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25 people online in the last 60 minutes - 2 members, 0 anon and 23 guests. (Most ever was 121 at 02:27:28 Wed Oct 19 2011) green_dots :: AirforceCondor |
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radical  16:57:49 Wed Aug 22 2012 Offline 5155 posts BBMG LIFER  Reply |
Interesting CK, what advantages does it have over PB?
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cripskillz 06:16:30 Wed Aug 22 2012 Offline 43 posts BBMG Corporal  Reply |
here is a easy way to setup a gallery and post imgs to forums,, if ya want
 click here to chk it.. [29 clicks] | ||||
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radical 18:40:06 Sun Aug 19 2012 Offline 5155 posts BBMG LIFER Reply |
Finally a good idea for use of them rather than pilling up in the closet!
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camracer  14:34:16 Sun Aug 19 2012 Offline 4933 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000  Reply |
Yeah, you like the look? I harvested the buttons from an old Sony tv remote I had lying around.
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DUBB  05:47:28 Sun Aug 19 2012 Offline 2253 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000  Reply |
Hey cam, where did you find the buttons with the numbers on them, was that a remote control?
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radical 04:33:55 Sun Aug 19 2012 Offline 5155 posts BBMG LIFER Reply |
Actually they are ALL the SB. He doesnt sell the SB1 or SB2 anymore. Its now still the SB board.
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camracer 23:28:39 Sat Aug 18 2012 Offline 4933 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000 Reply |
Sergey might be able to answer the "tiny" details, but the SB-3 is basically the same board as the SB-2. Sergey calls the SB-2 "version 3". There has been confusion with newbies here about what this board should be called. I now have renamed Sergey's V3 board the "SB-3" to eliminate confusion. Until Sergey makes a 4th version, anyone that buys a new circuit board should refer to it as the "SB-3". ......"K.I.S.S." (Keep. It. Simple, ...Stupid. !!)  Everyone still confused??? .........If you are, ....Then you are a "Du-Mass"!  ---Cam
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radical 15:17:51 Sat Aug 18 2012 Offline 5155 posts BBMG LIFER Reply |
Nice. What exactly is new/better on the SB3?
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camracer 14:09:25 Sat Aug 18 2012 Offline 4933 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000 Reply |
Here's the SB-3 I just got from Sergey this week installed in my new BB
   The LED window fit so perfect pressed in. No need for glue. It takes about 3 hours to install with the proper model builders tools. ---Cam
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radical 16:43:44 Fri Aug 17 2012 Offline 5155 posts BBMG LIFER Reply |
Just try it. After you get your first pic to post you'll be set.
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camracer 00:56:14 Fri Aug 17 2012 Offline 4933 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000 Reply |
We can "walk you through" Photobucket, ACD. It's not really complicated.
I load my photos onto my computer, then enhance them with Jasc Paintshop Pro. I then go to Photobucket and upload those photos. Then "share" them by copying the "link code for forums" and pasting them into your post here on the forum. ---Cam
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DUBB 13:45:38 Thu Aug 16 2012 Offline 2253 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000 Reply |
I never had any luck getting any kind of pictures posted directly on this forum, I don't think that works, here. You kind of have to use PB. But the very bottom option if you hover on a PB pic, is the right format, just click that bottom box so it changes to "copied", and paste it here, and it'll work fine.
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radical 03:35:22 Thu Aug 16 2012 Offline 5155 posts BBMG LIFER Reply |
Most everyone I know over at the AK and AR 15 forums uses PB to get their pics up. Very easy. No doubt you will get it.
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 01:51:18 Thu Aug 16 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
So guys,
Would you prefer me to try to photobucket them instead of trying to compress and fit them all the right size or file to fit into these threads? I just wanna make it easier for the viewer, or modder who needs to see pics to know what to do. I know all you guys who have already done it, just want to see my pics for entertainment purposes as your mods are already completed. So let me know. If photobucket is the way to go, I will figure out how to use it. Im sure its some kinda file hosting website where I can just upload things and probably name or put them into albums or folders. I have 31 photos in total to share of my install journey. I tried to do it and show it in a way everyone could follow, handy skills or not. You can do it all by hand like me, no power tools needed except a cordless drill to drill the holes, thats it! Ok, I made this thread so people wouldnt have to read a lot of posts that had nothing to do with the install itself, LIKE THE POST IM WRITING RIGHT NOW! LOL so I will cease to desist, and stop making it longer than it needs to be - pertinent info only, short and sweet, keepin it simply short K.I.S.S. methodology - which I continue to ruin with each passing word. I'll stop... NOW. ACD out. | ||||
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radical 21:38:57 Wed Aug 15 2012 Offline 5155 posts BBMG LIFER Reply |
YuuuP as Dave Hester would say. After upload then click img once and its copied. Then past it in your thread.
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camracer 10:18:32 Wed Aug 15 2012 Offline 4933 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000 Reply |
Well done ACD! Can't wait to see the photos!
A lot of us use Photobucket to upload photos here. It's easy to use and free! ---Cam
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 07:36:33 Wed Aug 15 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
Haha!
Common sense is like vision, in hindsight, everything is 20/20! Hehe. Anyways, I completely finished my install tonight. Took my whole gun apart just to affix the LCD screen display window over the square rectangular cutout. I wanted to do a professional pro star job, looking factory stock, but I did not have any smoked plexiglass like AutoXXX or DnC's amazingly awesome visuals of their finished installs with smoked plexiglass, flush mounted. My screen protector was mounted underneath. I used two thin sheets of tinted plastic film, and cut them to size, basically larger than the window itself, so I would have two sides to glue it from. The bottom edge runs along the same bottom edge of the rectangular cut out, so I have nowhere to glue on the bottom, and a very small spot on the top edge I used to glue, but the top edge is also sandwiched in place by the stock 1-3-6 round burst button, which is now just a dummy button, same with the rpm button for 300-450-600 rpm on the other side of the reciever is a dummy button as well. The buttons did not have to be flipped over, as I thought to clear the LCD screen, the buttons fit perfectly right side up, stock condition exactly how it comes fresh out of the box. I was able to pressure fit the button on the top edge of the reciever wall as well as over the two layers of tint. It is not going anywhere. [ Too Many Emoticons In Post; Maximum 3 ] Because I used two layers, you have to be careful with the glue you use. When two surfaces are so close together, it has a habit or knack of drawing up fluids between the two sheets. Think a drop of water between two panes of glass. If you get the bottom edge wet, you can almost watch water get sucked up in between the two panes. Anyhow I think I had a small area where the glue migh have done this, but the two layers are dark enough so that everything is re [ Continued ] View Rest Of Post | ||||
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radical 02:39:34 Wed Aug 15 2012 Offline 5155 posts BBMG LIFER Reply |
Common sense? D'Oh!
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camracer 17:28:49 Tue Aug 14 2012 Offline 4933 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000 Reply |
I coined "SB-2" in my Youtube videos. Everyone was referring to Segey's new circuit boards as "Sergey's Board" It kind of just stuck. Even Sergey began to refer to his board as SB-2. A little history lesson straight from Sergey: The "version one" board was never marketed to anywhere but Russia. The SB-1 board, as we coined here, was the first available everywhere and is actually Sergey's SECOND board, and the SB-2 (or now the more correct name: SB-3) is actually Sergey's version three. Confused everyone??? 
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 04:37:36 Tue Aug 14 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
Yup!
That is exactly what I ended up calling it the SB-2 version 3, because Sergey had called it the SB-2, but the third version. But I guess enough has changed, it really should be properly dubbed, the SB-3... cause SB-2 would mean version 2 (hence the 2 suffix) and having a 2 then v3 doesnt make sense. Definitely should be just Version 2, or Version 3. And that would be, properly, SB-2, and respectively, the new SB-3. I am loving it by the way. The 1400 and 1600 sound a little funky to the ears, almost like a changing pattern, briiiiip-braaap-briiiip. Whereas the 1k, 12h, 18h, 2k all sound like a pneumatic woodpecker. I set it off of full auto to 10 round burst, to test and see the shot counter was working for each setting, including the 14h and 16h that sound a little weird to me audio-wise, does anyone else notice on full automatic setting that their 14h or 16h sounds a bit different to them? | ||||
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camracer 10:18:45 Mon Aug 13 2012 Offline 4933 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000 Reply |
It really is the same, but there is confusion starting concerning the naming of Sergey's board. We have been referring to it as the "SB-2". Sergey calls it "version 3". So it just makes sense to call it "SB-3" short for "Sergey's Board version 3".
---Cam
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 08:28:28 Mon Aug 13 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
No problem, I am at fault here, sorry Cam!
SB3 is easier and shorter. Version 3 it is! Sorry for confusing everyone. I thought it was just the exact same board with every thing as the SB2, except on a new green factory printed board, hence I thought it was a new version of the SB2. But it turns out there is more than just a green board. The dc to dc piece is gone making it also $10 cheaper than the previous version, price drops are always welcome! As well all the different voltages people use, Sergey simplified to -/+ 17.5volts with a jumper setting for above, and one for below it. So substantial changes, no more splicing in extra resistors or capacitors to my knowledge, at least mine didn't come with switchable parts to solder in and out, that older boards had some included with it. When people wanted to do specific things. I already have a wishlist for a SergeyBoard version 4 and some extra added features I'd love to see in a future version! | ||||
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camracer 16:28:45 Sun Aug 12 2012 Offline 4933 posts BBMG LIFE BLASTER +2000 Reply |
Glad you got it worked out ACD!
When drilling the holes for the buttons, you just need to take your time and measure, measure, measure! Then when you drill the holes use a very tiny drill bit then stick a pin through the hole to see if it meets the button's alignment. If it does, then drill the holes out to the proper diameter. If you make a "big mistake", don't worry! fill the hole with JB Weld, sand it flush and re-drill it. Looking forward to photos to go along with your very thorough descriptions ACD! Also for now on let's just refer to Sergey's "version 3" board as the SB-3. (SB-2v3 or other variations of that will become cofusing to others) OK? ---Cam
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 00:26:53 Sun Aug 12 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
Thanks Sergey for the board sanding tip. My board now clicks in nicely, it doesnt need to be forced - hard. I eased it right into place, and there is no wiggle or movement which is awesome. If there was, the button response would feel mushy or weak. As it stands, my buttons are kinda just floating loose in their slots, there is not cellophane template anymore, nor do I plan to glue them onto the switches on the pcb. I am ok with that little bit of space, as before it was too tight, and my buttons wouldnt come back out, or reset properly.
So I got my buttons in, I pressed in the circuit board, making sure to angle it in first on the button side, and then press the far side down to click it into position. After sanding, it worked great. I MADE SURE NOT TO SCRATCH ANY TRACES OR PUT MY TOOL PRESSING DOWN ON TOP OF ANY TRACE LINES. I was going to put quick disconnect clips on the end of the selenoid, but they wont fit under the cover there. Instead, I have two pairs of insulated quick disconnects that look really similar to the clips used to connect R/C cars to their batteries. At the back of the frame, and on the side of the trigger grip frame, there is just a small slot for the wires to run through, again no room for quick disconnects here. They would have to go up front. The perfect spot worked out to be the empty space behind the LCD screen. So now when I take my front reciever cover off after removing the barrel, I can unclip the plugs and then detach the back half of the grip frame from the front of the reciever relatively easily. The selenoid I will still need to solder/desolder to adjust it, but once I find the sweet spot, it will just be set there and not needed to be adjusted. I can now use the pulse width to adjust the selenoid from 4ms to 12ms. The wires need to be crimped down on the clips to hold them in place, I dont have a crimp tool so I am just using pliers to do it. I had to cut off the extra plastic on top to c [ Continued ] View Rest Of Post | ||||
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 22:08:27 Sat Aug 11 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
Hello everyone,
Now to report back on my ongoing install: I have fixed the problem, with more details in the other thread about fixing a broken trace I posted once this happened. Basically a solder dot fixed it. By sheer luck, I believe the solder was rosin cored because I saw smoke when I heated it up. I did not have flux, since my tools are extremely minimal, a ghetto radioshack soldering iron I bought in my teenage years and I found a spool of solder where the iron was in the toolbox. Anyways, it looks like I am back on track after a near little heart attack, the problem has been quickly resolved, without sending back to Sergey and having a month or so downtime. I almost wanted to order another board because it would have just been quicker - thank god the Mod Gods let me pass this round. And I will be more careful during the last steps of the install now. What I need to do is basically inset the three buttons from behind/inside, and then drop in the new pcb board, my SB-2v3! I will need to push it down into place, as I mentioned before it was a tight fit. Sergey gave me a good piece of advice that I can share in this thread. The boards are tight fitting and basically not exactly straight. There is a little bit of recurve in them, basically meant for a tight fit I imagine, except my fit was very tight. The factory board was tight too, I had to pry it out as well. But the tightness of the SergeyBoard was much tighter with less tolerance on the sides, so Sergey suggested using a flat edge and sandpaper, and lightly sanding the sidewalls down like 0.5mm, just a little tiny bit. I have sanded the sides just now in preparation of the drop in install, and hope that what I did will help it fit a little bit easier in place. I can always sand some more if I need to, but I dont want to take too much off at once. Anyhow, once I drop it in, I just basically need to solder the two wires back to the back of the selenoid, and then rebuild the [ Continued ] View Rest Of Post | ||||
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Tbkahuna  11:54:54 Sat Aug 11 2012 Offline 1671 posts BBMG MASTER BLASTER +1000  Reply |
It should work fine. Don't overheat it and make sure you use flux and rosin core solder.
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 09:26:16 Sat Aug 11 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
Hey TBK,
I had written off the idea in my head, but you have got me to attempt it, as I have nothing to lose at this point. I checked and there is conductivity between the two trace segements when bridged, so all hope is not lost. Definitely scraping off the clear coat to reveal the shiny bare metal below, I think I will have a better chance at adhesion. When I first looked at the gouge, I didnt even want to touch it to fuck it up even more. It was that stock shiny clear overcoat look that made me think/feel that a drop of solder wouldnt work on it and it probably wouldnt. Thanks for the tips to prepare the trace surfaces for reconnection. I will let you all know how it goes tommorow. | ||||
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Tbkahuna 03:11:58 Sat Aug 11 2012 Offline 1671 posts BBMG MASTER BLASTER +1000 Reply |
Sorry you had a setback like that.
If the cut in the trace was not wide and wasn't too close to an adjacent one, I would just make sure it was clean and shiny and touch a drop of solder across it. TBK | ||||
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 22:59:13 Fri Aug 10 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
Ok, so moving onto my first mistake.
I used too much crazy glue. The glue in effect, melted my buttons a bit, or expanded them at the base. I had left them on the cellophane plastic cutout template, I wanted a good seal so I put lots of glue, I think that's what caused expansion. They puddled out at the base, which I didn't notice, yet. I let it dry, then affixed it inside my reciever frame with more crazy glue to hold in place. This is when I found out the buttons has expanded or bulges out at the base, because they didn't sit flush inside the reciever anymore. I still had the cellophane template behind it, but it was sticking out a few mm from the sidewall. Now my SergeyBoard was already a crazy extremely tight fit before. When marking plotting out points, it didn't sit totally flush, it's hard to pop in and out. So I just aligned the front edge facing the button holes so those would be tight. Now because my buttons expanded do and my cellophane stuck out so much, I had even more increased difficulty trying to fit it past it, and into the slot. It clicks nicely when in the correct position, and i was getting no clicks. so i had to use a flathead screwdriver to put pressure on the board to push it into final resting place. remember, all holes done, button and button template inserted, this was the final time i was expecting to install the board. the stock one fit so tight, i had to pry it out. the pcb board was bending so much too, i was worried to snap it in half. so i didnt want to put extreme pressure on the whole board to force it in, i tried bit by bit, corner by corner. Anyhow, I ended up having to pull it out anyways to my frustration, and had to peel of the template and pull out the buttons. it was not working good, only the front button was clicking right, the other two felt pressurefit or not aligned so they didnt have free motion forward and back, with a hearty click. they kinds had a mush in feeling, and then stay st [ Continued ] View Rest Of Post | ||||
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 22:19:45 Fri Aug 10 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
Hello all!
I have continued on my journey, and I have learned a lot. I have made some mistakes, some smaller than others, but I will get to that in chronological order. First off, I have to say, if you have a few drill bits and a square hand file, anyone can do the square lcd window cutout. As I did like camracer, basically worked a way smaller square than required, and I used a hand file to slowly push out the four walls. By four walls I mean the edges, and by pushing, I mean sanding to remove material. I know, weird terminology, but it describes the motions clearly. I did a rough drill of 4 small holes in the shape of a square and proceeded to drill out the center until I had the ugliest looking gouge hole ever. At this point, I used a rougher file to take off more material faster, but always followed through with the square edge file after removing a mm at a time. What I did due to the file size and shape, is work on the longer walls, the top and bottom. The smartest way to do it is align the bottom edge first. Once thats perfect placement, you can do the two sidewalls and 'push' them out with the file, mm by mm, until the screen is cleared. Some people want a small window, some people want just the lcd to show, either way it's up to your discretion. I ended up not rounding the corners, it's just a square cut out. I doubt I can do a good job with a flush fit plexiglass pressed in, so I will probably do a recesses mount in the very narrow space between the lcd and the reciever frame wall. But I'm going to leave it just open for now until I can actually find some small piece of plexiglass, hard to find smoked it seems, especially if you just need 1" x 1" piece, actually less, more like 14mm x 22mm. If you didn't opt for a large window that is. So when you peer closely with a microscope and fine tooth comb, you can notice its hand done, but oh well. It's near perfect, I have no scratchmarks as uncovered it with labels, you c [ Continued ] View Rest Of Post | ||||
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