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5 people online in the last 15 minutes - 1 members, 0 anon and 4 guests. (Most ever was 44 at 07:48:50 Tue Oct 9 2007) pezz |
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shawkshaw 05:33:59 Tue Sep 14 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator  Reply |
i know its not everyones favorite crag but there are still route that need some work at berowra.
what routes should be rebolted. work i can think of - are you my mother, bolts and lower off - omnopox - bolts and lower off? - cominsubab (?) lower off - IGMC, lower off - butter knives, bolts and lower off - gidget verdon direct, bolts and lower off - broken candy - bolts and lower off whats a priority? |
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Josh_C 10:06:57 Tue Sep 14 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
not sure of that list, most well travelled= maybe broken candy? also omnopox & gidget verdon??
also have the carrots from the last rebolting effort finished being removed? havent been there in ages... anyway let us know when the work is gonna be done and ill help out however |
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Chris_Y 01:10:15 Wed Sep 15 2004 Offline 102 posts Flash Specialist Reply |
Steve,
Gidget Verdon (and its direct version) needs a re-think. I did the route a couple of months back (original version) and it is a pain in the butt. The 3rd ring seems to be set up for the direct finish, so is extremely difficult to clip, with ground fall potential. By the time you can get into a reasonable position to clip the 3rd you can clip the 4th ring (serious decking territory here). My solution to doing the route involved much dicking around - stick clip 2nd ring, batman up, using long stick clip 3rd ring with 60cm sling so that when climbing the route you can clip the sling from a logical position. ... re-bolting solution?? Re-position the third ring lower so that it can be clipped from the original route with ease and no ground fall risk... direct route can be re-bolted where stances dictate above this. Apologies about the rant! Once past the fingernail shearing start the climbing is really nice and flowing... Chris |
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tahlshara 03:15:47 Thu Sep 16 2004 Offline 3 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Hi Steve,
I'm with Chris regarding Gidget/Verdon. The climbing is all good..even with the fingerprint removing start...but the third RB's current position is only good for keeping the rope out of the way, rather than for protection. Other than that, it's just fine as it is. As for what is in need of rebolting/lower-offs: -Medium Strip needs lower-offs (it might start getting traffic then) -Dingo? (24) in the cave requires rebolting & stripping of carrots -3-D Wimp-out needs some carrot/s stripped??? -Butter Knives is questionable. Every year it seems to get some sort of ascent & correspondingly, so do the holds (or lack there of) become less & less. -Omnopox, don't bother. It's directly under the run-off of the hole in the roof for the Glamorpus wall. There's nothing left of it...even the chips look smoothed out!! -Are You My Mother? is in desperate need for rebolting & loweroffs. -Cominsubab & IGMC are also run-off havens... -Broken Candy????? Berowra is only 12-15min drive away from my home, so I'm happy to assist in any way I can, be it labor, donations, etc..just let me know. It's a great crag for me when I need to go for a quick climb after work, or when I have a couple of hours free on the weekend. Sorry if this response is a little long winded. |
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Cragx 04:53:54 Thu Sep 16 2004 Offline 2020 posts Administrator  Mood Now:  Post Mood:  Reply |
Mt K would be close to you as well then.
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shawkshaw 05:04:25 Thu Sep 16 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
good point tahlshara. not long winded. was thinking of possibily heading there on sunday, possibily just climbing, but there may be a few of us so would like to get some stuff done. are you my mother is high on the list.
re AYMM - at the moment the lower off point is the single mallion on the last carrot. the original route topped out. there definitely at least one or teo more worthwhile moves abovethe last bolt that could be facilitated if the lower offs were put on the lip of the roff and mot the wall below it. any opinions as the the merit of this or should it be left as is? |
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tahlshara 23:40:30 Thu Sep 16 2004 Offline 3 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
Hi Steve,
It's been a couple of years since I last jumped on AYMM. I did try the top out finish but was thwarted by the lacerations I received on my hands as some of the rock above the last bolt gave way. I think it's a call to be made on the day upon inspection. If the lower-offs are set similiarly to Glamorpus...as in under the roof...it would be protected from the elements & save on one's rope being eaten by the rock when lowering. But, as I said before, a call to be made on the day upon inspection would be best. I almost forgot, '24' had all but the first carrot replaced a couple of years ago, but just as many people fall & deck at the start as they do the crux above. It too may need a looking at also. Yeah Crag X, I'm not too far from Mt K also. Living 5 mins drive from the freeway does that. I should be there on Sunday until lunch. Hope too see you all there. |
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shawkshaw 00:07:02 Fri Sep 17 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
indeed, hopefully the weather will be ok and we will see you there.
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shawkshaw 05:14:03 Tue Sep 21 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
Are you my Mother 25 now has 5 U bolts in place of the rusty carrots. the last carrot with mallion has been left in place to facilitate lowering off until the position of the final anchor is decided.
the carrots on this climb and yesterdays heros have been removed. |
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AlanD 09:57:19 Tue Oct 5 2004 Offline 25 posts Outdoor Bumbly Reply |
There are two sets of bolts for lowering off Yesterday's Heroes, the higher set to the left are stuffed. One is deformed into something little more than a hook, the other is the same kind of bolt and not to be trusted.
I'll leave it to you guys to decide whether to pull this set out permanently or replace them. But either way they obviously aren't strong enough to lower from. |
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shawkshaw 10:45:02 Tue Oct 5 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
did you mean looks poxable or yesterdays heroes?
i can't remember two lower offs on YH. the one on looks poxable is a little odd but it should be strong enough. it hasn't broken but was made like that. is that the one you are talking about? thanks for the heads up. |
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AlanD 11:13:41 Tue Oct 5 2004 Offline 25 posts Outdoor Bumbly Reply |
"Looks Poxable" probably, they are 1 - 1.5 m away from a set that are fine. The ones that look stuffed, are a set of eye bolts, one of the eye bolts is now open to the point where a karabiner would slide off the end. The good ones have a chain and karabiner attached.
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shawkshaw 11:22:17 Tue Oct 5 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
indeed. i think (could well be wrong) that the ring bolt that is open is meant to be. it would take a lot of energy to open a bolt like that. energy that i don't think could occur whilst lowering off. it may have been an attempt at a convenient anchor setup but i agree with you its not ideal.
it has been like that for at least 4 years. |
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AlanD 11:41:08 Tue Oct 5 2004 Offline 25 posts Outdoor Bumbly Reply |
No problems, as long as someone with more experience than myself has a look to confirm it's "safe".
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tahlshara 22:53:09 Tue Oct 5 2004 Offline 3 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
The guy that set the lower-offs on Looks Poxable said he intentionally set it that way so that when a lead climber reached the top he/she can just 'hook' their rope & be safe until they clipped the ring bolt next to it. What bizarre logic.
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Josh_C 06:29:04 Wed Oct 6 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
i thought it was an old cold shut?
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trentsadventures 02:09:33 Thu Oct 7 2004 Offline 97 posts Lead Climber Reply |
cold shuts are an american form or ring that is used in conjunction with an expansion bolt. the bolt in question the left anchor on looks poxable) is an open shut. its kinda in the shape of an old P-bolt but with only one shaft and the ring hasnt been welded (hence open shut). there are intended to be used like a Fixe America or carabiner to facilitate a lower off without retreading. it strong enough to lower from so long as youve retreaded the right ring. if you want to top rope it, girth hitch the open shut with a slind and clinch it up nice and tight. heaps of people seem to get spooked by this particular anchor so next time im down that way i will add another UB to the left of the anchor (if im feeling generous i might even added stainless wire gate biners to both anchor) seeings though it is a crag classic.
Trent |
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bundybear 04:21:51 Thu Oct 7 2004 Unavailable 1322 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing  Reply |
The Cold/Open Shut seems pretty worn out anyway.
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Josh_C 00:39:22 Sun Nov 7 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
q: why is it a cold shut when closed and an open shut when open, shouldnt it then be a cold open? actually i think cold came from the way they make it shut so essentially its an oversized fishing hook??
more to the point- what is the gear like on luv handles? |
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shawkshaw 08:54:56 Sun Nov 7 2004 Offline 1343 posts Administrator Reply |
love handles bolts are fine
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Josh_C 09:16:35 Sun Nov 7 2004 Offline 1492 posts Net addict - someone take me climbing Reply |
cool- i just seemed to remember the third bolt being a little worse for wear
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