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redheckler
05:47:51 Wed
May 30 2007

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8 posts
Indoor Bumbly

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Unsafe botls on Rex Hunts Love Child - Point Perp

I recently posted a couple of messages on climb.org.au regarding unsafe bolts on Rex Hunts Love Child at Point Perpendicular , http://climb.org.au/forum/index.php?action=vthread&forum=9&topic=210

I think these bolts are unsafe and so I suggest you read that post. The main details are copied below also:

Yesterday (29/5) I climbed at Point Perp and had a good chance to inspect the bolts on Rex Hunts Love Child for the first time myself after only being told by others they are dodgey.

All rings, not just on this route, but also on Northern Exposure to the right should be treated with extreme care in my view! The first two rings on Rex Hunts in particular wiggle lots and are at a high risk of pulling out when someone takes a screamer!

Not only have the bolts already failed in that the glue has cracked around the bolt shaft and now the only thing holding them in is friction.

But the bolts were installed upside down (with the weld on the up side) and about a 10mm gap between the weld and the rock surface. This means that during a fall there is more more potential for the bolt to bend downwards because a) the lever arm created and torque applied and b) the fact that it is not recessed, or for that matter as the ring is upside down there is nothing at all to stop it bending!

This translates to an outward pull! The bolt may still require a lots and lots of force to pull out, but the risk is there.

Basically I think the climb needs a warning until they are fixed.

I've made plans to replace the bolts this week before the June long weekend. Beware until then.

  
vwills
08:32:35 Wed
May 30 2007

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355 posts
Soloer

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Re: Unsafe botls on Rex Hunts Love Child - Point Perp

Just take lots of trad gear as there are plenty of decent placements in the lower section where the suspect bolts exist. The upper section is on FHs and they looked OK from memory.
The lower bolts are as mentioned- upside down (unless you are macca) and extruding from the rock. Nice route though!

  
wombly
03:46:49 Thu
May 31 2007

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21 posts
Outdoor Bumbly

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Re: Unsafe botls on Rex Hunts Love Child - Point Perp

The new line to the left of 100 foot slab at narrowneck is also bolted this way...

  

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