboard bashing has settled Cosmic is once again the sleepy crag it's been for a while now. I was out there last Sunday and we had the place to ourselves. After bumbling up my usualy quota of vegatated grade 14 trad routes I went up to have a look at Allied Chemical News. Thanks for the new bolts Julian, although I didn't think the fixed hanger was necessary. After a few trad leads the climb feels well protected and a big thank you for NOT installing lower off rings. Personally I consider sitting down for a top belay and LOOKING OUT at the view a very satisfying way to finish a climb; no quick lower off and "your turn next". OK it may not be the quickest, most efficient way to climb but at least it makes you pause, take in your surroundings and realise how lucky we are to have fantastic crags in great surrounds often all to ourselves. Or was everyone else queuing for climbs down at Nowra??
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Duncan101 08:18:39 Wed Jun 22 2005 Offline 52 posts Lead Climber Reply |
I was out there last Wednesday too. It really is an awesome crag, and on a still sunny winter's day its gorgeous. A question though: on the allied chemical news wall there is two lines of bolts, one going left onto the arete, the other right. The right one feels about 18, and the left closer to 16 (both are very good). It has been some time since I was last on a rope though. Which one is Allied Chemical News?
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chris_coghill 00:45:15 Thu Jun 23 2005 Offline 278 posts Onsight Specialist Reply |
The left hand one is Julian's new route that he bolted when he rebolted ACN.
I forgot the name. |
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Duncan101 01:39:11 Thu Jun 23 2005 Offline 52 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Cheers. Its a good route and definitely easier than ACN. Thanks also to Julian for rebolting.
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Cragx 02:55:13 Thu Jun 23 2005 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: Post Mood: Reply |
Its in the new climbs database,
Climb Name Thailand Taxidriver Grade 16 Height 15 FA J. Andersen Description Start as for The Allied Chemical News, Pitch 2. From 1st Bolt on TACN go left and up wall. 3 more BR'S and optional #2Camalot. Belay as for TACN. Walk off Date FA 8/2004 |
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xCraiginator 04:48:06 Sun Nov 21 2010 Offline 1 posts Climber Wannabe Reply |
Can I be a moderator. I am the perfect candidate for the job. Respect my authoritar.
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