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28 people online in the last 60 minutes - 2 members, 1 anon and 25 guests. (Most ever was 121 at 02:27:28 Wed Oct 19 2011) camracer :: green_dots |
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AnotherCanadianDrozd 19:53:20 Thu Aug 9 2012 Offline 82 posts BBMG Colonel Reply |
Okay, so my gun is disassembled now, it took a minute or two to figure out. This design is very minimal and economical. I appreciate not a gazillion screws to lose. Actually. The magazine seems to have more hardware than the gun, go figure.
Ok so instead of using a computer program to draw a template I just did it by hand with a ruler and pen. As I mentioned using the magazine plug jack hole as a reference point makes the whole prep for the install much easier. Now what I did next, could simply be done on masking tape and affixed into position. But I used adhesive labels, like the type for addresses on envelopes and I drew a cross or plus sign first, in reverse, so the cross or pen lines was on the reverse or sticky side. I aligned this + with the O. Basically the "O" is the empty circular hole of the jack plug, once you remove the board behind it. And I put the + perfectly in the middle of the O circle. Now what you should have, is a lower Reciever, with the hole for the magazine plug covered by an X, or in our case it's a plus sign, or cross, vertically oriented +. Get me so far? I took pics but they are 5mp off my tablet, I don't know how to shrink to attach yet, so I will use words for now, pictures may hopefully follow, I did take them. Ok, so then I drew a horizontal long line, to be my baseline where I would mark the button positions. I also drew a perpendicular line straight up from this baseline, and at the 5mm mark, I made another mark, parallel the baseline. This mark is used to align with the + in the O. Basically once you align both + on top of each other, it will be the PERFECT spot, distance, etc the button holes need to be, as suggested, drill pilot holes smaller to verify location, and you can make minor adjustments if needed from there, but this method should be bang on. It looks perfect pre-drilling right now. Now time to mark out the LCD. My address labels are short so I needed to use two. I drew another long horizontal line to be the baseline, basically to line up and match with the previous address label stickers placement precisely. Then I drew another line exactly parallel but 1mm below, as the LCD screen resides 1mm lower than the centerpoint of each button hole. I use the top baseline to matchup with the other baseline, basically like lining up or matching wallpaper. You make the graphics line up seamlessly with wallpaper install. That's what the + and baseline horizontal is used for, alignment and positioning. And then from the magazine plugs center, measured on the baseline, I marked 55mm and 77mm for the bottom edge of the screen. Marking 14mm above both the 55mm and 77mm mark, finishes the square or rectangle that needs to be cut out to display the LCD screen. It was really easy to do, less than 5 minutes, that's why I'm not gonna make a template anymore unless someone really needs or wants one, as all my measurements and methodology are listed above as to how to get to the plotting of points to drill out. The next step is drilling, so I am going to do the three buttons holes on a drill press and clamp the Reciever below so I don't mess up. Usually only wood or metal may catch or turn if the workpiece isn't secured down, but I don't want to chance it with plastic anyways even though it's softer. As well I had wanted to protect the top surface with a layer of masking tape, but using a label it doubles as both a guide, and protective layer. Kinda like the peel off layer on plexiglass. So I am off to do the first three holes drilling, but right now I may do some more reading on old threads. I have everything marked out, but again tips and techniques from others has proved invaluable to me, so that's why I also take the time to post up how I did it, maybe someone else will find it helps them too. Glad I have all your help in this install, but it seems the more minutes I have my Drozd apart, the more comfortable I feel with this mod. When my first feeling was oh no, oh no, shoot the metal o rings fell out. I'm gonna forget how this goes back together, I better get this back in one piece ASAP! Now I realize its just holes you gotta cut, two wires to solder, really. I remember reading a lot about people saying to move the solenoid forward, that specific model can also be done before you resolder the wires back on I think. Which brings me to a question, but I shall ask it in another thread to maintain congruence of this thread, and to keep it short, without growing into a superthread with numerous questions to get lost in, due to questions unrelated to the thread title. Thanks for reading, hope this helps. If your really clueless or unsure, I could even mail you out a prepared address label template to stick on your own reciever for your mod, but I may wait til I have spare magnets, so I could send them both out at the same time to anyone who want or needs both of them. If unclear still, I will try to post pics after I learn how to shrink them, then all of this should make a lot of sense. | ||||
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