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4 people online in the last 15 minutes - 0 members, 0 anon and 4 guests. (Most ever was 74 at 04:51:16 Sun Oct 28 2012) |
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dwebster 06:16:38 Sun Feb 18 2007 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
hello, I'm not much of a new route bolter (more of a wanna be really), but I was wondering why some folk put a shakle/twistie on one of the lower off rings? Also, I was wondering what is used to make sure that the pin doesn't loosen and come out. I only ask becasue the one at the top of "Bummagedon" at Mt K (a great route by the way, thaks Rod!) accidentally came apart rather easily yesterday. Or are they meant to so that they are easily replaced? Thanks. Yours ignorantly.
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Cragx 08:20:15 Sun Feb 18 2007 Offline 2051 posts Administrator Mood Now: ![]() Post Mood: ![]() Reply |
I generally stagger them them with one higher than the other...the shackles is on the top...the idea is the with the shackle being loaded it stops alot of the sideway tension on the rings plus allows for easy replacment as the shackle wears since it taking the majority of the load/wear......the lower ring is the backup incase said shackle fails....
I personally make sure they are tightend before using, but then again I walways double check any lower offs before using em...call me paranoid. You could always put lock tight or something on em....i thus far havent as I have none....or use wire to tie em on...but Im to lazy for that. Glad ya likedthe route though |
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thesimplepilot 09:45:10 Sun Feb 18 2007 Offline 244 posts Onsight Specialist Reply |
also be aware that if the shackle is threaded so the rope is rubbing over the pin in the direction of the thread it might cause the pin to undo itself.
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dwebster 06:52:12 Fri Feb 23 2007 Offline 90 posts Lead Climber Reply |
Thanks fellas. Makes sense.
I'll have to be more careful to check my lower offs too. Cheers. |
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jack_lasportiva 10:16:57 Mon Mar 12 2007 Offline 10 posts Indoor Bumbly Reply |
I heard the comment that loctite will make the replacement of the shackle a pain. Loctite can fail also, and not easy to inspect visualy. That's why I'll use wire to secure the shackles I'll install. If it's good for the planes, why not? Not on a sea cliff, tho...
I may put only one shackle if one bolt is quite higher than the other, that's a good idea. I wanted to contribute by adding quick clips at the top but apparently, they don't last long because a lot of people do not bother lowering off on their quickdraws. Those quick clips are sooooo handy, they should be only used to clean the climb. |
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