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ropedonkey
11:20:57 Sun
Oct 5 2008

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Outdoor Climber

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rebolted climbs at grotto

Since the weather was crud sat and sunday, boredom played a big part of getting "girls in the hood" and "squeeze my cheese" rebolted. But the real reason was i always wanted to climb them, and the bolts put me off.. any suggestions for getting the old bolts and fixed hangers out, they are about 15 years old and quiet rusty.

  
tnd
10:27:35 Mon
Oct 6 2008

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Re: rebolted climbs at grotto

Try a socket and long extension and shear them off.

  
ropedonkey
10:33:03 Mon
Oct 6 2008

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Re: rebolted climbs at grotto

ok will do...
has anyone used the hilti glues re 500 or hy 150

  
hatman
05:48:53 Tue
Oct 7 2008

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Mood Now: Overworked
Post Mood: Adventurous

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Re: rebolted climbs at grotto

a good trick depending on the type of bolt (and the new bolt type) is to drill your new hole next to the old and noc the old one out that way, then fill the whole lot up with glue. Bit late for that now.

  
oldandbroken
21:12:53 Tue
Oct 7 2008

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Onsight Soloer

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Re: rebolted climbs at grotto

Don't know about Girls in the hood but I think it maybe the same as squeeze my cheese and the bolts are rawl expansion bolts. There is a chance that the bolt will undo from the casing and leave the casing stuck in the rock. Might be best to loosen a little then lever out. Alternatively Hatmans suggestion is a good one as it sound like your replacing with glue ins. The casing if left in rusts away and eventully will leave rust marks running down the cliff, also you won't be able to reuse the hole.

  
mikl
03:43:31 Wed
Oct 8 2008

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Flash Specialist

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Re: rebolted climbs at grotto

They will either be Graham Hill's glued in long coach bolts (take a variety of spanners and sockets in the 12 to 16 mm and imperial also range as these are quite hard to undo, but will totally come out of the hole)

OR Rawl bolts, these will be a bit easier to undo (I think they are a half " or 13mm head) but will normally leave the sleeve in place. I have read that using the bolt to knock the cone back intt the hole may loosen the sleeve , which you can then remove if it's not too rusted (needle nosed pliers). You can also hammer in one point of the sleeve which will collapse it, and then it can be pulled. Drilling nearby will probably make a bigger mess as the bracket keeps you away from the hole
.
Then re-use or fill the hole with a cap of glue to stop seepeage

  
mikl
03:44:53 Wed
Oct 8 2008

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Re: rebolted climbs at grotto

that's half inch head fro the Rawl

keep up the good work - I wasn't inspired by the Rawl bolts on Hide the Salami that you helped me replace
mikl

  

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