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rogerb
05:14:03 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

Mal's Mega Route (23??) at Mt York has been rebolted.

I added a ring to the lower-off plus two new rings to the approach so that no trad gear is needed. Otherwise placements are more or less same as original but give a better rope line.

Looks like a fun route and very photogenic.
Goes up an overhanging orange prow of very nice rock if you dont know it. Might be more than 23 tho.

The new anchors just to the right are the top of a new project I didnt get time to drill/glue due to failing battery/rain/body/mind.

  
shawkshaw
06:20:13 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

nice work roger. its a great route. one of the bolts at the start of the steepness was hard to clip. did you change its possition at all?

good effort

  
wyt91t
06:24:31 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

going down to monkey town
[1 edits; Last edit by wyt91t at 13:03:04 Mon Jan 8 2007]

  
tnd
06:30:13 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

I rebolted Sister Rosa (21) and M (19) at Dam Cliffs on Saturday before giving R the drill to do the above. Can't be bothered starting another thread for it. I'll put the info on the route descriptions over on ACA web site.

  
bundybear
07:47:14 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

Thanks dudes, Supa work !

  
wyt91t
12:47:50 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

oh adski your gonna pay for that one. there's no way i can be at the glen and crag x at the same time.

  
Josh_C
14:12:20 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

well theres a magic button called 'logoff' ya F#$Ken moron

  
rogerb
19:40:33 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

Steve, the first bolt above the slab is clipped off a giant jug. Is that the one you mean? I didn't change it's position significantly. At least you now have two good rings below instead of a single rusty carrot.

The next clip (only a metre above) looked harder but that was mainly due to the lack of footers.

Did you think it was 23? Looked hard getting out onto the arete to me.

  
shawkshaw
21:36:34 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

yeah the second one is the one i meant. you need to do a half move to clip it but the carrot made it worse. a ring would make this less troublesome.

i found it quite hard. really cool rock and hard going past that second bolt and tending left (?). i really enjoyed i tthough. should be the traffic it deserves with the rebolt. top stuff

  
rogerb
22:36:34 Mon
Jan 8 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

Steve, it's very irresponsible for a father to be leading that route on those crappy old carrots. Are you going mountaineering next weekend? :wink:

I nearly killed my newborn first daughter at Kangaroo Pt by rapping off the end of my rope and slamming into the grass right beside the blanket she was lying on. This is probably why she's not interested in climbing.

  
shawkshaw
03:54:17 Tue
Jan 9 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

yeah i think your right. how dodgy were they?

  
rogerb
04:21:10 Tue
Jan 9 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

I havent chopped them yet, however, a hold did break off near the top.

  
bundybear
10:46:45 Tue
Jan 9 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

Quote: tnd at 06:30:13 Mon Jan 8 2007

I rebolted Sister Rosa (21) and M (19) at Dam Cliffs on Saturday before giving R the drill to do the above. Can't be bothered starting another thread for it. I'll put the info on the route descriptions over on ACA web site.


Radio Baghdad - has new bolts now as well.

  
tnd
00:45:22 Wed
Jan 10 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

Cool. Did you do that one? You should put it on ACA web site. Mitch is promising to print the new edition of the guide book real soon now...

  
bundybear
02:00:56 Wed
Jan 10 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

not my work...

  
madtaffy
01:34:51 Fri
Apr 13 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

Took a whipper clipping that bolt on Mal's Mega Route when I had the rope in my teeth! Impressive fall and I still have all my teeth. The Rock Warrior would be proud. Way harder than 22.

  
bundybear
10:53:56 Fri
Apr 13 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

Tony has been drinkin and @#$%^& much latey, and not much climbing, so might only be 21 ???

  
madtaffy
22:15:53 Sun
Apr 15 2007

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Re: Mal's Mega Route, Mt York

Getches dogged it too when warming up, then ticked a 25 to the left so it might be slightly hard! Or is Calamity Jane soft?

  

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