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mikl
21:35:52 Tue
May 2 2006

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More Mt Pid rebolts

Tuesday I retro bolted Vinyl Idl (19) as it's a good top pitch to either Joseph or Ivans 2 pitch 19 below it. All SBAGS. Looked scary in the original way I put it up.

Also rebolted On Edge, it's all U's now, but more runout at the top (the three bolts at the top are replaced by 1 U, but there were originally none). There's a lower off on the slab above the stepup move (just below the belay ledge above Flake Crack). The original pin was still very solid, amazingly. Of the 2 bolts on the crux, the 3/8" lower one moved a bit, but the 1/4" higher one was very solid and took a bit of work with a cold chisel to free it.

  
bundybear
11:56:04 Wed
May 3 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

On edge - with Us (yummy) I will have to give this a shot over winter. Thanx for the rebolt...

does anyone what the bolts are like on Cottage bollder, Leanings and FY are good but what about the other sporty routes..
[1 edits; Last edit by bundybear at 11:58:10 Wed May 3 2006]

  
madtaffy
22:52:34 Thu
May 4 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

Abra Cadabra is THE route for you on the back Bundy. Just your style.

  
madtaffy
02:03:36 Wed
May 31 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

Tried On Edge. still exciting even with the U's. hard move off that crimp, did there used to be footholds? Struggled to get my beer gut around the arete.
What's the route to the left of Psychopath on U's. Looks like same glue and bolts as on edge. And what's the routes on the wall around the corner to the left of The Spartan? Any one know?

  
mikl
02:23:01 Wed
May 31 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

No, there weren't ever footers on the crux.

The route left of psycopath is
Neil Diamond Syndrome 20 20m (sport)
The name is more terrifying than the climbing. Start as for Neurotic Direct Start and straight up. Optional cams where you cross Neurotic to protect easy run-out to 2nd U. 8 Uís and lower off.
V Peterson May 2006

Didn't want to put a U in the middel of the only real bit of climbing on Neurotic and spoil a route no-one ever does.



  
mikl
02:28:54 Wed
May 31 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

"And what's the routes on the wall around the corner to the left of The Spartan? Any one know? "

There's :-
The plunge (up white groove and up wall trending left to top) old school 22, now 12 U's and a rap station at the top (40m pitch)
The Plunge DS, up the arete on the left past 4 U's, 20 , better than the original
The plunge varient finish (18), led on-sight by greg Child on an early attempt on The Plunge (we were onsight bolting off hooks). Now 8 rings or so, if you can do the crux of The Plunge you wouldn't bother with this.


"

  
madtaffy
22:11:00 Wed
May 31 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

Thanks Mikl I'll give them a go this weekend.

  
DODmister
06:46:12 Thu
Jun 1 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

hello all,

was thinking about re-bolting flake crack on the weekend.
I think about 15 u's up the flake should be sufficient.

does anyone have any objections?

  
Nick_Kaz
07:31:59 Thu
Jun 1 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

Hey Dod...
[1 edits; Last edit by Nick_Kaz at 07:32:35 Thu Jun 1 2006]

  
mikl
22:02:42 Thu
Jun 1 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

DodMeister said >
was thinking about re-bolting flake crack on the weekend. I think about 15 u's up the flake should be sufficient.>

Strangely enough, I think the flake is in danger of collapsing eventually as the ground at the base is wearing away (> 1 m lost), a long term scheme is some ground reinforcement and covering in the area like the base of the rap area up near Horne's Point.

  
madtaffy
01:18:10 Fri
Jun 2 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

That wood left over from the Cliffcare days that's already down there could be used. Wouldn't take long to do this job.

  
mikl
02:12:15 Mon
Jun 5 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

Good in wet weather so we can make concrete. Damo from katoomba works in the BMCC and had the gate opened and suppies delivered by truck. All orgainsed through CliffCare.

What's the staus of Cliffcare now?

  
Mrkyle
13:58:34 Mon
Jun 5 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

It sparked briefly last winter but seems to have faded again. The ACA aims to get it going again if we can get this insurance biz sorted.

Kyle.

  
madtaffy
07:52:11 Tue
Jun 6 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

Did Neil diamond Syndrome - good fun with plenty of rests. Then got to the glue reinforced flake of The Plunge DS and had a sort of beer gut malfunction that pulled something in my ribs and the I bailed. The rings on that route make up for the mank rock! must have been terrifying previously.

  
Katoomba
03:12:57 Wed
Jun 7 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

I'd call this route Neutotic rebolted, When I last did neuritic ds(2005) prior to rebolting I was within clipping distace of all the bolts on the 'new route' except the lower off.

  
madtaffy
04:50:35 Wed
Jun 7 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

So was it fun? How many times did you wander around the cliff trying to put gear in to protect yourself. Maybe the climbing was well below your grade and you didn't need pro in case you fell off or broke a hold. I'm not supporting a mass bolt of every route but I'm not heartbroken that Neurotic DS may have been superceded.

  
Ashy
03:22:37 Tue
Oct 3 2006

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Re: More Mt Pid rebolts

Wandered down to Piddo to try and reinvent myself as a trad climber but before too long I was lured to the steep stuff on the back of the Cottage Boulder. To my glee I found "Leanings" has been rebolted with rings. Really nice steep climb and not too hard for 24. Anyone know who & when tidied it up? It would be great if the other routes here could be rebolted.

  

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