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CHUCKAZ
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Flair & jet Elevation ( 14:11:49 MonJan 28 2008 )

I have been running a 5" Keene over & under box with twin 6.5 HP motors for the last couple of years. A friend has told me that I need to flatten out the flair for better recovery. If I flatten out the flair my jet will be out of the water. I was told by several dredgers that the jet must be under water. I guess I'm just confused on how to flatten the flair and keep the jet under water. Help.

  
ausearcher
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 16:50:35 MonJan 28 2008 )

don"t know how you have your box set up, but on mine I just slide the box forward allowing the dregde to run with a flatter angle. thus creating what you are trying to do.

  
socalgold
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 21:32:55 MonJan 28 2008 )

I had one of those for years. I ran a fairly steep box and my venturi was under water. If your box sands up then there is nowhere for the gold to settle out. I dredged a tank a day for 6 or 7 weeks a year for the last 3 years. In 05 I came out with over a pound and a half, 06 I only worked 5 weeks (due to flood)and got 8 oz. 07 I worked 5 weeks and got 10 oz. What's his problem? Oh did I mention it was all fines. My total 1/8"+ for the 3 years was less than an oz. 70% of what I recovered was -20 mesh down to below 100 mesh. Most who saw my box were surprised how steep it was when running, and then last summer I helped 4 others set their boxes like that and they started getting more gold also. This was on the UK claims. Different parts of the river require the box to be set different tho.


  
rlh1946
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 23:06:59 MonJan 28 2008 )

look at the slope on my dredge, gold recover was very good mostly all 20 mesh and 20 minus. Keene 6" 3 stage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/rlh1946/DSCF0961.jpg
[1 edits; Last edit by rlh1946 at 23:07:54 Mon Jan 28 2008]

  
CHUCKAZ
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 21:40:19 TueJan 29 2008 )

Thanks for the answers I will try some different ideas this year.

  
socalgold
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 01:24:53 WedJan 30 2008 )

same slope as my dredge was, worked very well.

  
UncleMark
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 20:15:48 WedJan 30 2008 )

Chuck,

Yes, the jet must be submerged in order for the high pressure water to create a suction on the suction hose side. If you need to reduce the angle at the flare to sluice connection, and raising the flare end brings your jet out of the water, then lowering the sluicebox is the way to go. You might find several advantages to this. Lowering the sluice will reduce the amount of pressure it takes to lift the gravel to that height, which will give you more suction at the nozzle or it will allow you to lower the operating speed of your engine to achive the same amount of suction there by saving fuel.

If sliding the sluice forward levels out your dredge and allows you to raise the flare and keep the jet underwater, that will probably work just fine, just be aware that doing so may make your dredge more prone to submarining in fast water.

Mark

  
socalgold
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 00:08:20 ThuJan 31 2008 )

Mark, you mean to lower the whole box down. You're right as it won't be lifting the material as high out of the water. Trouble is that most don't have the equipment/tools needed to do the transformation. Another advantage to lowering it down is stability for fast water or cross currents. Lower center of gravity.


  
UncleMark
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 19:01:44 ThuJan 31 2008 )

SoCal,
You are right about the bennefits. As far as Chuck not having the right equipment to perform the modifications needed to lower the sluice, I have no idea as he just asked what he could do, and I was just listing the options as I see them. Having spent many hours welding, I take for granted how easy it is for me to make frame modifications.
Mark

  
bitterbob
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 21:38:26 ThuJan 31 2008 )

I had to get away from the other thread...too much political stuff......

Ok, reading what you guys say, and I am not an expert, so to flatten the entire rig out and the sluice loads up, too much angle and effective gold capture is reduced and hydrolic pressue is reduced. However, a little flattening out is desired? The dynamics of keeping flare below water line makes sense. So if I read you guys right, dropping the overall sluice down, whether by welding work, or moving box forward makes a better recovery......?
The picture rlh1946 shows, looks like box is way forward.
Is the pole at the end of the sluice there as a stablizing element to prevent nose from diving, or even side swing?

  
rlh1946
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 22:55:47 ThuJan 31 2008 )

Nope that is my knock plugs out pole, I was using it to stack tails.

  
bitterbob
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 05:17:17 FriFeb 1 2008 )

Gonna have to remember that one.....I presume that tail stacking means to use pole to keep sluice tail over one spot until tailings hit desired height, then relocate the pole and start new tailing pile?


  
CHUCKAZ
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 15:31:55 FriFeb 1 2008 )

Are you talking about cutting and re-welding the frame that holds the box? If so I have Mig welder, chop saw, band saw, lathe etc. equipment is not a problem. Specifics on where to cut and weld I do not have. If you lower the box, how would you adjust for different flow rates for different material types?

  
rlh1946
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 16:58:36 FriFeb 1 2008 )

bitterbob ...you got it right, there was alot more tails than there was places to put it, had to work it just right.
[1 edits; Last edit by rlh1946 at 17:09:12 Fri Feb 1 2008]

  
bitterbob
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 02:50:07 SatFeb 2 2008 )

Realizing as times goes on, that it's the little things.

Thanks

  
CHUCKAZ
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 15:14:11 SunFeb 3 2008 )

I would again like to thank everyone for there input. This thread kind of died before I could get any info on cutting and welding the frame to lower the box. Information and pictures would be helpful.

  
socalgold
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Re: Flair & jet Elevation ( 15:41:13 SunFeb 3 2008 )

Chuck, You just cut and extend the verticle supports to the sluice down the desired length. 2" to 4". Just add the same length to each. Because you have compomised the integrity of the tubing, you may want to butt weld a flat iron piece longer than the addition along the outside edge for strength.

  

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