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03:38:09 Wed
Sep 28 2005

97 posts
Lead Climber

New Route @ Berowra

Does anyone know who put the new(ish) route up to the right of Are You My Mother at Berowra. Its about 19 and quite good but the bolts are 10mm expansion bolts with fixed hangers and the lower-off is a piece of chain with 4 expansions bolts in it. The second bolts fixed hanger is already loose.

Expansion bolts are not suited to sydney or blue mountains sandstone. The cement within rocks of the narrabeen group are too inconsistent to allow the use of any mechanical anchor as a permanent piece of protection. Glue-in anchors are the only form of bolt that should be placed in this rock. If you dont have the skills or equipment to place sound glue-in anchors but still want to put up a route or develop an new area, ask someone who does know for some help.

Glue-in anchor technology in Australia is very well developed so there is no reason to use anything but the most appropriate form of anchor (in this case glue-ins)

Safe Climbing

08:28:44 Fri
Feb 9 2007

355 posts

Re: New Route @ Berowra

I do believe this route has had the hangers removed. I noted a route with the hangers missing and bolts sticking out of the rock when I was there 3 weeks ago, though it could have happened 12 months ago for all I know.


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