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03:48:42 Tue
Jul 24 2007

7 posts
Indoor Bumbly

Berowra Bolting

Qutie recently some ring bolts have appeared on Flake Thing at Berowra. Flake Thing was a very rarely done climb due to the scarey crux moves that come near the top of the climb a bot of a way above good cam placements. This crux section is now protected by two or three ring bolts and there is one to protect the undercut start. I felt quite proud when I led Flake Thing before the bolts because of the commitment and difficulty. It was a turning point in climbing for me. Now it is just a simple clip up. You can dog your way through the crux moves instead of planning ahead and commiting. Although dissapointing I guess it is bringing it into line with the ethos of the rest of the area, which is easy safe sport climbing. Flake Thing now makes a great beginer route with mixed pro but something has been lost.
Who ever did it, please keep your eye off Positive Ape Factor. Just because the top is run out and scary doesn't mean it needs two or three bolts. Leave a bit of boldness for those who want something to work up to. There are plenty of other clip up sport routes at the crag.:ohwell:

05:05:57 Tue
Jul 24 2007

72 posts
Lead Climber

Re: Berowra Bolting

I totally agree.

I was a bit annoyed a couple of years ago to hear that Boundary Rider had been retro-bolted - a ring added at the start, which could be safely protected with a cam or even a hex.
If I wanted it to have bolts every foot or so I would have bolted it in that fashion.

Retro bolting should be done vary sparingly, with consultantion of as many people as possible.

It does change the nature of the route for subsequent climbers.

08:13:36 Tue
Jul 24 2007

584 posts
Rock God

Mood Now: Bored
Post Mood: Bored

Re: Berowra Bolting

Positive ape factor is neither run out or scary so I doubt it will ever get any steel in it.

10:33:43 Tue
Jul 24 2007

2055 posts

Mood Now: Jamming
Post Mood: Jamming

Re: Berowra Bolting

Even ive done it, so it cant be run out.


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