Volks-Swap :: The Rotary Conversion :: My Conversion Story (Warning: Long Read)

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05:54:52 Mon
Jan 7 2008

2 posts

My Conversion Story (Warning: Long Read)

I will start by apologizing for the length of this post. I have been reading the other post on this forum for over a month (time permitting), and have seen quite a few that are planning to swap a rotor into there VWís. Like any other major modification you need planning, patience, and $$$ if you expect it to work correctly. I for one went head first because at 25 a rotor in my 72 SB was bad ass.
Summer of 95 (oops, I gave away my age) I had just painted my factory sunroof SB bright white, my girlfriend at the time gave me 5 8-spoke empiís, and one of the firsts adjust a struts suspensionís that came to market (I can not remember why I did not marry her). At the time I had a stock DP 1600 with 1.25 rockers, dual 34 ICT, and a dual muffler 1 3/8 header with J tubes. This combo ran fine, and provided 32mpg as a daily driver. I wanted more power, and as a member of the local VW club at the time there were a couple of guys with bored and stroked engines. I enlisted their help in putting together a 2110cc. When all is said and done to make a good turnkey engine I was looking at 5k to 6k for the setup I wanted. Unfortunately that would of put a damper on the peanut butter and jelly budget, not to mention rent, and school. Then at one of the club meets one of the member brought an old copy of VW Trends magazine, and in there was a single picture of a black beetle with a rotor in it. One of the other member said he happened to have a complete 12A rotor lying around, so a plan was hatched. The next day I ordered a Kennedy kit with a 1700lb clutch, and a counter weight. I went to the local junk yard, and picked up a medium radiator (can not remember the car it came from), and waited for the UPS man. Upon arrival I hit up my old man for his mechanical abilities, plus his garage, and his tools, and his free work. We dropped the engine, and started the swap. Taking the flywheel off the rotor, and installing the counter weight, flywheel, and clutch gave us really false hopes that this would be a snap. The rotor was a stock 79 that had never been opened (read many, many miles). On our first attempt at installing the motor we find that the stock oil filter/oil cooler contraption from hell will not clear the firewall. Since the size of this evil piece of s#!t means that a large chunk of firewall needs to modified my father came up with the idea to fabricate a C type mount that the oil would flow within, and the whole cooler/filter thing would hang 180 degrees (filter pointing down) next to the engine. With that out of the way my father fabricated two extra long hood standoffs so that we could place the radiator angled above the passenger side of the engine and clear the electric fan. Installing the engine again reinforced my false belief that I would be tearing the streets up in a couple of days. The electrical system is pretty straight forward so in a couple of days we had the rotor in place and not a single ding on the paint job. I purchased a racing beat exhaust plate, and an electric fuel pump. I took it to a muffler shop, and purchased a nice 3 inch diameter Turbo muffler, and they bent some pipes. The final result was a Y header that was probably no more that two feet in length. Two 2 1/2 inch pipes came from the plate, and within 8 inches merged into one as they bent toward the ground, that pipe then turned 90 degrees towards the front of the car, and then did a 180 towards the back and connected with the muffler. The tip of the muffler barely stuck out under the rear body just to the left of the original exhaust exit. The look of the 3 inch muffler out the back was incredible. A wager was laid as to how loud this thing would be, and as to how long the muffler would last with the total exhaust that short. Now we installed the fuel pump, and wired it up, I hit the key, and the float bowl filled. I crank, and this thing just comes to life, and settles into a butter smooth idle. I won the muffler sound wager as it had a deep, throaty sound that actually reminded me of the dual mufflers on by old engine but with more power. 6 grown men, and I patted each others back and my mother can out with a bottle of champagne. In the celebratory atmosphere no one notice that the oil cooler/filter contraption from hell was leaking oil like a sleeve from my fathers adaptor, and that the temp of the water was sky rocketing. Then someone slips on the oil, and breaks his fall with my passenger side rear fender. It would not have been too bad, but of coarse he was carrying a big metal tool in his hand which broke the tail light assembly, and took off a whole bunch of paint. I sent the fender to be repainted, and ordered a new tail light lens, and assembly. My father added rubber o-rings to all of the connections of his adaptor, and this stopped the oil leak. The overheating was another issue all together. We found that the fuel pump was filling up the float bowls, and kept pumping which caused a cascade of fuel to be dumped into the intake ports, causing the exhaust to glow bright red. I purchased a mechanical fuel pressure regulator, and set it a 4psi since the pump by itself was probably doing 10psi. This corrected the fuel cascade, and helped a little with the temperatures. I thought that maybe driving with the air circulation I would have better luck with the temperatures. I did not, and it over heated quickly, but for those 3 minutes I learned a lot 1) The power delivery was phenomenal, smooth, and right where the old beetle engine ran out of breath (4k rpm) this thing was getting started, 7k was nothing. 2) My stock 4.12 r&p was to low, it would seriously whine at 60, and if you let go off the gas it would slow the car down quickly, which at this time was good because 3) 4 wheel drum brakes on a beetle suck. I got to 100 and tapped on the brakes, and only felt a hint of stooping. The brakes faded, and I thanked the lord we decided to test this thing in an abandoned airstrip. I was forced to drive normally no matter how hard I tried otherwise with the old engine, and this problem never turned up. Finally 4) the fuel line is two thin, and while running the carb will suck it dry. I ordered a set of front disk brakes, and my father installed a thicker fuel line. My brother purchased a 73 SB Sun Bug (yes a real Sun Bug), and he wanted my VW engine. I accepted, and gave him my engine, and 4.12 tranny, and took his 3.88 r&p tranny for my car. So back to testing, with these changes as long as the car was in motion the water temp would stay at around 180-190 without a thermostat. My father decided that it needed more cooling (hindsight: DUH), we I purchased two 10 feet galvanized steel fence post, and a couple of universal hoses, and had the local radiator shop make me a wide but short 2 line radiator that would fit behind the front A/C grill with little modification to the body. We riveted straps to the pan on both sides of the center tunnel to hold the tubes, and ran all of the hoses above the front suspension, and into the front radiator. I also ran a temp gauge from the inlet of the front radiator. In testing I found that the temp would take longer to rise, but ultimately they would rise. If the car was driven humanely it would go all day, but as soon as you hit a traffic jam, or go up a steep incline the temps would sky rocket. Since this was my short jaunt ride, and I mainly drove at night the car was usable, and I knew that any frisky behavior needed to be followed by enough time for all to cool. This lasted 4 months, and one day at the supermarket some guy noticed the protruding oil sump about 5 inches off the ground, and asked to see the engine. His first comment was about the oil cooler/filter contraption from hell, and the second was about the carb getting to much heat from the raw exhaust under it. Here is what I learned, rotors cool themselves in 3 manners, the main coolant is water, second is oil, and third is the fuel in the combustion chamber. Here was the problem as he saw it. First VWís are not aerodynamically designed to route air over radiators, so the radiators would need all of the help they could get. I needed to fabricate a small lip that would protrude at an angle from the A/C grill and scoop air into it, I then needed to fabricate another lip that would hang vertically from the bottom rear of the radiator, and this one would create a low pressure point path for the airflow to follow. Second I needed to stop cooling the oil by water, since my cooling system was already over taxed as it was. I needed a separate method of oil cooling. Third the heat rising from the exhaust was heating the carb which then heated the fuel entering the engine. He suggested that I install some type of divider to keep the hot air from the exhaust away from the carb. After thanking him profusely, and promising to name my first born after him (I did keep my promise), I ordered a 92 plate cooler with a thermostat controlled fan, and inline oil filter adaptor. I then purchased a flat aluminum plate which I cut a 3 by 1.5 foot section. I measured the space between the top exhaust manifold bolts, and folded a lip onto the cut section. I drilled holes at the manifold bolt sections, and used the manifold bolts to hold it in place. It was simply a flat piece of aluminum between the exhaust, and the carb. To the touch this dramatically reduced the carb temps. I then removed the oil cooler/filter contraption from hell, and ran the hoses to the mesa cooler which I rubber mounted under the rear tray at an angle. I cut to two 6 inch high pieces of aluminum that where the length of the front apron, and took them to the body shop for ideals on mounting and for matching white paint. They actually took an old SB apron, and bent the piece perfectly, they folder a lip about an inch wide, and painted black rounded slits that matched the slits already in the apron, and drilled the lip for bolts. They also created rounded end caps and installed the whole thing. No one ever noticed the lip once installed, and needed to be shown that it was actually there. I bolted the other piece to the bottom rear of the radiator, and cut a coupled of pieces of thick plastic which I used to seal (w/ high temp silicone) the surround of the radiator to the body so any incoming air would have to pass thru the radiator to escape. With these changes I finally stopped all temp issues. Actually I had to install an original thermostat since the water temps would dip below 100 degrees while driving. I found that since the volume of water was so large when the thermostat would open the water pump capitates, and the temps would momentarily spike, and then jump back down. I drilled a couple of small holes into the thermostat disk, and the issue never resurfaced. This worked beautifully for a couple of months until I needed to adjust the points on the distributor. Now I have never seen a more complicated piece of s#!t in my life. They have two layers of points, and adjusting then requires surgical precision along with the patience of a tree. Lucky while the adjustment was taking place another customer over heard me spewing filth, and told me that he happened to have a recently rebuilt electronic distributor from a later model RX-7 that just happens to fit perfectly into my engine. I swapped the unused RX-7 5-speed tranny that came with my engine for this distributor, and instantly noticed how bad my old distributor was running. A couple of months later I rebuilt the stock carburetor with all stock parts, and again instantly noticed how bad my old setup was running.
I kept this package stock for 4 years, and logged over 60k miles in that time without so much as a hiccup (I also won the wager on the life span of the Turbo muffler). The car averaged 36mpg, and on the only track day that I visited it ran a 13.5 @ 101.1 and a 0-60mph time of 4.7 seconds. This is with a stock 12A that must have had way more that 200k miles on it. This was a full bodied 72 SB with a full interior, and a complete stereo that included amps and two 12 inch dual coil subs. Remember that this is a straight window SB that has the drag equivalent of a brick. I loved stop light racing, and can still remember those 7K rpm clutch drops. Cars that should have been able to catch me before the mark would quit as soon as they saw was my tail lights, and FAT exhaust pipe. Over that time I collected all of the pieces needed to install an A/C unit, and on my way to the shop I was side swiped by a drunk that ran a red light. The force of the accident broke the engine case, the tranny, and bent the seat I was in. Luckily (even thought it did not feel that way at the time) I limped away with only two broken ribs, and the seat belts burns. Of coarse the drunk was driving a rusty pickup, and was able to speed away. He was caught up the road, and as it was my luck did not two pennies to rub together, so I lost the whole thing which can to about 2.5k, but at least I got 4 good years out it.
Now to the present, I have finally convinced my wife to allow me to begin a project, and if this post is any indication, there should be no doubt as to which direction this project will be going. I purchased a nice 73SB that I will begin body work on. I am still undecided if I want to go Cal Look, or German Look. I will keep every one posted on my progress, in shorter installments.

05:14:40 Sat
Jan 12 2008

15 posts

Re: My Conversion Story (Warning: Long Read)

Nice write up.
Could you post more info on your cooling system?
Pipe size, radiator size or something equal that could be bought?

I also have a '72 SB and would like to swap in a roto with minimal body mods. I'd rather not cut out the spare tire area. See me thread in the cooling section for more info.

Also you ran the stock 4 speed tranny with no mods?
Other than the 3.88 swap.
I have the stock trans with Final Drive 4.125.
Is the trans gonna hold the motor back?
I was thinking of getting the 3rd & 4th welded and installing a heavyduty side plate at a minimum.

Oh and I'm stuffing a 13B from an 89-91.
What kinda power did you make any idea?
[1 edits; Last edit by BrockGrimes at 05:16:45 Sat Jan 12 2008]

18:48:21 Sun
Jan 13 2008

2 posts

Re: My Conversion Story (Warning: Long Read)

Unfortunately you will have to cut into the metal somewhere. I found the easiest and most efficient place was in the spare tire area. That is the only place in which I cut the body. I used 2 inch O/D galvanized steel fence post to channel the water back to front to back. My setup was from engine up to the back radiator, then down under the car towards the front radiator and back under the car to the engine. The front radiator was sealed, and the highest point was the filler cap on the back radiator which made it easy to get all of the air out. I had a pull fan on the radiator in back, and two side by side pull fans on the front radiator all with 175 degree thermo switches. I used two radiators because if you use only one it will need to be pretty large, and the size and placement options on a beetle are limited.

I do not know exactly how much HP my engine made, but I would guess somewhere in the 130 to 140 range. Someone at the track said that I must have at least 175+ to run a 13.5 in the quarter, but I doubt that.

Now about the tranny, and if you ask 5 different people you will get 5 different answers. My choice was made by comfort, and MPGís. I drove A LOT of highway miles so I did not want the engine spinning at 3500rpm at 60, or 4k+ at a normal 70mph cruise. The 3.88 gave me around 2900rpm at 60, and was very quiet. At that speed I had enough reserves so as to not lose any speed while going up inclines, but more importantly I got over 36mpg on the highway, and you can always downshift for brisk acceleration. Rotors are powerful, but if your setup is not right your mileage will dip into the teens quickly, and they can generate some serious heat. My power fix came from stop light races, which was excellent since bug trannys have super low 1st and 2nd gears. Running start races are no fun since you lose your takeoff traction, and light weight advantage. Bugs have horrible aerodynamics and straight windshield SBís even more so. The 3.88 I used was from a 73 SB, and was stock. I would imagine that with a 13B the welded 3rd and 4th with HD side plates would be a good idea.

Photo of engine

Diagram of front radiator placement
[1 edits; Last edit by robcy at 19:03:39 Sun Jan 13 2008]

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Nov 8 2016

Re: My Conversion Story (Warning: Long Read)

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