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cogsy
22:43:04 Tue
Apr 10 2007

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24 posts
Outdoor Bumbly

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Neil Diamond Syndrome.

Had a great day learning to trad climb again at Piddo yesterday.
We did Psychotic, the direct finish to Pychopath, which was fantastic climbing all the way.... I would say better than psychopath itself, as you avoid grovelling into the chimney at the end.
We rapped from the anchor of "Neil Diamond Syndrome", Mike's new route.

Not really a fan of the anchor... two horizontally placed U's on top of each other..... very difficult to lower or top rope from unless you actually thread the rope, which is usually a bit of a no-no.
I suspect the only way to fix this one is to add another vertically placed U to the side of the current configuration.

Interesting to see the starring of the routes... NDS gets 4* and Psychotic 3*!!! Hmmmm... Mike you have obviously paid a bit of money to the editors there! (Luv ya mate, really).

The Plunge, however is absolutely fookin' Brilliant with a capital B.
Very impressive original lead, Mike. This definitely deserves the 5*.
I lowered to the base of the climb with a 70 metre rope from the anchors, so it is possible to top rope. Best to belay from the pedestal to the left of the starting arete if you do.

What are the thoughts of putting a rap anchor or a couple of rings on the wall above Flake crack? Those two carrots are really showing their age.
I suppose if people top roped or rapped, though, there might be some stones falling from the top? Maybe a couple of glue-in carrots or fixed hangers, so people were forced to walk around to the rap anchor still?

  
tnd
11:55:43 Wed
Apr 11 2007

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61 posts
Lead Climber

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Re: Neil Diamond Syndrome.

I'd say go with the glue-in carrots.

  
bundybear
22:58:05 Wed
Apr 11 2007

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1322 posts
Net addict - someone take me climbing


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Re: Neil Diamond Syndrome.

Quote: tnd at 11:55:43 Wed Apr 11 2007

I'd say go with the glue-in carrots.


Me too

  
mikl
07:20:37 Fri
May 25 2007

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111 posts
Flash Specialist

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Re: Neil Diamond Syndrome.

Someone has stolen the shackle from the top anchor. Someone (probably me) will replace it soon-ish.
4WD owners donate them by leaving them on the back of their towbars for climbers

  

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