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dwebster
08:13:25 Sun
Oct 22 2006

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Middle Cove. To bolt or not to...?

Hello,
Just wondering what the state of Middle Cove is in terms of rebolting. Is it a possibility to put in new bolts on a few old routes or is that a no go?

Don't know if it's worth while, but there's a few nice little routes that would be nice leads if the bolts weren't flaky peices of rust.

  
Cragx
08:48:17 Sun
Oct 22 2006

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Re: Middle Cove. To bolt or not to...?

Form sydney climbing site,

"Access to this crag is currently very delicate, and as a result further development is not recommended. Locals have also been known to tell climbers that climbing is banned, although as far as I have been able to determine, this is not the case.

During 2004 the crag was extensively rebolted with DBB and chain lower offs, making top roping a much safer proposition than previously (although the lead bolts remain in their original poor state). The area was also badly burnt out during summer 2003/2004, leaving both the rock and the vegetation in a rather fragile state"

If you can get away with the rebolt Id say go for it.

  
bundybear
10:04:41 Sun
Oct 22 2006

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Re: Middle Cove. To bolt or not to...?

Go for it dude. but keep a low profile. consider bolting during the week when there are not many poeple around...

  
dwebster
02:13:09 Tue
Oct 24 2006

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Re: Middle Cove. To bolt or not to...?

Yeah, I asked the council about the lagality of climbing there a few years back. They gave the standard line. Really honestly. I was impressed. The lady said; "If you hadn't asked, it wouldn't have been a problem."

Oh well, thanks guys. I might sneak out some time. I jsut often see the ranger cruising around the park during the day too. Perhaps before lunch is a good option.

Cheers.

  
shawkshaw
02:27:35 Tue
Oct 24 2006

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Re: Middle Cove. To bolt or not to...?

or after the gates are closed? its nice little area and there are a couple of great routes.

  
dwebster
09:07:53 Wed
Oct 25 2006

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Re: Middle Cove. To bolt or not to...?

Hey, now there's a good idea! Good thinking Steve.

I reckon I'll do that... Well, at the very least, I'll think about it more.

Does anyone know who put these routes up, or who 'Munch' is and how I could contact him/her (I'm betting on him)?

Thanks.




  
TonyB
21:35:41 Thu
May 24 2007

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Re: Councils' approach to climbing

Contacting councils can give unexpected results. Here's a response from North Sydney Council, where I thought climbing was banned. I assume using any existing bolts is OK.

"
Council does not have a formal policy in regard to rock climbing.
However there are a large range of protection controls in place for
the conservation and preservation of rock outcrops, bushland, trees and
vegetation etc in the Local Government Area.

Consequently the following considerations would need to be made:

- Techniques which use rock bolting/anchors would therefore not be
acceptable.

- Tying off around trees would require adequate protection measures
were in place to ensure the trunk is not scarred.

- Access to the climbing sites would need to be along tracks and
not through bushland areas.

As long as the activities you undertake do not cause damage to these
protected items the activity would be regarded as an informal
recreational pursuit which is a permissible use of these areas.

Should you have any further enquiries please feel free to contact me on
the details as below
regards
KateBB

Kate Bambrick-Browne

Parks and Reserves Manager
North Sydney Council
PO Box 12, North Sydney 2059
Ph 9936 8222 Fax 9936 8177

"

  
Mrkyle
23:22:24 Thu
May 24 2007

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Re: Councils' approach to climbing

I'd consider leaving this area alone.

  
Cragx
23:36:30 Thu
May 24 2007

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Re: Councils' approach to climbing

I just find it funny they say they are all about conservation and preserving areas, not okay to put to lower offs but okay to track around the top and wrap crap around trees....sometimes they just don't get it.

Since you have a repore going maybe try and argue the benifits of lower offs bolts etc, good cammo bolts are far more hard to spot then tracks caused by top roping and belaying from the top.

  
adb
22:18:29 Wed
Jun 20 2007

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Re: Councils' approach to climbing

Do you really think that councils are serious about conservation !? You have got to be kidding ! I've spent the past six months writing to Warringah Council attempting to get them to remove this sort of crap that teenage scumbags have plastered all over the rocks on the headland at Queenscliff :



Some of this disgusting scrawl is 2 m high. How "unsightly" do people really think bolts are compared to this mess ? Of course, Warringah Council's highly paid bureaucrats continue to sit on their fat backsides and do nothing. It even took me 4 letters to get a reply and that was only when I copied the Manly Daily.

  
duncan_donuts
03:18:15 Thu
Jun 21 2007

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Re: Councils' approach to climbing

Um, surely Queenscliff would be under the jurisdiction of Manly Council?

  
adb
01:42:22 Fri
Jun 22 2007

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Re: Councils' approach to climbing

No, it's part of Warringah Council ... and once again it is a "suburb".
http://www.warringah.nsw.gov.au/council/documents/2001120484.pdf

  
duncan_donuts
04:32:33 Fri
Jun 22 2007

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Re: Councils' approach to climbing

Fair enough.

  
Steve_M
06:01:15 Mon
Jun 25 2007

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421 posts
Onsight Soloer


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Re: Councils' approach to climbing

That graffiti is nothing compared to the scrawl of 'Die Aussie Die' that has been left outside Hawkdudes house for 18 months. Lucky I'm tucked up safe in the shire where that sort of stuff doesn't happen.

  

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